Looking after new paint help?

[Pete 0]

Any of you guys into detailing? There is a confusing amount of guff on the web, and sites like detailingworld are too vast to trawl easily, but I want to know the best way to protect my paint with the car having a full repaint in red.

 

I have used clays in the past and would imagine that might help, but is there:

 

1. An order in which to do stuff?

2. A recommendation on products for each job?

 

Cheers,

Pete.

[tony_ack 0]

Your wax layer offers protection - clay is a decontaminant and polish removes light scratches/swirls/imperfections/oxidisation

 

Beyond selecting a good, durable wax, improving your washing method is one of single best things you can do to protect your paint. Make sure you're washing by hand with a soft microfibre or lambswool mitt, using one soap bucket, and another bucket to rinse the mitt after each wipe of the car. A grit guard helps in the second bucket. I also invested in a power washer and snow foam lance, which I use as a pre-wash if it's really mucky. The snowfoam clings to the car for 10 minutes or so and loosens the dirt from the paint, making it come off easier when you hand wash.

 

Dry with a good microfibre towel, a waffle towel is a favourite, but make sure it is a little damp, as I always found a slightly damp towel picks up water better. If you get a big towel, then I lay the towel on the car a section at a time, pat down and remove. Not only is it faster than wiping, but it also avoids dragging the towel over the paint. Make sure you wash the top of the car first, and do the bumpers, arches, and bit under the side rub strips last as they are dirtiest. I also like to have a third bucket of soapy water for the wheels.

 

On a full detail, I would go snowfoam, rinse, hand wash, rinse, dry, clay, rinse, dry, polish, wax. Some people use glaze but I never really got the hang of it, but basically glaze is a pre-wax cleanser sometimes with slight cutting properties that can enhance the shine.

 

Claying is recommended every 6 months, though if you've just had a respray, claying will not be needed. Polish when you're paint gets too swirly for you to put up with, and wax whenever water no longer beads on the paint when it rains (anything from 2 weeks to 6 months depending on the climate and quality of wax).

 

BTW I'm not a detailer, so some may have better advice!!

 

---------- Post added at 12:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 AM ----------

 

Oh and if you ever drop any of your mitts/cloths/towels on the floor, chuck it in the wash pile and get another - do not keep on using it!!!

 

---------- Post added at 12:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 AM ----------

 

Oh and if you ever drop any of your mitts/cloths/towels on the floor, chuck it in the wash pile and get another - do not keep on using it!!!

[GCDG60 0]

Your wax layer offers protection - clay is a decontaminant and polish removes light scratches/swirls/imperfections/oxidisation

 

Beyond selecting a good, durable wax, improving your washing method is one of single best things you can do to protect your paint. Make sure you're washing by hand with a soft microfibre or lambswool mitt, using one soap bucket, and another bucket to rinse the mitt after each wipe of the car. A grit guard helps in the second bucket. I also invested in a power washer and snow foam lance, which I use as a pre-wash if it's really mucky. The snowfoam clings to the car for 10 minutes or so and loosens the dirt from the paint, making it come off easier when you hand wash.

 

Dry with a good microfibre towel, a waffle towel is a favourite, but make sure it is a little damp, as I always found a slightly damp towel picks up water better. If you get a big towel, then I lay the towel on the car a section at a time, pat down and remove. Not only is it faster than wiping, but it also avoids dragging the towel over the paint. Make sure you wash the top of the car first, and do the bumpers, arches, and bit under the side rub strips last as they are dirtiest. I also like to have a third bucket of soapy water for the wheels.

 

On a full detail, I would go snowfoam, rinse, hand wash, rinse, dry, clay, rinse, dry, polish, wax. Some people use glaze but I never really got the hang of it, but basically glaze is a pre-wax cleanser sometimes with slight cutting properties that can enhance the shine.

 

Claying is recommended every 6 months, though if you've just had a respray, claying will not be needed. Polish when you're paint gets too swirly for you to put up with, and wax whenever water no longer beads on the paint when it rains (anything from 2 weeks to 6 months depending on the climate and quality of wax).

 

BTW I'm not a detailer, so some may have better advice!!

 

---------- Post added at 12:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 AM ----------

 

Oh and if you ever drop any of your mitts/cloths/towels on the floor, chuck it in the wash pile and get another - do not keep on using it!!!

 

tony's method sounds spot on, just for some more info on waxes etc. for polish i'd recommend Auto glym super resin polish, wax: poorboys world natty paste wax and for a detailer (tops up shine on existing wax between waxing and after washing) meguiars ultimate quik detailer. These are very affordable products that do a great job!

[C5 OEM 0]

All of the above is good advice,another one of improving your drying method is to spray quick detail on the car before using your micro fibre to dry off..

[Pete 0]

Thanks guys!

[CazzaVR 0]

Good advice above.

 

With mine, I'm going to give it some Chemical Guys Jetseal 109 on top of the new paint, then some hard wax.

 

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/chemical-guys-jet-seal-109/prod_484.html

[GCDG60 0]

used jetseal 109 last week, amazing stuff! two coats then some good wax and looks sweet!

[Pete 0]

Just placed my order on the cleanyourcar site:

 

Jetseal 109 and XXX wax.

Some applicators and MF cloths and a mitt.

 

I have a small vat of Meg's gold class shampoo in the garage still.

 

Should have the car back on Friday so is it best to start right away or give the paint time to harden?

[CazzaVR 0]

I would leave it a couple of weeks.

[Pete 0]

Cheers,

 

Will be sticking it in the garage as much as possible in the meantime!!!

[Jim Bowen 1]

I would leave it a couple of weeks.

 

i've heard this before, something about not sealing the paint with wax/sealant too soon after a respray, not sure how true it is though

[4eyes2wheels 0]

---------- Post added at 12:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 AM ----------

 

Oh and if you ever drop any of your mitts/cloths/towels on the floor, chuck it in the wash pile and get another - do not keep on using it!!!

 

---------- Post added at 12:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 AM ----------

 

Oh and if you ever drop any of your mitts/cloths/towels on the floor, chuck it in the wash pile and get another - do not keep on using it!!!

 

I heard you the first time!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Is that Jetseal 109 stuff enough to do a large estate? Doesn't look like a very big bottle and you need to apply it twice? I must admit it does sound impressive, despite the "Developed exclusively for the aerospace industry" bullschitt cliche :D

 

And is this any good, or should I stick to Gliptone? - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/interior/sonus-leather-care-kit/prod_39.html

[tony_ack 0]

I heard you the first time!

 

Some things are so important, they have to be said twice!!

(not a double-post error at all.... :-) )

[CazzaVR 0]

Is that Jetseal 109 stuff enough to do a large estate? Doesn't look like a very big bottle and you need to apply it twice? I must admit it does sound impressive, despite the "Developed exclusively for the aerospace industry" bullschitt cliche :D

 

And is this any good, or should I stick to Gliptone? - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/interior/sonus-leather-care-kit/prod_39.html

 

Looks the same quantity as the one I bought last year. I've done two cars (Corrado + vRS estate) with it and still got around 2/3 left! Really good stuff. Next time I use it, I'm going to stand it in a bucket of hot water first, as it's activated by the heat produced by polishing. You can apply it with a machine, but I don't want to take to my new paint with the rotary just yet! :lol: