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sam2.0

Fiting alternator to 2.0 16v

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My alternator doesn't give any charge, in fact it takes it! So I've got a replacement on its way.

 

I've read a few people saying its easy, 3 bolts and you're done, some guides saying they've had to remove engine mounts and raise the engine :eek:

 

I'm half tempted to take it back to the garage who recently changed the belts (for £15!) and see if they'll do me a good price for the alternator. How long would it take someone who knows what they are doing.

 

Thanks.

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it really is a doddle, just make sure you disconnect the battery first as the live is a permanent connection to the alt.

It really is just a few bolts, two 17mm it pivots on at the bottom and the tension adjuster on the top bracket, then the couple of electrical connections, It's not really and more difficult than changing a battery.

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yep, def, have a go, any questions and post up a pic explaining what you are asking about :)

in fact have a look at it and do that before you start if anything doesn't look obvious to you

 

you'll need a 10mm spanner for battery terminals

17mm spanner or socket for 2 bottom bracket bolts

13mm spanner and a big adjustable spanner for the top tensionner bracket bolt

13mm socket and a 8mm (iirc) for the cables to the alt itself

 

oh, and a bit of WD40 and a good wiggle to free the alt from the bottom bracket when you've removed the 2 17mm bolts

I also like to put a bit of threadlock glue on those when putting back in as they can work loose

Edited by davidwort

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Huzzah its here. Time is limited tonight though, so how long does it take? Obviously I can factor in the mandatory tea break and 'sucking through my teeth for ripping some skin off my hand'.

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PITA

you need to hold the pulley still to undo the big nut holding it on, but not damaging the pulley, much easier to buzz it undone with an air-gun.

a damaged pulley can make a horrible noise, but as long as it runs true and the inner surface the belt runs on is OK then it should be fine, don't be tempted to hold it still by the cooling fins if you do try to remove the pulleys, this gets bent very easily

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The 'track' is fine, its just the lip of the pully thats a bit bent. I reckon it'll straighten out with little bother.

 

If it does make a noise, I'll try and take the pully off my current one (off the car) and swap them. No point doing the work if the current one is fine.

 

thanks.

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What I do to get the pulley bolt undone (alternator off the car) is to put an old belt round the pulley, put the loose end of the belt into a vice and then tighten the vice while pulling down on the belt. This tightens the belt onto the pulley and usually a couple of "taps" with a hammer is enough to get the bolt moving. The friction of the belt keeps the pulley from turning. Hope that makes some kind of sense.

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What I do to get the pulley bolt undone (alternator off the car) is to put an old belt round the pulley, put the loose end of the belt into a vice and then tighten the vice while pulling down on the belt. This tightens the belt onto the pulley and usually a couple of "taps" with a hammer is enough to get the bolt moving. The friction of the belt keeps the pulley from turning. Hope that makes some kind of sense.

 

genius!, never thought of that :)

have to say, the second hand vice I bought must be one of the best tools I've ever had :)

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Just taken a look and it seems straight forward enough. The (I assume its the...) return cable is very thin. Even the alternator I bought has a thicker cable to it.

 

Very good idea Wullie, all I need is a Vice...

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genius!, never thought of that :)

have to say, the second hand vice I bought must be one of the best tools I've ever had :)

 

Not genius, just old.

 

---------- Post added at 3:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:32 PM ----------

 

Just taken a look and it seems straight forward enough. The (I assume its the...) return cable is very thin. Even the alternator I bought has a thicker cable to it.

 

Very good idea Wullie, all I need is a Vice...

 

Try mole grips. Get the belt as tight round the pulley as you can, clamp it the grips then lay the whole caboodle on the ground. Use a foot on the belt, grip bit to stop it moving about and do the hammer bit. Arrange it so that you are hitting down toward the mole grip. It's awkward but achievable. Don't hit the alternator or your toes. The wire on mine is pretty thin as well.

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ARGH. 10 minutes my arse! So the adjuster bolt hole was threaded, put the bolt through from the other side sorted that. But now when I tighten the bolt it's not turning the cg, so I can't get te belt right enough. Given up for today. Advise please!

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Leave the bottom two bolts slightly loose. Wedge a large spanner or something similar between the block and alternator, and pull it towards you whilst tightening the top tensioner bolt. Nip up the bottom two bolts, job done.

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All sorted. But, it's not! The battery holds 12v, when it's running it's still at 11.4v. The alternator reports 0.40v when read.

 

Ideas? Cable? Starter motor?

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oh no! Sorry Sam, never noticed the pulley being bent, it was noisy went tested but thought it was a loose belt!

 

Seems like your having a nightmare with this. Are you sure there isnt a break in the cables?

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Been tested 3 times! Might get a battery to test.

 

Missed that sorry! Have you tested for an earth? The only other thing is the cable I suppose, or if you have a large earth thats been overlooked. :scratch:

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I'm going with battery, as I said, going to take it back and get them to hook up a new battery and see do its the same. If it is, they owe me a battery! If not i will look into cables etc. I want them to prove its not the battery.

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Worth checking out the engine earth connections next time you have the bonnet up.

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I've just read this: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?6136-Please-help!!-Alternator-No-output/page2

 

I saw a diagram and it showed the blue cable going to the starter motor, which didnt make sense.

 

So, tonight i'll take a look at the blue cable and see. It looks as though I can connect it straight to the battery (-) to test if it works. I know the LED in the dash works, as it flickers some times when high revs.

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