Jump to content
vw_john

What the hell is this!!

Recommended Posts

I open my engine bay and see this, just bought the car so i want to put it back to origional i dont like how there is a bolt shoved in a pipe thats been jubilee clipped together, i think it may have something to do with the whistle i can hear sometimes. and maybe something to do with a 'dump valve' someone has fitted, anyway, anyone know where it goes or can shine some light on this? cheers.

2wd0xs8.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am presuming that's a G60, and if so the carbon cannister will have been removed along with all the associated pipework. Neatens up the engine bay hugely, and to be honest is a good thing to remove as it removes loads of potential leak points. This is the common way of blocking off the tube coming from the rear of the underside of the throttle body. G60's shouldn't have dump valves, do you have any wider pictures of the whole bay so we can see what else has been chnaged (most likely the boost return has been blanked off).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh righty, well when I pinch that pipe. the whistling pitch changes. thought it was unusual, and yeah its a g60. ill go get a wider picture now.

 

---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:24 PM ----------

 

23ti4v7.jpg

34hj284.jpg

 

sorry about the dirty bay lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As what JMC said.. That pipe goes to the throttle body and was for the charcoal canister which normally sits in that cut out under the airbox (you can just see it bottom left of your photo's).

 

From the factory there is a pipe which goes from the throttle body to the ISV/cam cover breather/supercharger. With G60's you can blank off the return on the supercharger.. if you look to the right of your supercharger you have a small black pipe which is not original. That should go to a filter or something in theory; follow it and see where it leads. Your ISV has a small filter which is non standard which also suggests you have the return blank fitted.

 

Finally your throttle body will have a bare outlet not fastened to anything on the underside if you have the return delete fitted. That's where your 'woosh/whistle' is coming from.

Edited by P3rks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to add to EO's comment. You have a pipe going from the breather on the rocker cover to the right hand side of the charger. Normally there would be a hard plastic pipe from the underside of the throttle body, coming round past the breather (and connecting to it) coming all the way to the front of the engine bay and attaching to the charger on th right hand side. At the moment the bottom of your thottle body will be open to the atmosphere. On idle air passes over a small pipe in the bottom of the throttle body (which has that lenght of tube with a bolt in it) and then out a big hole in the bottom of the throttle, as you grip the pipe with the bolt in it you change its length and as air passes over it it makes a different noise. Personally I have tried this mod, it made no difference to my power and just annoyed me with the constant whistle on part throttle

 

Oddly enough you still have a load of the piepwork associated with the carbon canister, even though the pipe at the top is blanked off with a bolt.... Also running an induction filter without a heatshield wont be doing you any favours as it'll be picking up warm air from the engine bay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

right guys cheers for all your information, and the brake fluid reservoir was empty when i got the car, so i filled it back up it took 250ml+ to get it just under max, i think its just abit grubby though cause you cant see the brake fluid line from the outside. also, how do you change the coolant, im pretty sure the dick before me has just used water. and also where is the temp sender as my temperature gauge wont read over 90 degrees. and JMC do you know what parts i can take off then if they are unneccisary? and yeah i know about the induction, but he didnt still have the box, theres not much i can do about it now =[

cheers guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To change to coolant just undo the bottom radiator hose/waterpump hose and let it drain. Reconnect and then re-fill.. Let the car warm up a little with the expansion tank off and the fan on full/hot and squeeze all the pipes to remove any air locks. Try and use OE G12 coolant from TPS/VW/online. It's only like £6 odd a bottle.

 

Whilst you're at it you could double check there are no coolant leaks, change the thermostat and the expansion tank cap for good measure.. You have a black expansion cap which are known to fail and have since been replaced by a blue one (£9 from TPS).

 

Regarding the temp sensor if you look at the flange on the front of your head there are two plugs/sensors. Ones blue (for the ECU coolant temp) and ones black (for your dashboard coolant temp).. But saying that you shouldn't really be seeing over 90degrees anyway. Even if I nail mine I'll struggle to get over that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

where is the thermostat on the g? on my old mk3 golf it was a pain to get to.

sorry i meant 70 degrees! and another what is this question.. is this the carbon canister and can/how do i get rid of it?

s1579e.jpg

its not connected to anything at the bottom and it came from the circle hole in the bottom left of the pic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the carbon canister.. You can remove that. You can block off one of those black pipes but keep one open. they are for the breather/return for the fuel tank. So the breather needs to stay open. You can also remove all that pipework from the drivers side suspension turret (sits in between your induction kit and turret on your engine bay pics).. I'm unsure what to do with the pipework though, as in which needs blocking off etc as mine was already done when I bought the car. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly.

 

Regarding your coolant temps, have you checked your thermostat is working? From cold the thermostat should be shut, so the top rad hose will warm up first and the bottom rad hose will stay cold until the thermostat opens, then it warms up. If the bottom hose warms up the same time/speed as your top hose it means your thermostat is stuck open. likewise if it stays cold for ages and ages it means it's stuck shut.

 

Oh, and the thermostat is under the waterpump where the plastic u-bend is.. basically bottom corner of the engine closest to the drivers headlight. It's a pain to get to as you have to remove the powersteering pump.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a thread on here from the early days of the forum which has a diagram on it of what pipes need disconnecting. Like EO mine was done when I got it so I can't say for certain what you need to remove. Of course it depends on how original you want it - originally it had the carbon cannister. Are you near to the south coast - best thing is to go along to someone like Gwerks or JMR (John Mitchell Racing) and get them to remove it all, or atleast have them watch while you remove it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...