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seanoVR

A few problems

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After just having had my VR serviced at Dubsport, i have been shown a few advisories. Was just wondering if anyone could tell me just how important/severe the problems are, and if it is worth getting it seen to straight away.

1. Cat heatshield needs welding.

2. Center and rear box need replacing. (it's not blowing and appears fine to me, maybe it is just corroded and on it's way out, so maybe i should wait till it does go??)

3. Leaking oil at oil cooler oil seals

4. Ribbed belts need replacing.(i think both alternator belts and PAS belts.

 

And then VAG COM showed that the fuel pump relay is "something something" (can't remember if it was inoperative etc..)

What do you guys think, and roughly how much to get these niggles sorted out??

Also would the fuel pump relay be in anyway connected to the immobiliser, as the other day, after having driven the car for 10 miles, i switched off. When i tried to start it 10 mins later, it wasn't firing. Tried about 5 times, and eventually it caught??

Any help would be much appreciated.

Sean

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Exhaust - ignore it. Replace it when it's blowing. It's a dual-skinned exhaust, so even if the outside is rusted through, it's not necessarily blowing, and it's not gonna fail an MOT for a bit of rust.

Cat heatshield - the only reason this was installed was to prevent the cat from setting fire to any grass you park on.

Oil cooler seals costs a few pennies and 10 minutes to fit.

Ribbed belts - good question I'll be interested to hear the answer. There's only one belt by the way. Think they're about £25 from VW.

Fuel pump relay will be a few quid from VW.

In other words, you're lucky!

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1. remove cat heat sheild and bin it.

 

2. buy a new exhasut, but not off dubsport (they'll be expecting you to).

 

3. buy new oil cooler seals, they are only a few quid and easy to change.

 

4. buy a new serpentine belt and fit it yourself.

 

fuel pump relay is triggered by the ECU, and goes through the factory immobilser. take the realy out (bottom right) and bridge the 2 slots where the big terminals go with a hefty bit of wire with 2 blades crimped on the end. that'll make the pump run full time. see if that gets rid of the problem.

 

if it does, then get you multi meter out and check the connection to the smallest leg of the fuel pump relay. IIR the ECU earths it in order to tun the relay and pump on and off.

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Thanks guys for your quick replies. Will set about trying to rectify these 'niggles' tommorrow when at home and a proper garage to work in with decent tools!!

Will try your method of checking the relay Phat, and hopefully all will be sorted.

Thanks again

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