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Yet another G60 wont start ... hall sender?

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Hi All

I'm really stuck as what to do next, so if anyone has any advice for my probably stupid questions below then that would be massively appreciated. Thanks.

 

Short version:

G60 turns over fine but wont start. Thinking distributor as strobe shows nothing from coil. Can I test the hall sender operation somehow?

 

Long version:

Okay car's been sat in my garage for a long time, well 4'ish years. Desperately trying to get it back on the road as I've had enough of modern cars and luckily clung onto this car much to the annoyance of my wife.

 

Over the past few weeks I've been working on it. Had it running on occasions for a short time but it would then stall. Mostly it would not start at all. Few days back I found my alternator was sucking 3.5amps which I've now replaced with a good one and current drain is correct now.

 

Trouble is now it won't start at all!

Turns over fine, yet strobe shows nothing from coil to dizzy, or dizzy to plugs.

 

Within the past few weeks I've fitted new:-

Cam belt as per a G60 thread on forum, battery, dizzy cap, rotor arm, coil, leads, alternator, ECU relay, ignition switch, oil and filter, cleaned all earth points, cleaned connectors, checked for good resistance at BTS.

Added fresh fuel to the tank so it's 50/50 good and old stuff.

ISV buzzes and "clicks" about once a second, so ECU okay...?

Ignition on I hear a fuel pump buzz.

 

I've loosened the distributor locking nut, but the body just wont rotate at all.

It's held fast to the engine block :(

 

What should I be looking at next ....?

Is there any wiring I should be testing ?

Can I somehow test the hall sender ?

Is it likely that I need to replace the distributor ?

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Check to make sure you're getting voltage to the coil from ignition. If that is correct, as you said it occasionally started before changing everything over, its not uncommon for parts to be defective when new so systematically start replacing the new stuff back for the old, starting at the coil if you have voltage to it. Dizzy should rotate, but its only a mechanical gear so unlikely to be at fault. Its this that rotates the rotor arm to distribute the spark. Loosen off the two securing bolts, and give it a gentle tap both ways. If it ran ok before being laid up, then timing should be fine there though. After cranking it over a bit, remove a spark plug to see if its wet to ensure you're getting fuel, but tbh it sounds like spark related stuff to me. Just a case of chasing it back mate.

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Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and I am the owner of a 1991 g60 with 75000 miles. The car has been sitting for 4 years. The I checked the fuel relay and it's fine but the fuel pump does not turn on.. I need to change it.. Since I am new to corrado's. I am asking for assistance, since I am going to Change it what should I replace it with.. I plan on adding hp to the vehicle, so in a nut shell if you could do it again what would you do... Thx in advance

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Okay tried old and new combinations for dizzy cap, rotor arm, and coil with no joy :(

Measured and I have correct voltage and resistance for both new and old coil, so going with shiny new coil at the moment.

Hall sender harness, checked voltage on outer pins and that's correct.

HT leads resistance measure fine.

 

Next I'll make myself an LED test light to check the hall sender across its harness centre and brown/white wired terminal :(

 

Anything else I can try or test ?

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Went to Maplins, bought a 12v LED and made myself a "test light".

 

As per Bentley manual, put light across coil terminals 1 & 15. Turned car over and no flicker from the LED.

Then tried testing the Hall Sender. With harness connected to the distributor, pulled plug cover up. Put test light across middle pin and the outer Brown & White. Turned engine over and no flicker from LED, just constant ON.

So according to Bentley manual my Hall Sender has died...

 

Arse.

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In the end I bought a refurbished unit from GSF, which was not cheap :(

At least it came with a new rotor arm and a suppression cap.

It's now fitted to the car, which now starts reliably!

... next up is timing.

 

As for the original distributor ... it wouldn't rotate at all. So I soaked its base in WD40. Then set to it with a length of wood and a lump hammer, knocking it side to side. Got some movement, so then spent ages cursing it until it started to rotate. Next hardship was getting to the poxy thing to pull out! Again soaked base in WD40, applied much cursing, and eventually it lifted out.

Saga ends.

 

Next step MOT ...

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