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Yash

Fitting speakers into the back of a Corrado

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Hi,

 

The corrado is finally booked into the bodyshop for a respray this wednesday so now im finished with the bodywork Im starting to to think about the interior.

 

I've got 6.5" components going into the front when i get the door pods. I want to put some 6x9's in the rear just not sure where to put them. I dont want to put them on the parcel shelf cos i'ce got a 15" sub going into the boot.

 

Ideally i would mount them in the rear quarter cards but there arent any holes in the metal that a big enough for the magnet of the speaker to go through.

 

Has anyone else mounted speakers in the back of their C and how have you got around this problem.

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

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I used to have 6x9s in my rear quarters, I could sell you the pods if you are interested.

I would do you a swap for a pair of quarter cards with out hole in black. PM me

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I used to have 6x9s in my rear quarters, I could sell you the pods if you are interested.

I would do you a swap for a pair of quarter cards with out hole in black. PM me

 

the rear cards i've got are grey im afraid. have u got pictures of the pods?

 

thanks

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I wouldn't put 6x9s in those flimsy old rear cards anyway.

 

All you need is a pair of strong 2 ways at the front and a sub. Anything else is excess baggage not contributing anything worthy to the sound.

 

K

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I've got Infinity Kappa 6.5" in the front of my golf and infinity kappa 6x9's in the rear door cards both are amped. When i have just the 6.5" speakers running it doesnt sound any where near as good as when i have the both 6.5's and 6x9's running.

 

I wouldnt mount the 6x9's in the cards only, i'd create a build behind the card to strengthen the speakers. In the back of the golf i've created a mount out of wood and the 6x9's are solid and sound really good.

 

Could possibly put components in the rear of the C but i prefer the sound of 6x9's in the rear of a car.

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Best thing to do then is take the rear cards off, line the arch cavity with a bin liner, get some fibre glass and mould the cavity shape onto the bin liner. Wait to cure, remove the fibre glass cabinet when dry. Coat the entire rear of the card with fibre glass and epoxy resin to stiffen it up, then attach the FG cabinet to the card. That way the 6x9s will have something rigid to work on, and that is largely where the sound quality comes from in cars, the mounting. You'll need to dynamat the panel too and fit glue some egg foam to the cabinet to reduce standing waves.

 

I prefer the 2 way upfront approach with just bass at the back but you need to be choosy with speakers and mounting, hence the Audioscape builds.

 

And of course, good amplification is a must!

 

K

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Best thing to do then is take the rear cards off, line the arch cavity with a bin liner, get some fibre glass and mould the cavity shape onto the bin liner. Wait to cure, remove the fibre glass cabinet when dry. Coat the entire rear of the card with fibre glass and epoxy resin to stiffen it up, then attach the FG cabinet to the card. That way the 6x9s will have something rigid to work on, and that is largely where the sound quality comes from in cars, the mounting. You'll need to dynamat the panel too and fit glue some egg foam to the cabinet to reduce standing waves.

 

I prefer the 2 way upfront approach with just bass at the back but you need to be choosy with speakers and mounting, hence the Audioscape builds.

 

And of course, good amplification is a must!

 

K

 

damn, sounds like loads of work. thanks for the advice tho. will have to post up some pictures of the car wen its done, but the way things are goin i dont think that'l be for some time.

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It is a lot of work, and very smelly!

 

I made a Fibreglass cabinet for my mate's Fiat X/19 yonks ago. The only place we could put the sub was behind the driver's seat in a cavity. The car stank of resin for a month afterwards, but it was worth it.

 

All this work ensures you get the best sound and the outside of the car isn't embarrassingly shaking and rattling like a Saxo with two 15" subs in it.

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I prefer the 2 way upfront approach with just bass at the back but you need to be choosy with speakers and mounting, hence the Audioscape builds.

 

And of course, good amplification is a must!

 

K

 

I agree with Kev there.

 

Got Kenwood 7 x 10's in a custom MDF shelf with amplifier, but components in front with no amplifier.

There is just too much "sound" coming from the rear and not enough up front.

Of course I could always get an amplifier for the front but I think the "split" approach works best.

 

For my next car (if I ever get one) will def be 2-ways up front with bass in the boot.

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I prefer the 2 way upfront approach with just bass at the back but you need to be choosy with speakers and mounting, hence the Audioscape builds.

 

And of course, good amplification is a must!

 

K

 

I agree with Kev there.

 

Got Kenwood 7 x 10's in a custom MDF shelf with amplifier, but components in front with no amplifier.

There is just too much "sound" coming from the rear and not enough up front.

Of course I could always get an amplifier for the front but I think the "split" approach works best.

 

For my next car (if I ever get one) will def be 2-ways up front with bass in the boot.

 

I've got a 15" rockford in the boot so got loads of bass in the back. Only having components running makes the car sound overly bassy, thats why i need the 6x9's. I've got the 6x9's set up to only run only the high end low frequencies & the mid and high frequencies so the sub takes care of all low low stuff (the sub goes down to 20hz)

 

I'd put the 6x9's in the parcel shelf but i dont really want a parcel shelf, I like having the boot open and if i did put the speakers in the shelf bass from the sub would distort any speakers put in the parcel shelf.

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Best thing to do then is take the rear cards off, line the arch cavity with a bin liner, get some fibre glass and mould the cavity shape onto the bin liner. Wait to cure, remove the fibre glass cabinet when dry. Coat the entire rear of the card with fibre glass and epoxy resin to stiffen it up, then attach the FG cabinet to the card. That way the 6x9s will have something rigid to work on, and that is largely where the sound quality comes from in cars, the mounting. You'll need to dynamat the panel too and fit glue some egg foam to the cabinet to reduce standing waves.

K

 

something along these lines then......

 

Sounded quite reasonable too considering there was no sub in the boot. (these were the genesis 6x9 subs)

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Good stuff Yalan. That's exactly what I meant. Neutrik connectors and Genesis 6 x 9s..... a man after my own heart :wink:

 

I disagree about components + bass sounding too bassy. Depends what speakers you use at the front and how you mount and isolate them. I've got SEAS Lotus 6.5" components in Audioscape door builds and a 38 litre ported box with a 10" SEAS Lotus sub in it. That goes down to 25hz and has been set up to have real authority in the 35-40hz region, which are the frequencies drowned out by road and exhaust rumble. An Alpine MRV340 drives them all and the crossovers and gains have been carefully optimised with a real time analyser.

 

At the front the door cards have been sealed to the door with draught excluder foam tape, the door skins have been braced with dynamat and a section of egg box foam glued onto it to reduce standing waves. The door membranes have been replaced with thicker VW foam and letterboxed to allow the mids to vent into the door.

 

The tweeters are in the factory dash holes but pointing at the listeners, e.g passenger points at driver and vice versa.

 

It's a proper hi-fi sound without being over the top.

 

And of course weight and ICE clutter is kept to a minimum and apart from the Audioscape pods, it's all invisible to prying eyes.

 

K

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looks good. how does it sound from behind the door cards?

 

yeah - not bad actually. Took a little while to stop things resonating but got there eventually! The 1/2 covered cone didn't seem to be a problem though - perhaps because there was a gap of >3". With the grille in place you'd have to own the car to recognise it wasn't OEM!

 

Benefit is that it keeps the boot entirely free of electronics (apart from the 6 channel genesis!). Which in turn keeps the other half sweet & the boot available for tescos mush.

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Got Polk components up front - just running from my Pioneer DEH P6000 and JBL 6x4 in the back. JBL's are running from an ickle Sony 50w RMS AMP.. had visions of it sounding shi&e.. but it actually works pretty well... I don't listen to much dance music these days, so I don't require the boom factor ....besides the Polk components were £240!! So too broke for any more kit lol

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