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Michael'durham'

Newly purchased Corrado 2.0 8v 1995

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Good Morning Corrado team,

I spoke to Jim on Sunday and he recommended to post a few questions in here.

 

My Corrado is booked in at a local well established vw specialist I previously had a polo G40 in 1995 and they looked after it back then, plus the owner has two VR6's one storm that he's had from new with only 34k. Garages with a interest in the great older stuff I feel is always a good choice.

Mine is a satin silver 2.0 8v it's been owned with the same keeper for last 13years and history is dealer upto 90k then local specialists after that upto it's 125,000, a service in the record is now due.

 

Right My questions;

 

1) I've booked it in for Friday for a good look underneath first, all being well I've decided on the day for timing belt and a major service. What other stuff would you guys get done on that visit? Is belt tensioner and water pump a must while they are in there ? What's a good idea to get done on friday and check/replace on my little 8 valver?

 

2) Currently when started cold (every time) it's will not idle, without revving it just cuts out, this happens at junctions until 10mins till its warmed up? This garage has a VAG computer but I'm under the impression from reading alot that it may say a number of things. And problems still urcure. Should I purchase a coolent temperature sensor ready? what are all your wonderful findings?

 

3) The rest is bulbs and headlights, a few lights are off and some housings are cracked, are there now easy plug in and go options to improve the lights? Ready to rock halogen brightness up front.

I'm needing a drivers side o/s headlamp or do a repair it has a hole in the glass off a lovely stone, and the fog light under it on the drivers side also, thats totally smashed and rusted reflector plate. Not seen any later spots about, can anyone help.

 

Lastly to replace the number plate lights to clear white style are they a plug in and go? Bulb type?.. Also the screws in the fixing are well gone (rusted in), is it safe to drill it out and not damage the treads behind?

 

 

Thanks in advance, :)

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waterpump is not on the cambelt so only change that if it needs replacing (i.e. leaking!)

these engines are interference so it's a good idea to get the cambelt and tensionner done

the ISV (Idle valve) on the top back of the cam cover could probably do with a good clean with carb cleaner, other than that the throttle body can always do with a clean but these engines are pretty robust, plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor could probably do with changing if not done for a while.

coolant temp sensor has two circuits (for ECU and dash reading I think) both can be checked with a multimeter, get the resistance at cold, fully hot and in between as it warms or cools, just to see if it's giving a sensible range. No ppoint in changing it if it's OK.

Oh, get them to check the rear brake bias valve is nice and free, same goes for the handbrake release mechs on the rear calipers, always worth a check of the rear beam bushes and wishbone (rear bushes) on the front of the car as well as play in the inner and outer track rod joints (which makes a big difference to driving/steering feel)

Edited by davidwort

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That's fantastic information, thank you so much. Saved me a water pump. :) hahaha. I'm so in the dark on tech stuff.

 

Apart from the idle valve and top back of cam cover cleaned out is that the issue of the poor cold idling sorted?

Any good links for the right tensioner and sensor? Where's best to get good VW parts these days?

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a belt and tensionner from euro car parts or GSF will be fine, sensors should be OK too, you can try VW for the sensor, see if they come back with a half sensible price though!

idle at cold could be a number of things, I think your year uses a proper MAF rather than the '94 8v that uses a digifant flappy air meter gate thing, could always be a dodgy MAF, start with they cheap and easy first, cleaning and the temp sensor :)

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Class, great useful info again, always like the sound of start with cheap then work up. I'm sure Maf sensors can be cleaned and sorted that way.

I started it up tonight for a little run up the road and it ran a bit lumpy until it warmed up.

Engine sounds sweat as a nut. I'm sure Fridays inspection will be the day.

Thanks for parts links. I'm needing a rear number plate lights and cover its rusted away. Odd place for chrome?....

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Good luck with the car mate, hope you enjoy it as much ad I have mine. I've got a '95 Classic Green 8v, had it since Feb 2011 and it's not missed a beat apart from the starter motor being a bit off over the past couple of days.

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Good luck with the car mate, hope you enjoy it as much ad I have mine. I've got a '95 Classic Green 8v, had it since Feb 2011 and it's not missed a beat apart from the starter motor being a bit off over the past couple of days.

 

That's good to know, maybe its time to big up the 8valve a little and it's oh so simple engine, mine is a 95 silver and same owner for last 13yr all dealer and never boy raced, bog standard, I worked for jaguar Aston for 12 years and I'm just taking life easy now and picked up a iconic car for 1500. And after today with its great thunbs up. They spent 2hrs just checking everything, I love having a perfect fair vw service specialist local. :)

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Really can't fault the 8v model to be fair. I've had faster card in the past but in this day and age you can't really push a car too much anyway, what with all the traffic, speed cameras and over zealous traffic police. 8v engine doesn't really push the chassis to much unless you drive like a dickhead, quite safe to push it as far as you can when you're on quiet b roads away from everybody else, still brings a smile to your face whilst returning 35mpg easily when taking it easy. Also I've noticed with it sharing an engine with the mk3 Golf GTi the engine parts are a little cheaper.

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