VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 26, 2011 hi,after abit of advice realy, i wanna have a go at spraying my bonnet, obviously theres no way in hell i can do a finish like the pro's can get, got a base coat kit {LC9Z} with 2k lacquer, my bonnet has had a spray can repair which was down to bare metal.The previous owner pulled off a glued bonnet scoop which left a ring which i filled and leveld with primer then colour as a temporary measure. Am i going to have to apply a sealer once iv sanded it down? then a primer on top of the sealer? im thinking the basecoat will react with the spray can repair if i spray on top of the old paint? thanks..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 26, 2011 I'd def remove all traces of the can repair, then fill and prime as needed, no reason you can't get a good finish if you take your time. I'd do a half primer half colour blow over to see where the high and low spots are too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 26, 2011 would this be right? sand down as much as possible, remove old primer, fill in old primer section, block sand level useing guide coat then basecoat on top,then lacquer? cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) are you doing this with a can or gun? if your on a gun and that ring is just down to the primer, i would go over that with a sander to remove any flakey bits , then key the whole lot to be painted with 600 grit,etch prime any bear metal,then high build prime using the primer to fill that in rather than filler,then flat away until the whole lot is level. Edited June 26, 2011 by tim20vt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 26, 2011 this is how it was when i first got it,it was down to bare metal, then i filled it in with high build primer and primer from a can and a colour matched can, but now iv brought a compressor i want to do the job properly with a spray gun :) so looks like iv got to remove all trace of the spray can primer before i can do anything. ---------- Post added at 05:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:06 PM ---------- which primer would i use with base coat paint? i see 2k primers, cellulose primers but non listed for basecoat paints? im guessing idd be safe with either of these? heres the kit iv brought, btw my car isnt a standard corrado colour,hence why iv brought LC9Z http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280620898259&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted June 26, 2011 What on earth were they thinking with a bonnet scoop like that :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 26, 2011 What on earth were they thinking with a bonnet scoop like that :lol: lol i know,it was a subaru scoop aswell,also had a subaru style drain pipe exhaust which did it no good!!, i rescued this car from an otherwise unhappy life, just got to sort this bonnet mess out....guess i could be greatful they didnt cut into the bonnet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 3, 2011 well so far so good,i did a test peice to see if my basecoat reacts with the primer i used on the repair and its all good! so thats going to save me a shed load of time! started the underside today,heres a before shot and after,still needs lacquer though, got a feeling im going to mess it up though :( got one big ish run,im going to sort that tomo when its atleast dryed properly, crappy pic i know,but iv only got my phone camera.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) looking good mate,do you have a run in the basecoat? if so you may find that you dont want the basecoat to be appearing wet,so apply light coats letting each one flash off rather than blasting base coat on, you would have to be going heavy to get runs in base coat,also depending what make/type of base coat you may only have a certain amount of time to apply the clearcoat for it to bond to the base. what are your materials? Edited July 3, 2011 by tim20vt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) just looked at the tin, it doesnt say anything about what brand it is, it has a label which has been printed off from the company i brought it from, just says industrial basecoat, vw blck magic LC9Z etc etc, the lacquer though seems to be kapci?http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280620898259&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT hers a link to it, yea with the run im not gona lie, i was trying to hide something lol i didnt want to spend all day preping the underside :( yea its in the basecoat,the black in the first photo is spray can black from a previous owner, not to get confused with the new paint.my car used to be white and seems to be decently done in metalic black. Edited July 3, 2011 by VW_OwneR_85 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted July 3, 2011 ah sound,i arnt a painter but i have done alot of cars so i may be able to help or im sure a painter will advise. the base coat is thinned 1/1 so you want to lay base coat on letting all the thinner flash off at every coat so it always appears dry it will never cover any marks in your primer,going heavy will make the metalic patchy.getting it realy wet will increase your chances of reactions as the solvents get trapped. once thats layed on and appears dry then i have always gone straight on with the clear,same applies if you jet it on your going to run,you lay on some light misting coats/grip coats slowly building up to final passes,you have to let the clear start to tack off as your building coats.i normaly can feel it going tacky,if i stick my finger on a masked part i can feel it sticking rather than just been wet. id wear a good mask mate 2k isnt good for you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 3, 2011 nice 1, its a 2k lacquer kit iv got aswell with standard hardner,do you know roughly how long iv got to get it out my gun before it starts going off?, thought i had a good enough respirator for this basecoat but tbh i feel a little light headed :) probably best i get something abit better for the 2k,this is what i used,clearly not good enough for the basecoat. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390298576080&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) i have never had it go off in the gun to be honest i dont think u will have a problem with that, when i just did my whole shell i just mixed enough clear at a time. it will obviously set in your gun if you leave it overnight so you need to get the gun clean after,to give you an idea i have to do my sunroof tmrw night,i recon it will take me an hour tops from basecoat to finished. i havnt realy used anything exept airfed masks 2k is pretty lethal,a charcoal one may work but i also wear a suit as it can get in to you blood through your skin. they sell these on ebay-like i said never used one Gerson 2K Disposable Paint Spray Respirator Face Mask i think you will find the 2k to be far worse than the base if you breath it in or it goes near your eyes. Edited July 3, 2011 by tim20vt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 3, 2011 ah cool, not cool on the mask situation though,got tuesday to friday off work for my bonnet,so i need to get something good tomo,tbh i think idd be prety fooked if i had used this mask with that 2k..cant realy afford to spend much though ,thought about buyn a military gas mask, you can get them with new sealed filters, surely if they can with stand nuclear bio chemicals, isosynates or however its spelt shouldnt be a problem.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tim20vt 0 Posted July 3, 2011 your local paint supplier mite have something? like i say always had an airfed one so i just throw that on along with gloves etc, so cant realy advise on the mask situation ,good luck with the bonnet if you take your time im sure you will get a decent job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted July 4, 2011 smoothed off that run i had then blown over with paint so i got that sorted, shot the lacquer just before but got a few nasty runs as i used a different gun so i wasnt used to it{mainly pressure differance,even though i did a test peice on card im not used to judgeing lacquer},this is only on the underside, i got used to the new gun half way through doing the underside,got a good feeling its gona turn out ok though, just letting that lacquer dry then tomo i'll flip it over and do the top side, then sand out and buff them runs, theres a few little bits of airborn dirt on the top of the lacquer but i cant help that as i dont have a medicaly clean enviroment,i upgraded my mask/respirater lol basicaly wrapped a t shirt over my respirater, abit dodgey but its worked great cant smell paint etc! hopefully the top should be a doddle as its smooth theres no reinforcment bars to paint around/judge etc,only thing im worried about is the lacquer is still tacky so its got more chance of airborn dirt getting stuck to it,normaly how long does it take to get touch dry? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites