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Will.I.Dub

Vapour lock?? VR cuts out immediately after starting

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The car is new to me, it has happened a handful of times, turns over and starts straight away, runs for a few seconds but then stops. Takes 3 or 4 attempts (regardless of throttle position) to get motoring. Has happened after short runs where I've had the boot down with little time to cruise + cool hence why I suspect V-lock.

Any ideas folks?

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Wonderful!

I know absolutely nothing about alarms/immobilisers!

 

According to the only previous owner pretty much all he ever had to do with the car (50k miles) was fit a TOAD A1606 cat 1 alarm in '03 -receipts confirm this too - as he said 'the original failed and the insurance company insisted it was replaced'

 

How does the alarm/immobiliser function on the Corrado?

Is there an immobiliser control box that would be replaced as part of a new install as happened in '03?

Where do you get VAGCOM?

 

Other possible related oddity - if I park and lock up leaving the sunroof tilted open when I unlock and sit in the roof closes a touch, actually I should check if it's when I switch the ignition back on or when I press the unlock button on the fob. Full closure or something gone arseways?

 

There's an 'alarm' led in the switch blank beside the headlight switch, when I switch off ignition it goes red after maybe a minute and to get the starter to spin you have to press the unlock fob button which I presume is the usual set up?

 

On another note I forgot how rubbish the headlights are on a C!!!

Had a 300 mile round trip today the last of which was driven in poor light with even poorer lights, the VR really likes to keep pulling doesn't it!!

Hope this ramble makes some sort of sense...

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VW Factory-fit immobilisers were integrated into the ECU from about 94/95 onwards I think. The issue you have sounds like the factory fit immobiliser, not the after-market one. The VW immobiliser is pretty good actually when it works - it picks up a signal from a transponder in your key. If it doesn't get the signal, the ECU will cut the engine.

 

The problem is probably the plug into the immobiliser box. Remove the fusebox cover and the lower dash shelf on the driver's side. Up behind the dash, near the spoiler switch should be the immobiliser box (I think the spoiler control box is around there too). There's a small plug going into it - remove it and use some WD40/contact cleaner to clean up the contacts.

 

Sounds like it's time to invest in an uprated headlamp loom too, as well as better wipers to get your car ready for winter!

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Wonderful!

I know absolutely nothing about alarms/immobilisers!

 

According to the only previous owner pretty much all he ever had to do with the car (50k miles) was fit a TOAD A1606 cat 1 alarm in '03 -receipts confirm this too - as he said 'the original failed and the insurance company insisted it was replaced'

 

How does the alarm/immobiliser function on the Corrado?

Is there an immobiliser control box that would be replaced as part of a new install as happened in '03?

Where do you get VAGCOM?

 

Other possible related oddity - if I park and lock up leaving the sunroof tilted open when I unlock and sit in the roof closes a touch, actually I should check if it's when I switch the ignition back on or when I press the unlock button on the fob. Full closure or something gone arseways?

 

There's an 'alarm' led in the switch blank beside the headlight switch, when I switch off ignition it goes red after maybe a minute and to get the starter to spin you have to press the unlock fob button which I presume is the usual set up?

 

On another note I forgot how rubbish the headlights are on a C!!!

Had a 300 mile round trip today the last of which was driven in poor light with even poorer lights, the VR really likes to keep pulling doesn't it!!

Hope this ramble makes some sort of sense...

 

The late Corrado's had built in full closure - and what's likely is that the pulse time on the Toad alarm has not been setup properly long enough to actually fully operate the full closure system. If you want to test it works, open a window and the sunroof then get out of the car and lock the car from the key in the drivers door - but keep the key in the lock turned to the lock position - the window and sunroof should fully close :) That will confirm that your full closure system is working, and that the alarm just needs setting up properly to use it.

 

Regarding the immobiliser problem - this has been discussed several bajillion times on here - here's a pertinent example from the sadly now passed away Chris Gaskell :(

 

Haven't read anyone mentioning the ignition key sensor to immboliser connection under the dash above the spoiler switch. (ETA: Posted by Floppyman while writing this!) Disconnecting and spraying with WD40 to see if its a micro-corrosion problem blocking the key signal. Follow the shiney black cable off the steering column wiring to the immobiliser box on the inside of the dash. Disconnect the brown 3 pin connector carefully as they are small fine pins and sockets. Spray with WD40 and re-connect.

 

After this it gets more difficult to pin point. So try check the key fob out if its split open at all, try the WD40 trick, get the ECU re-scanned (clear faults down first, try starting and then look at the faults codes and what they are.).

 

.

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Great, thanks guys, this forum continues to enlighten!

 

The closure function works when key is in door so seeing as when the fob button is pressed it only pulses for 1/2 second (and likewise when I start the car) the toad under my dash must need some sorting out.

I've had a dig around the web looking at installation manuals and the like but don't have a pin for the toad, will have to contact the installers - who I suspect are no longer trading.

 

As for the factory immob I will do as advised and report....

 

I must remember not to post here after a couple of beers as the ramblings tend to get ramblier!

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