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Jim Hughes

New Stereo / Ignition Issue

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Hi,

 

Fitted a new stereo last week and having issues.

 

At first it worked fine, then it went off whilst driving, I thought a bad connection or fuse etc.

 

None, after a lot of investigation I find that the stereo works fine when the ignition is in position 1-2 (engine not running) but when you go to crank to start the power to the stereo drops out and the only way you can get it to power up is by pushing hard down on the ignition key (force applied in direction of steering column) and wiggle the key in the barrel.

 

I was tending to think this was an ignition switch issue, I replaced that yesterday - no improvement

 

I have tried two other stereos in and the problem is the same....

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The +12V supply for the stereo come from a contact at the back of the ignition which is pushed by the end of the key,

I replaced my ignition switch a few months ago for the same problem, now mines starting to play up again, I'm wondering if it's worn key and/or barrel problem,

I'll try my "new" spare key tomorrow to see if that makes a difference

Steve

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Got a similar issue at the mo too after changing the head unit I bought David Wort's 8v and he has kindly messaged me to say he needed to change the steering lock mechanism and as was struggling to find an OE one he fitted a gsf quality one and found that part of the end which connects when you go to turn the key twisted after a while causing ignition issues.

 

He had already replaced the ignition switch with a genuine vw item so maybe the end of the steering lock piece in question has twisted. :/

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Itried the new spare key and no difference,

I haven't got time to investigate today plus it's not a big issue ATM so I'll put it on the list of "to do" items

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This is now sorted.

I soldered a new piece of wire into another switched live (+12V) off the back of the plug that connects to the ignition switch.

Wierd one though, the key/barrel mechanism is purely a mechanical device which transmits its function through the ignition switch?? The ignition switch does the electrical switching, so I would have thought by installing a new switch it would fix the problem.

Unless the original wire was breaking down due to age??

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But what if the barrel is worn as it olso functions to keep the key in the lock whilst driving, if the key is not held far enough in the barrel then the contack to the ignition switch may not be sufficient,

It is quite possible that the reproduction ignition switches are not manufactured correctly,

This is now sorted.

I soldered a new piece of wire into another switched live (+12V) off the back of the plug that connects to the ignition switch.

Wierd one though, the key/barrel mechanism is purely a mechanical device which transmits its function through the ignition switch?? The ignition switch does the electrical switching, so I would have thought by installing a new switch it would fix the problem.

Unless the original wire was breaking down due to age??

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I had a faulty ignition switch from ECP, where the switched positive contact was lying in the bottom of the switch.

 

I posted a tear down of the switch showing this. You could also check the switch is functioning properly with that post. To make sure it's a good switch to start with.

 

One less issue to rule out of the equation.

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But what if the barrel is worn as it olso functions to keep the key in the lock whilst driving, if the key is not held far enough in the barrel then the contack to the ignition switch may not be sufficient,

It is quite possible that the reproduction ignition switches are not manufactured correctly,

 

I replaced the ignition switch with a Volkswagen part.

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You could have just plugged the new ignition switch, and not fitted it into the barrel. Then just tried to see if it all worked okay. Just to eliminate the barrel part.

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You could have just plugged the new ignition switch, and not fitted it into the barrel. Then just tried to see if it all worked okay. Just to eliminate the barrel part.

 

I did exactly that.

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