Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 17, 2004 Supercharged complained of a strange rattle at idle, so when doing a cambelt change, look what we found, LOL! One completely shafted tensioner. Several of the ball bearings had disintegrated, hence the rust and metal swarf everywhere. G60 boys, keep an eye on your tensioners! K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted April 17, 2004 Supercharged complained of a strange rattle at idle, so when doing a cambelt change, look what we found, LOL! One completely shafted tensioner. Several of the ball bearings had disintegrated, hence the rust and metal swarf everywhere. G60 boys, keep an eye on your tensioners! K kev u also need to keep an eye on that boy of yrs looks like that cambelt was pretty old to me... keep him in shape ehh... :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 17, 2004 He's not the most mechanically minded of people I've ever met, LOL! :lol: His G60 is in good hands...... The belt was in that condition because of the tensioner! As you can see the teeth are actually OK! Shame you're booked up mate as he is desperate to come down to you for a Step-Lader rebuild. K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blown 0 Posted April 17, 2004 Lol,that pic looks like a familiar sight...I've been staring at the same thing for the last cupla months wondering where I can get the bolt/stud for the tensioner cos mine has vanished since I took the head off! :roll: Any ideas/suggestions or even a part no would be greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted April 17, 2004 The part number you are after is N902 964 01. M10x40/15 Stud. Hope that helps mate. J Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 17, 2004 Yeah, Cambelt was only 30k miles old according to my 'full VAG' service history and it looked fine last year when I checked it but looks like the muppets changed the belt and not the tensioner :mad: making the cambelt look like its been round the clock! - I was very lucky indeed, cheers for the help Kev! :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhatVR6 0 Posted April 18, 2004 My 8v one too. Right in front of my eyes! It was making a wierd noise, so I took the belt cover off ans then fired it up to see what it was. the f*cker siezed solid there and then! just caught it in time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kvwloon 0 Posted April 18, 2004 Hmmm, and for us 16 valvers, how easy are the tensioners to change as a DIY job whilst doing cambelt, as mine must be due renewal by now. All sounds OK though, but guess these can give up the ghost without too much warning? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 18, 2004 if you're doing the cam belt, you just need to remove the nut that you have to slacken to de-tension the belt, and instead of just tightening it, you need to put the nut back on, and then tighten it! ;) It's a doddle, exactly the same to do as the 8V engines... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andihaz 0 Posted April 18, 2004 Yeah, think my 16 valver needs the tensioner it sounds like theirs a big roar from the cambelt when revved. I've taken the cover off and the belt seems to have quite a large amount of play in it. How much would it be for new belt and tensioner? Is it best to get original stealer, or to just get any old replacement! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 18, 2004 http://www.eurocarparts.co.uk says: 1.8 16v Cambelt £11.75 Tensioner £17.95 GSF has the same prices... 8) Stealer prices aren't much higher on these parts, and there's not a lot in it quality wise... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andihaz 0 Posted April 22, 2004 In the haynes manual for the 16 valve engine, it says that on the 16 valve engine you should use a special tool to set the correct tension for the belt, has anyone ever done this and know how much the tool would cost from the stealers, or does everyone just stick to the 90 degree twist rule? Whats better tighter or slacker (the belt that is :lol: ) as the 90 degree rule always seems to be a bit vague to me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted April 22, 2004 90 degree rule worked every time in around 80K miles on my 16V engines... ;) 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 22, 2004 In the haynes manual for the 16 valve engine, it says that on the 16 valve engine you should use a special tool to set the correct tension for the belt, has anyone ever done this and know how much the tool would cost from the stealers, or does everyone just stick to the 90 degree twist rule? Whats better tighter or slacker (the belt that is :lol: ) as the 90 degree rule always seems to be a bit vague to me! Nobody ever does that! Not even the dealers! When you've done it a few times, you just instinctively know when the tension is correct, without even having to twist it 90 degrees :lol: Too slack = risk of tooth jumpage. Too tight = premature wear of both the belt and the tensioner. K Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 22, 2004 Fair enough you don't need the special tool but all it is is a shaped bit of metal so if you are planning on doing more than one belt change its probably worth getting one... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
