paddyVanW 0 Posted May 9, 2011 Hi all, trying to fix my temp gauge. originally thought must be the blue or black ect sensors so ordered from dealers, however over the weekend borrowed the two sensors from mates polo G40 (same part #'s) and still the gauge not working, now have no idea what problem is Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted May 9, 2011 The gauge itself? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted May 9, 2011 on the VR6 you can bridge 2 of the pins on the yellow sensor... A and C If i recall, or B and D, and it will sent a signal to the guage to check if it works... I'd assume there was a similar test for the G60... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paddyVanW 0 Posted May 9, 2011 Hi Gaz, yeah the gauge itself doesnt read/move at all Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paddyVanW 0 Posted May 10, 2011 on the VR6 you can bridge 2 of the pins on the yellow sensor... A and C If i recall, or B and D, and it will sent a signal to the guage to check if it works... I'd assume there was a similar test for the G60... Hi VR6Pete, the bentley manual specifies using a VW1301 unit to test the gauge, troubleshooting possibilities. Not sure how i can check myself, the G60 only has a blue and black 2pin sensors also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted May 10, 2011 If you've changed the sensors and the guage still isnt moving then i would say its either a wiring issue or the gauges are kaput. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevef182 0 Posted May 10, 2011 If it turns out to be the gauges rather than wiring they can often be fixed; Take the clocks out of the dash and remove the glass. Pop off the needle and unscrew the gauge face and remove. You will see a green tower with a slot down the middle that the needle itself sits on. Next to the tower is a metal strip with wire wound around it, the end of which should sit inside the runner of the green tower..(as the metal strip moves, the tower turns and makes the needle move)..the metal strip can sometimes remove itself from the tower and then obviously the gauge wont work. Pop it back into the runner and put it the cluster back together. Have a quick look, its quite easy! (the rev counter works in exactly the same way) ---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ---------- Edit..this is for a VR6..i presume the g60s work in the same way but i dont know for sure..let me know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paddyVanW 0 Posted May 10, 2011 Hey Gaz, think will have to try and get a garage to check gauge, but starting to think it could be a wiring issue !! nothing ever straight forward, C's eh, who'd av em.lol ---------- Post added at 08:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 PM ---------- Hey Steve, will give that ago and hava look, failing that its onto vw for them to test. Nothing else on dash/gauges is not working so dont think voltage stabilizer problem, poss circuit board or as the pessimist in me thinks a wiring problem!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paddyVanW 0 Posted May 27, 2011 If it turns out to be the gauges rather than wiring they can often be fixed; Take the clocks out of the dash and remove the glass. Pop off the needle and unscrew the gauge face and remove. You will see a green tower with a slot down the middle that the needle itself sits on. Next to the tower is a metal strip with wire wound around it, the end of which should sit inside the runner of the green tower..(as the metal strip moves, the tower turns and makes the needle move)..the metal strip can sometimes remove itself from the tower and then obviously the gauge wont work. Pop it back into the runner and put it the cluster back together. Have a quick look, its quite easy! (the rev counter works in exactly the same way) ---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ---------- Edit..this is for a VR6..i presume the g60s work in the same way but i dont know for sure..let me know. Now then Steve, had the car into local vw specialists, they checked wiring ,sensors etc and advised dash gauge fault! so following your excellent instructions did the deed, bit hesitant pulling needles off so unscrewed face and lifted off, to the sound of a multiple springing noise. dont know if it was out but all were now!! Anyhow with bit of fiddling about and then popping the needles off no problem, managed to get all back together and refitted to car. Went for a drive 18miles and gauge never moved, pulled over and let idle for 10mins and gauge started to move but only got to about70- 75 degrees c, fan kicked in and needle dropped a wee bit. Oil temp went from 86 to 92 then back. Is this not low for a car especially a G60 ?, my golf tdi daily sits at 90degrees at all times. cheers paddy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted May 27, 2011 my g60 sits at about 92-96'C around town,98-104'C when doing about 70-100 mph down the autobahn. The fan kicking in shouldnt really bring the oil temp down that much. Funny i had this problem a month after i bought my rado except my guages worked fine one day,the next the needle struggled to get to 70'c on coolant guage. Changed the thermostat(with genuine one), black temp sensor and ohms tested all the wiring. no faults found. must be something with the guage not working. You gotta love rado electrics!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YoungTg60 10 Posted June 10, 2011 i have a 91 g60 that did the same thing, i change the blue temp sensor and the black one right in front of the motor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snagap 0 Posted June 20, 2011 same probs on my valver ,,changed sensor now dial not working ,,will strip down the clock wed and see if that works :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YoungTg60 10 Posted June 20, 2011 yeah it was the black sensor and it works perfect now. Im having more issues now. RIPPING THE WHOLE INSIDE DASH APART TO FIX WIRING PROBLEMS :cheers: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southie 10 Posted June 25, 2011 If it turns out to be the gauges rather than wiring they can often be fixed; Take the clocks out of the dash and remove the glass. Pop off the needle and unscrew the gauge face and remove. You will see a green tower with a slot down the middle that the needle itself sits on. Next to the tower is a metal strip with wire wound around it, the end of which should sit inside the runner of the green tower..(as the metal strip moves, the tower turns and makes the needle move)..the metal strip can sometimes remove itself from the tower and then obviously the gauge wont work. Pop it back into the runner and put it the cluster back together. Have a quick look, its quite easy! (the rev counter works in exactly the same way) ---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ---------- Edit..this is for a VR6..i presume the g60s work in the same way but i dont know for sure..let me know. Thanks for this, just looked at my VR gauge which had this problem, is working perfectly now :cheers: Glass out Untitled by Steve|Southie, on Flickr Green tower disengaged form the sensor Untitled by Steve|Southie, on Flickr How it should look, all fixed Untitled by Steve|Southie, on Flickr Thats got to be the quickest and easiest corrado fix ive ever done :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites