Richard92

Well.. I have now run trhough all the electrical tests as per workshop manual, except the operational checks of the valves, as I felt insecure of how to do them with the bridging and multimeter. All electrical checks and values are OK. The exact sequence of the abs light on cold startup is; ABS light on on startup, ABS light goes out, brake warning light goes on, brake warning light goes off, ABS light comes on and stays on. Any takers?

Just a simple flush of the 2 front circuits and the rear circuit, or is there a way to flush the pump itself as well?

i found it: 357927810. Just to make sure: this is solely a electrical connector, and changing it will not open the hydraulic part of the brake system in any way?

I have tried to blink codes, no luck. The test led just gives a constant light when i connect it, and it wont start blinking after using the jumper wire either. Weird. Will try to connect the Vagcom after christmas time, as my mate who has the vagcom cable will be out of town for christmas holidays. Tho, I am unsure if the vagcom communicates with the 2x2 with only 3 wires, but we will give it a go anyways. I use the car daily, the brake system is creating pressure and works, just the ABS part that wont work. Will try measuring voltage on the sensors tomorrow, but the resistance checks of all 4 is now good. Where is the pedal position sensor located, and what does it do? If its not to expensive I might just change it as a precaution. Can I do any electrical testing on it to see wether it is defective or not`? Do you have the PN for it? Im also going to look through the bentley to see how i can manually measure the solenoids, im sure i've seen some abs fault finding guide in there.

So.. I have so far replaced the 2 front sensors, as I measured them as dead. Also swapped the ABS Relay, because it was crap and the ABS ecu was burnt, so I replaced that as well.. The only difference from before to now, is that since I now have a functioning ABS ECU, the ABS light comes on after the system tests itself, not right away with when the power comes on. After startup i feel a "click" in the pedal and the light comes on. Does anyone have an idea what may cause this?

Well sh*t.. I remember some guy welding a socket in place of the plastic tab, to hold the cable hosing firm where it should be, so i was hoping the extender portion really didnt matter.

Anyone? I really dont feel like fitting this if it just going to wind the window almost all the way up..

Hello! As my window cable snapped i had to get a new regulator. It arrived today and it looks like the yellow clip is broken? If you look at the picture the clips is still there, but a part of it is broken. Is this what people are having problems with? Or is the problem when the clip breaks and leaves the cable free? -Richard

Does this apply for LHD cars as well? The ABS relay i was talking about is on top of the fusebox under the dash. Number 14. EDIT: Maybe it only applies to VR models?

Maybe i'll give that a try, when i get my hands on a cable again. Cab port latency be set on an USB port? What should the resistance be? Also, if i slighty push the ABS relay, the light shuts of, then turns back on when i let go of the relay, normal or worth swapping the relay?

Hello. Corrado g60 1991. My ABS light is constantly on. Yesterday we tried reading codes using a vagcom with a 2x2 adapter, no luck. It stated that it could not communicate. From what I understand this usually means that the ABS ecu is shot? Before i go out and buy a new ABS ecu, i would like to try blinking the codes. I found a procedeure on this on the canadian forum, could anyone confirm if this is the correct approach?: [ATTACH=CONFIG]82591[/ATTACH] Connect the led test light between the +12VOLTS and the ENGINE CONTROL. Using the jumper wire connect the the - ground to the ENGINE CONTROL for at least 4 seconds then disconnect. The beginning of the fault code sequence is a single flash followed by a 2.5 second pause. The next flash series is the first fault code. Fault codes consist of 4 digits -1st digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF -2nd digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF -3rd digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF -4th digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF Each 4 digit code will keep repeating until the fuse is inserted in the fuel pump relay again. When you remove the fuse the second time the next fault code will flash, this will continue until you insert the fuse again. The end-of-fault display is signaled by a 2.5 second ON light then 2.5 seconds OFF. This is known as code 0000 and will continue until the ignition is turned off.

I have one of these http://www.mega.es/catalogo_automocion/catalogo_automocion_detalle.php?nIdCategoria=3&sIdioma=en Very happy with it, with lowering control system, and very silent wheels.

Hi! When i started the car to go home after work today, i noticed that i had no brake boost whatsoever, and suddenly the brake fluid was to high. After some swearing i got the abs fuse out and it was gone, so i replaced it. Everything worked as a charm, so I drove home carefully. Anyway, to the question; since the abs pump worked fine driving to work and the fuse probarly went poof when i shut down the car, is there anything i should check? Like a list of things to go through for my own safety, before i write it off as an one time incident which caused a blown fuse? Cheers Richard

I used heavy duty polyethylene plastic sheets and strong waterproof tape, then a round with the heat gun to shrink it tight and snug to the door. The black gummy stuff that is there is a better choice than tape, but I couldn't get my hands on some. I think VW might have a PN for it actually.

There is supposed to be a white plastic clip on the door handle, to keep it from coming out from the door. Looks like so: