No ignition feed to stereo

[st4stokie 10]

Just fitted a sony stereo to the C but I'm getting no feed from the brown/red wire from the ignition barrel. How hard is it to change the connection plug at the back of the barrel as this seems to be the problem as the continuity on the brown/red wire is good. I'm assuming the contacts in the back of the ignition switch are worn :shrug:

[Stonejag 10]

You're probably right, but just check the right-most fuse on the fusebox first. If the wiring hasn't been modified to the most-recent ISO standard (swapping permanent-live and switched-live) then a poor connection on that fuse will knock out the radio. Most likely if your fusebox has jumped out of its mountings as the fuse can work loose against the bonnet release. Ask me how I know..!

 

Stone

[st4stokie 10]

That fuse is for the permanent feed for the radio stone and is fine, got a permanent feed on from that. It's just the ignition feed that's dead. Do you know how hard or easy it is to remove and replace the ignition barrel? And how did you find out about the fuse working loose? :)

[vw rule 19]

Hello there, it's not to bad to change the ignition switch,

 

1) disconnect the negative battery lead.

 

2) remove the steering wheel.

 

3) remove the lower dash trim under the steering column.

 

4) tilt the steering column down via the lever.

 

5) remove the black plastic upper and lower steering column covers.

 

6) unplug the ignition switch connector plug (on the back of switch)

 

7) unscrew small philips screw, small screw fixing base of ignition switch in to the steering column housing.

 

(you can't get at this screw with a normal sized philips screw driver)

I got a 7mm or 8mm combination spanner and supper glued a philips screw driver bit end,

in to the ring part of the spanner so I was able to remove the small philips screw.

 

Or you can remove the steering column via the universal joint just under the brake pedal in side the car,

this way you should be able to get at the small screw a lot easier,

but it may make the job a bit longer as you'll be removing the steering column.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Si

[st4stokie 10]

Thanks Si I know which screw you mean, looks impossible to get to think I've got a spare spanner I can weld a philips bit to though so that'll be my job for today :thumbleft:

[sankysvr6 0]

There is a guide on how to change the ignition switch in the WiKi section.

[st4stokie 10]

There is a guide on how to change the ignition switch in the WiKi section.

 

Thanks I'll have a look for it just ordered a new switch on Ebay £5 not sure how good it will be but it's got to be better than the one that's in there now

[st4stokie 10]

Just looked up the guide on the wiki section surely you can do it without taking the drivers seat out? Also looks like I've cocked up buying the switch off ebay, should of brought genuine :shrug:

[sankysvr6 0]

I had the same issue on mine, when I changed the stereo.

 

Have a look at my post, I did a tear down of the ignition switch. So you can at least check the one you have bought, before fitting it.

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=80372&page=3

 

 

You don't really need to take out the drivers seat, just helps give you better access to it.

[Stonejag 10]

Wow, you definitely don't need to take out the seat! Wouldn't have dreamed of doing it that way...

 

You can test the ignition switch easily. Take off the lower column plastic (three screws, unless one or more have been snapped off in the past - extremely common) and unplug the switch from the harness. Then crimp four short lengths of wire onto a spade terminal at one end, and all four together into a single spade at the other end. There are four contacts around a central pin - I forget which order they are in, but one is radio live, one is the starter, one is the 'key inserted' signal and one is the 'key in accessory position' signal. Plug the four-way crimp into the middle, then experiment using one of the single-crimped ends and you'll find one of them should turn the radio ignition feed on. If that works but it doesn't with the key, then your switch has died.

 

Important safety note: you can start the car doing this, but under no circumstances do it without the key in the ignition and turned. The key needs to be in the ignition so the immobiliser coil can read its chip (if fitted) and it needs to be turned to deactivate the steering lock. If you forget then you'll get it locking when you turn the wheel too hard while driving - dangerous!

 

To replace the switch, the easiest way is to drop the column. First remove the steering wheel by pulling off the horn push cover and undoing the 24mm nut in the middle. Look for the two shear bolts inserted into a metal 'wing' that sticks out from either side of the black-coated outer column tube. Grind the heads off with a Dremel or similar, keeping an eye on the wiring, and then remove the other two (regular) bolts from the wings. The column will then drop into your lap, releasing the top column plastic as it comes - support it as it comes down and remove the immobiliser ring (if fitted) with a straight pull over the ignition barrel, as its cable is a little short.

 

Slide the seat all the way back to give yourself a little more room. You can then either undo the single bolt holding the UJ together at the base and do the rest out of the car, or leave it in which is slightly more fiddly. I heated a Christmas-cracker Philips screwdriver to cherry-red and then bent the tip 90 degrees with two pairs of mole grips to get access to the tiny screw, but the other methods already mentioned would also work. Replace switch, reassemble, all should work :)

Edited September 3, 2013 by Stonejag