Just installed my system and have a few questions

[Rams 0]

The protection light is blinking on my JL Audio g4500 4 channel amp. Take out the rca leads and the light goes out.

 

I seem to have base coming through the components/tweeters and thought the cross overs fix this but they are not.

 

I am running a JL Audio sub 10 inch and the comps from the one amp. I have 2 sets of rca leads from the sub out and front out to the amp. Brudges the sub into channel 1 and the comps into 3 and 4. Either way I have tried things I seem to hear a bit of voice sound through the sub.

 

It distorts if the fade is in the centre, put it to the front and turn volume up and it distorts... Something doesnt seem quite right. A friend of mine with better knowledge than me popped round but couldnt work it out. We checked the wiring on the cross overs and all is fine. Originally I had 1 set of rca linked up and it sounded good but the crossover lights were flashing and still had voice coming from the sub. My friend suggested we install another set of leaks for more control but it just doesnt sound right.

The amp is really hot, barely touch it hot and the protection light is blinking, even when gains are very low etc.

I have a 20 amp inline fuse direct from batter and wondered if maybe I need to put a larger fuse into it?

 

Any help on this would be great otherwise, I might have to take it somewhere for them to have a look or to see if any of my items are faulty?

 

Cheers

Rams

Edited January 21, 2012 by Rams

[Abdul 0]

A few questions to help diagnose the problem...

 

What guage is your earth and power cable?

 

How much power (rms) does the amp make?

 

Is the sub wired to 4ohms? I'm assuming your components are 4ohm too?

 

What frequencies have you set your crossovers too on the amp? Are you using the correct hpf and lpf?

Edited January 21, 2012 by Abdul

[Rams 0]

I was hoping you might reply mate... You have a much better idea than me with ICE.

 

I have 4 gauge power and earth

Alpine ida x305s headunit

Rainbow slc 265 NG comps 6.5 inch

 

JL Audio g4500 amp 4 channel

JL Sub 10/w4 i think

 

I think my main inline fuse from battery is 20 amp but might change that as researching has said it should be 50 amp. I have earth the wire to the spare wheel well securing thread at the bottom to the body. Scrapped some paint away and the amp does turn on no problem.

 

I cant seem to reduce the base through the comps, if I fade to rear, i dont get the distortion but I cant crank the volume up. The more fade to front makes it louder but more disortion.

 

I have tried lots of ways in wiring them up, when I used just one set of rca leads and bridged the speaker wires it sounded good but the comps were flashing when the volume was high but no distortion really but music coming out of the sub which we thought would be fixed with he second set of rca's.

 

I havent measured currents etc, will do that tomorrow but could a lower inline fuse be an issue? I read if you have big thick wire it can over power amps, not sure how true that is and other mentions of the inline fuse chucking too mu voltage?>

 

You ask about the sub being 4 ohms, how would I tell? The amp is 80 w rms, 500 w

[robo22sri 10]

Have you earthed your RCA if they have facilty to do so?

 

If they do they will have a small cable on them

 

Are you RCA sets individual sets or pair in one?

 

Have you tried connecting one set at a time?

[Rams 0]

I have insalled 2 new rca leads and used my original rca leads and tried them all. They dont have a seperate earth. Good quality rca leads aswell.Tried connecting one set at a time, with one set coming from the comps, the red protection light didnt come on, plug the sub rca leads in and the flicker begins on the amp protection led. Im wondering if its an amp issue or wiring or both? My friend said its all wired up correctly but he was a bit rusty to it all but following the instructions they look correct. The 4 ohms part, this was mentioned before in a previous post when I was looking to buy what I have now and there seemed to be diffent thoughts on the 4 ohms wiring and 2 ohms. I have the speaker wires in the nomal connection on the sub and think those connections are bridged as standard. Might remove the sub and double check or maybe I need to remove the bridged links from the sub? does that make it 2 ohms?

[robo22sri 10]

You need to check all the speaker cables to the sub, from the amp to the sub box and from the sub box to the amp ;)

 

---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:56 PM ----------

 

briged link on the subs???? you shouldnt need to acutally put a piece of cable into bridge the channels

[Abdul 0]

No probs mate. This is how I'd wire it...

 

RCA front output to front channels for amp and then RCA sub out to the rear channels. If you don't have a sub out

 

Wire the speaker cables as normal for the front + to +, - to - etc then bridge the sub to the rear channels. So use the positive output on one channel and the negative on the other.

 

Now into settings. Set the gain on both the front and rear channels at 1/4.*

 

Now to crossovers, turn all the filters and eq or any loud/bass host features of on the headunit and amp.

 

Ok so now reset them, set the front channels to HPF (high pass filter) and set the frequency to 80hz. Now for the rears; exact same but set the filter to LPF (low pass filter) and once again at 80hz.

 

This should sort out all the problems your having with the sounds comin out the wrong speakers.

 

Now replace your fuse with a 60amp fuse.

 

This should sort out all the issues, pm me for my no and I'll talk you through it of you want.

 

Abdul

[Rams 0]

They were already linked up on the sub from new. Theres a wire linking them and I have attached on the connections that push in to crimp the speaker wire. I was sort of asking if I need to remove the bridged links incase that alters the ohms?

 

Main concern is not being able to fade properly, the cross overs are supposed to do their thing, the sub is fed by the sw out on the headunit, the crossovers on the front outs on the headunit. Sub to amp, crossovers amped and tweeters direct to crossovers. The amped speaker wires connect to the crossovers and bridged.

 

Its quite tricky to describe but will take some pics and post tom if that helps people see what im trying to do. Cheers bud.

[Abdul 0]

Are your settings on the amp as above? Honestly, ive wired about 20 cars now and I've always done the above as far as settings are concerned etc.

 

The W4 comes in both single 4 ohm coil or dual 4ohm. You need to take the sub out of the box and check which it is. If it's dual 4 then you'll have to wire it to 8ohms bridged as the amp will cut out at 2 ohms bridged. This will sound crap though as you'll have less then 100 rms on tap for the sub, if it's single 4ohm (should see just under 200 rms bridged) and its wired to the amp correctly then you've either got a ground issue amongst others (the above) or your amp needs looking at.

 

You've lost me with the bridged links btw, not sure what you're talking about. Either way, do as above, you can't go wrong.

 

I'm assuming you've wired the tweeters and mids correctly to their crossover?

Edited January 21, 2012 by Abdul

[Rams 0]

No probs mate. This is how I'd wire it...

 

RCA front output to front channels for amp and then RCA sub out to the rear channels. If you don't have a sub out

 

Wire the speaker cables as normal for the front + to +, - to - etc then bridge the sub to the rear channels. So use the positive output on one channel and the negative on the other.

 

Now into settings. Set the gain on both the front and rear channels at 1/4.*

 

Now to crossovers, turn all the filters and eq or any loud/bass host features of on the headunit and amp.

 

Ok so now reset them, set the front channels to HPF (high pass filter) and set the frequency to 80hz. Now for the rears; exact same but set the filter to LPF (low pass filter) and once again at 80hz.

 

This should sort out all the problems your having with the sounds comin out the wrong speakers.

 

Now replace your fuse with a 60amp fuse.

 

This should sort out all the issues, pm me for my no and I'll talk you through it of you want.

 

Abdul

 

Nice one!

 

I will text this through to my friends who was here earlier and will tackle it tomorrow morning. Great help buddy.

[Abdul 0]

No probs, pop the sub out the box too so you can check the ohms etc. If it's a dual 4ohm woofer it'll have 4 terminals on it.

[Rams 0]

Seems like its correct, will re check filters etc. Just checked back through what the sub is, its a

JL-Audio-10W6v2-D4.

 

Looking at the sub more closely, there are quite a few terminals there, if your here tom Abdul, will get some pics up.

Will nip to halfords and upgrade the fuse to 60 amp and remove the sub and generally re check.

 

Thanks again

[Abdul 0]

It's a dual4 mate so can only be wired to 8 or 2 ohms.

 

You can't wire it to 2ohms and at 8ohms the sub will be seeing less then 80 rms on music which is useless, I can fart louder.

 

Basic point, you need a new amp, something that'll do about 800-1000 rms at 2ohms to run your sub to its full potential. Then you can bridge the 4 channel and use it on the comps. Some people will say match the amp exactly to your sub so as your w6 is 600 rms get a 600 rms amp but that's just bs as that amp will never make that power on music or at 12-13v generally. I'd suggest something that does about 1/3 more power then what your sub is rated at. Obviously if you never really give your system any stick then around 500rms will do. I personally gave my 10w6v2 1k rms and it did just fine.

 

Right now if your sub is at 8ohms your probably pushing your amp too hard trying to get some decent bass, if it's at 2ohms your will simply go into protect as soon as you crank it.

 

So ultimately you need another amp for the sub but for he one being wire it to 8ohms. Get some pics up of how you've wired it.

Edited January 21, 2012 by Abdul

[Rams 0]

Hi Abdul

 

In the end I removed the sub and took your advise. Changed the in line fuse to 60 amp, just left the comps connected through the amp and the protection light stopped blinking. I am now on the look out for a decent amp and it will give me time to cover the mdf floor.

 

Heres how the sub was connected, in terms of how it was sent with the wires already bridged.

 

Cheers

Rams