Bruno 4 Posted December 7, 2020 (edited) Do not need a working version - in fact if its broken thats would be fine for me because I need to open it up anyway. It must be from a UK Corrado which had ABS TEVES02 (pre-facelift) or TEVES04 (post facelift, post distributor on the VR6) at the time it was removed. I need to break it down anyway, study the membrane mechanics and understand how the incoming pushrod (that links via a clevis pin to the brake pedal) is assisted. What I'm looking for isn't in the google pictures. Will pay for the postage, or collect if you live anywhere close to Orpington. So if someone has one spare, lying about, rusting and would be open to packing and posting it - I have a good use for it. Thank you. Edited December 7, 2020 by Bruno Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1xshaunx1 27 Posted December 7, 2020 Are you wanting the whole system, the servo or the abs unit, not that I can help with that but it might identify what you are after specifically I suppose it’s in the title Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruno 4 Posted December 9, 2020 Just the servo. I've been thinking about Kevin's suspicion that the fulcrum point on our brake pedals is wrong - and it leads to a long foot movement before anything happens. I have an idea for a simple modification - but to understand whether the idea is valid I need to cut through into an existing servo and measure up the actuator gaps. Its just a hunch - and if it works we can all benefit. Dont need the ABS unit. I'm in the process of planning a swap from TEVES04 to TEVES 20 - but also want to fix the problem with the length we have to push our pedals before anything responds. It could be something really quite simple - the second actuator is not designed to move for the first 0.8 cm in the servo - which results in 3 inches of movement on the pedal before anything happens. On my daughter's Saab 9-5 the internal play between the two actuators is 1mm - which leads to a 0.7" slack on the bottom of the brake pedal. If I'm right, a longer clevis pin fitted to adjustable thread on the first actuator rod and well measured stop and clear points will do it. But I need to check this before causing lots of people to crash their cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
