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MoonlightVR6

Advice for replaceing door glass / windows.

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Some little ****er threw a brick through my passenger side door window on my '93 VR6. Little **** didn't even take anything, just smashed it and ran off for fun! Even got the whole thing on cctv, but the res is pretty low and no faces can be seen. :-(

 

It needs replacing, is there any points I should be aware of when looking for a replacement. Can any Corrado door glass replace it, or do I need a specific part depending on the age model of my Corrado.

 

If anyone has a 93 Corrado VR6 that no longer needs the passenger side glass, I will take it!

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M8 that is awful, hang the little feck!!!

 

'i mean, dont **** with another mans vehicle!!!!'

 

hope you get it sorted, im sure someone here will help

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I know, I was screwing, I have only just got her started aswell, thought I was coming to the end of her problems... I am based in Ruislip, N/W London.

 

Does anyone know if all the corrado door glass is generic, as in either a G60, 16V or VR6 glass will fit.

 

 

So you can feel my pain.

 

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I don't know for certain but in pretty sure any would do. I don't recall any change to the doors between older and newer trim, apart from the door cards. Bladdy annoying though :(

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You may find some are tinted, others clear.

 

I'd have walked over to the car and pretended to get something out of it long before they smashed the window, I'd have even talked to them asking them if they liked it or have they seen one before. ie something non confrontational

 

Little *******s

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I hope you reported it to the police to create a crime statistic?

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Its a pitty I was at home. The car was sorn'ed at my work carpark (so it didn't get towed for not having tax).

 

Ahh that is a relief that they are universal. That should make finding one a little easier.

If anyone hears of one, please let me know.

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Seen the you tube vid, they were obviously checking all the doors and went to the tail gate and tried that also. Why do these tossers do this to cars? cant get me head around this.

I had this done to my Mazda 323f pop up head light model, the side window was replaced on the insurance, had to wait a few days due the window not been readily available off the shelf, paid my excess £50 and was fitted at home.

They would get a fine or something like that if they were caught. Put them in with owners of these cars and see what happens then i don't think they would be doing it again in a hurry.

Good luck with the glass replacement.

Edited by Ray1965

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i have glass for either door you can have FOC from a 93 VR but we arent too close. Any plans to come up North?

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Sorry to hear about this mate hope you get it sorted.

 

Here's a link for any other parts you may need.

http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=vw&t_id=111390&added_=VOLKSWAGEN%20Scirocco/Corrado%201991

 

You might have to remove the N/S outer window scraper seal,

as you can't always get the replacement glass in with out removing it.

So you might have to replace that as well as they normally bend out of shape once removed.

I had to remove mine when I replaced my N/S window regulator,

had to remove the whole window glass up through out the top of the door.

 

I have got a new N/S door window outer scraper seal for mine,

as my old one bent slightly when I removed it,

but I haven't fitted it yet as I'm having the door sprayed in the summer due to a little rust,

so MOONLIGHTVR6 if you do need one ASAP you can have my new at cost price what I payed for it.

 

Here's a link on removing the sraper seal:

 

 

Si

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The thing was, it was loaded the the hilt with tools from my work that I had been attempting to fix her with. They didn't even take any of it, which is why I feel like what was the point!

 

@VAG-hag, I'm interested but whats FOC? How much you want for it? I maybe able to get it picked up by DHL from my work.

 

@VW Rule, thanks for the offer mate. What is facevalue of the glass you have? I am interested.

Also cheers for the heads up RE: the outer seal, I am soo close to having her going again, I think I'd have just ripped that off with my teeth! (and ****ed it up)

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Hello MOONLIGHTVR6,

 

sorry mate I don't have a spare door window,

but like I say I have got a spare new scraper seal if you need it.

 

 

Cheers

 

Si

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i have glass for either door you can have FOC from a 93 VR but we arent too close. Any plans to come up North?

 

@VAG-hag, I will take it! You the man! & my Baby is very gratefull! I will PM you my contact details, I will be able to get a DHL guy to pick it up from you newt week (whenever is easiest for you).

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Hello MOONLIGHTVR6,

 

sorry mate I don't have a spare door window,

but like I say I have got a spare new scraper seal if you need it.

 

 

Cheers

 

Si

 

I am going to be incredibly carefull with that bit (as advised in the video) but just out of curiosity & if impatience gets the better of me, whats the price?

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Hello mate,

 

I bought it last year in early October of 2013,

cost me £51.78 VAT was at 20% = £10.35

 

So the total I payed was £62.13

Bought it through VW Heritage.

 

Or your best offer close to the above price.

 

I won't charge you for any carriage I'll just write that off.

I can send out via 1st or 2nd class Royal Mail signed for on delivery,

if you're in the UK.

 

 

Cheers

 

Si

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@Si,

 

Cool man. I will let you know how I get on. If I bodge getting the old one off I will 100% be having it off you. But hopefully I will get it off as it is on the car, as I really dont want to have more things to replace.

 

Is there anything else I should be aware of while dismantling the door? Like the window raising mechanism etc..?

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Yeah once you've removed the door card,

you'll also have to remove the inner window scraper seal,

these are normally a lot easier to remove.

 

It's the black strip of plastic that is fitted to the top of the inner door,

level with the dash board.

Basically the top of the door card fits slightly into the inner scraper seal,

so when you remove the door card don't force anything,

 

 

1)open door and remove the black plastic lock pin,

(this is the one that you push down to lock and pull up to unlock the door)

 

2)Removing the door card.

(two screws are in the outer side - on door catch side)

 

2a)Will have to remove the inner door handle cover,

they are clipped on so you'll have to use a small / medium screw driver - flat ended,

to carefully take it off.

Once cover is removed you should see 2 large philips screws - unscrew them slightly,

as you've got to remove the electric window switch first before you remove the screws above.

 

2b) The electric window switch should lift up using a small flat ended screw driver,

once that is out slightly remove the multi plug off the switch.

 

2b1) The door catch puller inside, there's a plastic surround that helps to keep the door card in place,

this plastic surround you have to push / slide it forward or backwards,

I can't remember which way, I think it's forward.

Just don't force anything, you'll know which way it'll go because you'll feel it.

 

2b2) Right with the above surround removed,

you'll now be able to completely remove those 2 large philips screws (from 2a)

 

2c) There might be one or two small screws a long the bottom of the door card,

plus might be one near to where the speaker is,

you might even have to remove the speaker cover.

 

2d) The door card should now pull off, BUT it could still be attached in places,

as there are normally some small white, green or black push in clips,

(these are attached to the inner side of the door card, and clip in to the inner door skin)

simply use your fingers and carefully prize door card away from door,

you should hear a popping noise once the clip / clips have come away from the inner door skin.

 

2e) Starting at the bottom of door card, lift door card outwards -(away from door)

then carefully pull door card away out from inner scraper seal,

and now you'll have to lift the whole door card upwards,

as you've got to lift it over the locking pin arm shaft / rod

 

NOTE

If the door card doesn't want to lift off then there might still be a screw,

or clip still attached.

So when you start to pull the door card away from the door,

just be careful and go at it slowly if you haven't done one before.

 

3) Now with the door card fully removed,

you'll have to remove the door membrane,

this is the clear or black plastic covering that stops rain water from entering in to your car.

(Best bet is to pull it away from the top, and then carefully pull it down,

but keep the bottom edge attached.

 

4) Remove the inner window scraper seal,

it should lift up away from the door,

if you start at the outer edge where the locking pin shaft / rod is.

 

5) Remove the outer window scraper seal (as in the video attached from earlier on)

 

6) Reconnect the electric window switch.

(as you'll have to raise and lower the window to gain access to the two 10mm bolts)

These bolts are 6mm or 8mm in diameter with a 10mm hex head - hence use of socket.

 

7) Now you'll need a 1/4" ratchet / medium to long extension,

and a 10mm socket for the above.

(unscrew these bolts slightly but nut fully)

 

NOTE:

There should be a whole in the inner door that the two bolts above will line up with,

this is how you unbolt them or do them up.

 

8) Use one of your hands to support the window glass,

and the other to remove the two bolts.

Or get someone to assist you on this bit (i.e by holding the glass for you)

 

9) With the window completely unbolted use the electric window switch,

to lower the regulator to the bottom of the door,

this just makes it a little easier to remove the window glass.

 

10) You've got to take the window glass out at an angle,

other wise you won't be able to get it out.

(I think I did it by tilting the glass down forward,

and raising the back edge up,

then the glass window should lift up out of the gap,

between the inner and outer door skins.

 

NOTE:

If you don't have the two inner and outer scraper seals removed,

then you won't be able to get the window out,

as it won't fit up through the gap.

 

11) You shouldn't have to do this,

but you might have to remove slightly the rubber door frame seal,

(The main issue is the window channel rubber lining, it can restrict the removal of the window glass,

as it makes the door / window frame that bit thicker,

so taking the window out can be a little tricky,

it will come out but might not on the first few goes)

 

I can't remember now off hand if I took it out from the inside,

or from the outside of the door / window frame when removing the window.

 

REPLACING WINDOW:

Then putting back in the replacement window is as reverse of above.

 

NOTE:

When you have the glass back inside the door and are ready to fit the two 10mm bolts in,

bolt them up and test operation of the window going up and down,

as you may have to adjust it slightly.

 

WHEN YOU ARE REATTACHING THE INNER MEMBRANE YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO REUSE THE OLD SEALANT,

THAT IS STILL ON THE DOOR,

IF NOT THEN USE SOMETHING LIKE TIGER REAL AS IT'S STRONG AND WILL LAST.

 

 

NOTE:

Make sure you re-grease the window channel guides and rollers,

and check operation of your door catch,

as they can seize up so this would be the perfect time to grease / oil that up as well.

The same goes for the outer door handle.

 

NOTE:

Check as well the wiring in the bottom of the door,

as the window can catch and start slicing through the wiring each time it is lowered.

 

 

I don't think I've forgotten anything else ?

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si

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Thanks for the advise VE Rule, I am hoping to give it a shot this weekend, weather permitting.

 

Before it was broken, I did have a problem with the window and thought I maybe able to sort it at the same time.

The window worked fine as in it went up and down ok, but if it was say, half way down, it would rattle. I cant remember if it did it all the way down, but it didn't do it when it was all the way up.

I assume it was just loose, so I will make sure any screws are quite tight but could this mean something else is wrong aswell?

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They usually rattle when the white plastic 'wheels' that fit on the two arms of the window mech come undone. There's a metal 'U' channel bonded of the bottom of the glass - with just the arm in the window channel then it's undersized and rattles. Have a good look when you get the door card off and hopefully it will be in the bottom of the door or jammed in the channel - they're unobtanium now so you'll be a bit stuck if you can't find it! They're just a press fit onto the arms so sometimes pop out of place.

 

Stone

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So I fitted it today, took me about 4-5 hours hahaha serious, but its water proof now :-)

 

Cheers Si, your step by step guide was spot on and very very helpfull.

The only thing I'd like to add, is getting the new glass in was the trickiest part. I got the glass in from the inside of the door, putting the front part of the glass down in and sliding it towards the front of the door, and then putting the back part in.

The bit that ****ed me for like 2 hours was getting the rail thing that goes from the locking pin to the bottom of the door. I wangled this in by moving the glass almost back out, but of the outside of the door and when it went on i just lowered it down.

 

I left the outside seal on as, when I was removing it I bent it, damn, but its only the edge where it goes over the rear end of the door's pillar, so not too bad. Where he starts from in the vid

 

@VAG-Hag, mate thanks for hooking me up with the glass, your a life saver!

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