CV joint

[Nick_Micouris 0]

just received my new CV joint kit and was expecting to have some CV joint bolts with the kit but haven't.

Do I need to change the bolts on the kit or can I just do it all up with threadlock??

The dealer tells me that I dont need to change the CV boot bolts as they aren't stretch ones but I though they were stretch bolts.

Anyone tell me if the dealer is right or wrong? Do I insist on new bolts or just use threadlock?

[Nick_Micouris 0]

that's an INNER Cv joint btw!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I always replace the inner CV bolts (6 of them) as a matter of course, but you can reuse them. You don't really need threadlock but use it if you wish. They used to be stretch type on the MK2s, not sure about the Plus axle arrangements.

 

You'll need an 8mm spline key to remove them.

 

Also, get a new inner flange seal and silicon seal it in. You will also need some moly grease if a satchet of it is not included with the CV. You should also get a new circlip in the kit too.

 

K

[Nick_Micouris 0]

I wont change them then, Kev as they are about 7months old - I will just threadlock them, I think! Any idea what the torque setting is, or is that not particularly important.

Also - is it a particulary hard job? Anything I should do in particular?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Nah it's easy. Jack the car up and leave it in gear, remove the 6 spline bolts and the 2 pressed steel backing plates, pull the CV back and let it drop down, remove the 2 boot clips, peel back the boot, remove the circlip, hammer off the CV gently being careful not to seperate it or the balls will drop out, slide boot off, slide new boot on, clean up the shaft splines and grease it, tap the new CV onto the shaft again, watching those balls, fit new circlip, pack CV with moly grease, slide boot over and fit new clips, check the inner flange seal for leaks and replace if necessary, offer CV up to flange and put the bolts back in. Not sure what the torque setting is but it's not a massive amount. About 40lbs should do it.

 

K

[Nick_Micouris 0]

Nice one - thanks a lot mate :)

[Nick_Micouris 0]

Kev - NO it was NOT easy!!! lol Are you sure you weren't referring to the inner CV on the MK2 ;) Took us absolutely ages because we couldnt get the joint out once bolts were undone!

It wouldnt drop down because it didnt have clearance (bashed on the wishbone/Axle) So we ended up removing the CVjoint up through the top of the bay and then remove the shaft from below. WE got stuck trying to fit a new CV joint from above. Started last night at 7pm - finished today at 4am - I dont know how!! lolvvvvv tired now. What were we doing wrong I wonder :!: :?: :roll: :oops: :(

[Kevin Bacon 5]

If it was the driver's side then yeah, space is tight down there on the VR!

 

You did it though, so what ya complaining about? :wink:

 

It's a good learning curve and you've saved on labour!

[Nick_Micouris 0]

Exactly - at the end of the day - at least we got it back on. LOL When the birds started singing this morning, I panicked that we weren't going to get it back on!

At one point I took the driveshaft off on the drivers side - as I had removed the main hub bolt - is it okay to put it back on or should I have replaced it. I have done it up very tight again.... :?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

You get a new hub nut with outer CV kits because they get done up to some crazy torque of around 200 pounds, so it's a good idea to replace them.

[Nick_Micouris 0]

Any idea what the definite torque is for this and I will get it done?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

195 lb/ft IIRC, might want to double check in a Bentley or something first.

[Nick_Micouris 0]

nice one, Kev! Appreciated.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

No worries. Most mechanics just stand on a huge bar! It has to be real tight otherwise the bearing will wear prematurely.

[Nick_Micouris 0]

No worries. Most mechanics just stand on a huge bar! It has to be real tight otherwise the bearing will wear prematurely.

YEAH! That's exactly what we did!! :D