Dox

I love a MK2 (can't afford one these days), but there's no comparison between the Corrado and a more door? My Corrado is sulking (6 years standing) and won't start ATM

Time to re assess?

Have you tested yours? They give a small voltage dependant on oxygen level in the exhaust gasses. If it's 4 wire, one pair will be for a heater to help warm up and quicker function. Lambda and MAF / MAP are linked, codes for one often end up being the other as the "dumb" ECU uses best guesses, it's up to the tech to use his wily skills to determine which if any are faulty. Check wiring and plugs for security and cleanliness.

A folding one

Go to your nearest windscreen fitter and give him a drink in exchange for his glue?

Set up a company to “export” (paperwork exercise only) such cars, when you’ve made your first million remember me please £££s

Still here, check in every day

Plug 3 is clean, is the piston top clean too?

I click "All Activity" (top left lower) for new posts and other happenings

If you're going up sizes of fuses you need to carry a spanner to remove the battery negative terminal should smoke or fire appear (tape it to the battery for quick access). It could be the fans are consuming more power than intended? It could be high resistance wiring connections contributing to current draw? It could be that getting the fans moving its taking extra current draw to spin them up? You can buy mini MCBs to replace fuses - reset rather than replace. I'd measure current draw with the fans running, if it's less than the fuse rating, you may be getting a spike in current draw spinning the up from stall? A 10A draw would need a 20A fuse to be reliable and safe?

Fpr is just a preset spring loaded ball valve, you would be better testing the pressure it’s currently working to rather than fitting a Chineseum replacement?

Can you post a pic? Google any part numbers or brands on it?

There's a screen on the bottom of the pump, so at worse the broken plastic will just reside in the tank. How many intact at installation have now cracked in service? It would bug me paying full price for "seconds" though, maybe ask for some discount?

You may well get 12v at the horn wiring disconnected, if there is a break or corrosion to prove it you need to load the circuit, a bulb is a good load as it will be dim if there’s an issue with switches, relays or wiring itself. you could open the relay and clean the contact on the heavy current side

Be careful with the console, they break easily and cost lots if in A1 condition Maybe your has been repaired previously?