Northendroid 10 Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) Hi folks: Some of the info has already been posted in another thread but I thought I'd start an engine build thread should someone like to try this hybrid build. 1991 Corrado PG block 1.8L 8V G60, little history car sat for four years ran but has an engine knock, oil light on, makes no power. Reading through previous owners paperwork two items come to light one is the car is bored to 83mm and the second is it went through a lot of head gaskets. Was going to rebuild the PG engine until I came across an brand new AEB block with crank and intermittent shaft installed. Was cheaper buying this block than it would have been to do the PG block re-work. AEB blocks are used in Passats and Audi B5 A4 the early AEB is a 056 with an external water pump while the later model is an 06A which has an internal water pump.These are 056 with external water pump like the PG block. Will be using stock 81mm pistons with new rings, stock conrods bolt up to the AEB crank conrod journals: Here is a list of mods that need to be done to the block to work with the PG 8V head and G-Ladder: Biggest mod is the rear support bracket of the G-Ladder requires a 5mm aluminum plate welded to it, machined to the shape of the crank vent port and a port tapped for a #10AN fitting which will be routed to the the G-Ladder return. This will supply additional lubrication to the supercharger. Rear G-Ladder support bracket: ] Modified to fit in the area: Knock Sensor Location: Drill thru block and tap this existing bolt hole to accept the G-Ladder oil return Install a frost plug: Install crank position sensor (not used - only fills the hole): An AEG head gasket is used with the stock 8V head, the three rear oil journals will be blocked when using this gasket: Purchased BBM Stage 4 chipped ECU, 3.5 bar FPR, 268/260 cam, 65mm pulley The intermittent shaft gear is the same pitch as the PG distributor: The distributor and oil pump must match, PG distributor gear/oil pump have a slotted setup, while the AEB setup has a spline gear and oil pump: PG distributor gear and oil pump slotted shaft AEB spline gear : Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Fix photos after PhotoBucket held everyone hostage wanting $400 to host their pvictures Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
odub 0 Posted November 15, 2016 Great write up and detailed pictures. Keep it coming Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted November 24, 2016 (edited) Thanks odub! The back of the rear G60 support bracket machined flat and a 5mm aluminum plate welded to the back of it: [ Thanks to sdezego for photo! Then it will fit like this, a hose is ran to the G-ladder return for additional lubrication of the G60: [Thanks to sdezego for photo! Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted December 7, 2016 (edited) Took the engine apart today to see why it was knocking [video=youtube_share;0FBRKljurzo]https://youtu.be/0FBRKljurzo Bearing is MIA: Crankshaft is toast, it also has a tight spot when spun: Bearing from cylinder 2 & 1 Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted January 3, 2017 Christ - those bearings! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted January 3, 2017 Christ - those bearings! Yeah I know, I'm amazed it still ran. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) Started cleaning the internals to be swapped into the brand new AEB block for the Corrado. Soak the pistons in Berryman Carburetor & Parts Cleaner for 24hrs carbon wiped right off, re-soaked for another 24hrs, all piston ring grooves are squeaky clean. Top of the piston not perfect but lot better than what I started with Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) Bit of an update,clean carbon on the other three pistons, took the G-lader apart no play in the bearings,cleaning the internal surfaces and inspected for damage and hairline cracks, all good :D Heading to my local bearing shop and see if I can source the following for G-Lader rebuild. I'd rather start fresh and know what been replaced in the G-lader. Viton Seals: 1 x NAK TCY 20.35.7V 1 x NAK TBGV 30.52.6V 1 x NAK TGR 30.45.6V 2 x NAK TGH1 30.42.5.5/6V Bearings: 1 x F-A-G NU202E M1A Outlet Port 1 x F-A-G 6003 2Z C3 Front Intermittent Shaft 1 x F-A-G 6002C 2HRS C3 Rear Intermittent Shaft 1 x F-A-G 6304 C3 Inlet Port 1 x Torrington 10 689A Displacer 1 x F-A-G 310 74336 (small bearing on displacer) Will follow up with availability and pricing. Found a MK1 TT AWU intake manifold for the 1.8L 20V G60 build. Guy also had the phenolic intake manifold transition spacer. Will need blasting and repaint: Next item to find is a OBD-1 ABA throttle body. Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 6, 2017 slowly getting there mate :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 6, 2017 Yes I'd love to have the money to get everything I need but at least it's moving forward a few pieces at a time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 6, 2017 Yeah would be nice wouldn't it. Took me 2 years of scrimping saving and working my arse off to afford my build lol STU175 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 6, 2017 Yeah I know mine will be it first year come summer, got lots of prep and painting of engine parts coming up this summer before even ordering engine rebuild parts so I can keep moving forward. Next purchase is a media blaster (soda and glass bead) and HVLP spray gun. Oh and forgot to post picked up Mocal oil filter sandwich and fittings, also used oil cooler rad and lines.You still running the stock G60 intercooler or FMIC? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 6, 2017 front mount, wagner replica golf g60 theres pics in my thread Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 6, 2017 Cool I'll take a look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) It had been a while since I've gone thru your build thread, went thru it again and love what you did to engine bay, really cleans it up. Also love your choice of wheel! Where did you relocate the fuse box? Edited March 7, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 7, 2017 Fuse box and ecu still in original positions STU175 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 7, 2017 The wiring for lighting and power is routed through chassis leg the rest just rerouted. I wanted to do as much as I could without cutting and lengthening the original loom. The only wiring I had to lengthen was coil and expansion tank and I remade the starter and alternator power cables and earth's also STU175 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) Like the reroute through chassis idea, did you eliminate cruise control? I have no issues with redoing or lengthening wires, if done properly it won't be an issue. Can't remember if you replaced the heater core while you had the dash out? Eventually when the 1.8L 20V G60 is built I'm going with a MegasquirtII management system, a whole new megasquirt harness and will strip away the ECU wires from the OEM harness. The idea is to rebuild the 1.8L 8V G60 with the first AEB block so I can get the car on the road sooner. Then concentrate on the 20V. build. LOL just re-looked at your picture of the bay, keep forgetting this is right hand drive car. :bonk: You guys drive on the correct side of the road right! Edited March 7, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 7, 2017 never had cruise control. i never took the dash out in the end just lower panels gave enough access. i just didnt want to have even more of it apart at that stage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 25, 2017 Stu do you have a part# for the windshield washer fluid tank you used in the relocation? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STU175 0 Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) the filler neck is off a mk5 golf and the tank at the bottom is a universal one off ebay 1.2litre http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Washer-Bottle-Tank-Repair-Kit-12v-1-2L-with-Front-Rear-VW-Golf-Passat-Polo-/391729091117?hash=item5b34df922d:g:9-cAAOSw4A5YyRwG the original pump fitted in perfect Edited March 25, 2017 by STU175 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 25, 2017 Thanks mate for the info! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) Bought an AWU intake manifold for my AEB 1.8L 20V. G60 build, it came with phenolic transition gasket but was missing the small port metal gasket is #058129717D the correct part number? Stripped: Prepped: Baking in the Oven :thumbleft: Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 29, 2017 (edited) Not pleased on how it turned out, stripping it and starting over minus the wrinkle paint. Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northendroid 10 Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) Picked these up tonight from an Ottawa VDubbing forum member, Eibach Pro-Kit Edited June 30, 2017 by Northendroid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites