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HummuH

Rear Spoiler - possible to fix "up" with no motor?

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Hi Guys,

 

I need to replace the big gay rear wing on my racing Corrado with the OEM spolier. I've sourced an OEM spoiler and motor assembly.

 

My question is, is it possible to "fix" the spolier in the raised position without installing the motor assembly and structural bar?

 

If I could do that, I would make a slight weight saving over the wing that's currently on the car.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

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Not quite sure what you mean, is there no motor or anything at the moment? is it just inserted in the holes without any support?

 

If that is the case then no, there is no way of holding it up unless you wedge something in place. If you put the mechanism back in you can raise it without manually by turning the bow tie shaped lever in the middle of it, just need to pull it out then twist it.

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it's just one plastic tube sliding in another (each support) so you could just screw it in place with self tappers.

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Not sure if it was standard but I've got a very early mech in mine (stamped that it was made in W. Germany!) and the 'bow-tie' doesn't act as a manual override - it rotates when extending and retracting, but pulling on it it doesn't click forward like the old mech did to disconnect the motor. Pulling on it really hard just separates the plastic bit from the keyed metal shaft it sits on. Or it could just be broken :lol:

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Not quite sure what you mean, is there no motor or anything at the moment? is it just inserted in the holes without any support?

 

If that is the case then no, there is no way of holding it up unless you wedge something in place. If you put the mechanism back in you can raise it without manually by turning the bow tie shaped lever in the middle of it, just need to pull it out then twist it.

 

Sorry, I should have been clear. OEM spoiler was removed and a generic feckin' huge carbon-fibre rear wing was put in it's place!

 

it's just one plastic tube sliding in another (each support) so you could just screw it in place with self tappers.

 

Excellent! This sounds just the ticket. I was amazed how how stiff/strong the whole assembly was when I unpacked it last night. There must be quite a bit of force exerted downward on the spoiler at speeds so hopefully a few screws will be enough.

 

Thanks for your help guys.

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A slightly longer but neater job -but I always like things reversible, so rather than screws direct into the plastic housing and spolier support, just stick in a suitable disc/washer and metal rod or bar bent to suit - easy as the assembly hasn't been fitted yet.

 

Lift spoiler, and put the rod in each mount to stop it retracting (the marked up photo is diagrammatic, the rod will of course be longer to lift the spoiler to the max, otherwise you'll need a rod above and below the projecting pin, or a bar drilled with a hole to receive the pin at the correct height).

 

No need for the motor or structural bar, just the 2 mounts fixed direct to the u/s boot with the 4 bolts. Suggest you use ss bolts longer than stock and a locknut on the end, otherwise the captive nut may crack the housing at some point in the future. JM2C.

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I'm sure others are thinking this too..... can we see pics HummuH?? I am intrigued!

 

Hi mate some old pictures here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?60297-Hi-all-back-in-a-Corrado

 

Need to take some more and will try to do so over the weekend.

 

---------- Post added at 12:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 PM ----------

 

A slightly longer but neater job -but I always like things reversible, so rather than screws direct into the plastic housing and spolier support, just stick in a suitable disc/washer and metal rod or bar bent to suit - easy as the assembly hasn't been fitted yet.

 

Lift spoiler, and put the rod in each mount to stop it retracting (the marked up photo is diagrammatic, the rod will of course be longer to lift the spoiler to the max, otherwise you'll need a rod above and below the projecting pin, or a bar drilled with a hole to receive the pin at the correct height).

 

No need for the motor or structural bar, just the 2 mounts fixed direct to the u/s boot with the 4 bolts. Suggest you use ss bolts longer than stock and a locknut on the end, otherwise the captive nut may crack the housing at some point in the future. JM2C.

 

Thats great, many thanks for taking the time to do that for me. I'm going to dismantle the whole spoiler assembly this weekend so I can paint it so will have a good look at this also.

 

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.

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hi guys, can anyone tell me how to remove the rear spoiler without haveing to strip everything out,

i see the plastic guides for it do i just split them apart? cheers..

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Depends exactly what you want to do. If you are wanting to just remove the spoiler for painting for ex, then just - Lift spoiler, remove the two hext bolts that hold the actual spoiler to the mount (on the sliding arms), and carefully remove spoiler.

To remove mounts (plastic guides) - youd want to do this for ex if your doing a full clean of the motor and cable assembly, in which case you'd...do the above, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the two rubber encased gaskets down to the bracket mount on the underside (2 per gasket). Undo the long brass nuts/ bolts which hold the bracket mount to the galvanised strucrural bar. Remove the motor and cable sleeves, careful that linear gears don't drop out. Take pics every stage. HTH

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painting and rust repair of the tail gate so i need the spoiler out the way, yea cheers i see what you mean about the hex bolts, didnt realise they were there, makes my life a tadd easier now.. cheers for that

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A slightly longer but neater job -but I always like things reversible, so rather than screws direct into the plastic housing and spolier support, just stick in a suitable disc/washer and metal rod or bar bent to suit - easy as the assembly hasn't been fitted yet.

 

Lift spoiler, and put the rod in each mount to stop it retracting (the marked up photo is diagrammatic, the rod will of course be longer to lift the spoiler to the max, otherwise you'll need a rod above and below the projecting pin, or a bar drilled with a hole to receive the pin at the correct height).

 

No need for the motor or structural bar, just the 2 mounts fixed direct to the u/s boot with the 4 bolts. Suggest you use ss bolts longer than stock and a locknut on the end, otherwise the captive nut may crack the housing at some point in the future. JM2C.

 

Mate, thanks for your help with this. Got the original spoiler fitted at the weekend with two bolts through the housings, fixing it in the "up" position. Worked a treat and very easy to do.

 

Thanks again.

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