robhearne

It will tilt with the allen key, but if I turn it the other way the back of the roof starts to lower and then there's considerable resistance so I suspect that something in the mechanism has broken. The functionality of the motor is very eratic. I've seen varying information on the compatiblity of the motors with other VW models. Is there a definative guide somewhere?

Ok, so I've now found a new problem - the sunroom no longer works. I'm pretty sure that it used to tilt but not slide (common problem I know) but now it doesn't do anything. I've taken the motor out and it will run most of the time when using the front-back action on the switch, and some of the time when using the tilt open\close action. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, I'm guessing that maybe it has logic which only allows it to run depending on what postion it thinks the roof is in? I've refitted the motor and I can hear the microswitches click in every direction of the switch but it does not try to run. I can open it in tilt mode using the manual override, but this doesn't give me access to the drainage holes. Is there any way to manually slide the sunroof open?

Thank for the link. I now have some on order. I ran lot of water down the door glass with a hose and I did find one area on the drivers side which was letting in water, so I've re-sealed that. Most of the water is coming in on the passengers side though.

Do you happen to have any photos showing the location of the sunroof drain?

The door cards are off at the moment and they look perfect. I'm going to pour some warer down the window just to be sure. The Corrado badge definately needs attention as it's come away from the body at one side. Is anywhere selling the clipes and grommets? I'd be suprised if it was just this though as quote a lot of water is finding its way into the boot. I plan on getting into the boot myself while it's close and have someone pour water around it.

I must be the oldest newbie in town having joined in 2004. But I guess if you only post 50 odd times in 20 years then you're still classed as a newbie! 🙂 Anyway, I'm trying to get my VR6 watertight so that I can use it more. I have water ingress into the passenger footwell and also the boot, but it's the former that I'm trying to tackle currently... I've been doing research online and it seems that the most likely culprit is the drainage around the fresh air intake. I'm assuming that I need to take the plastic cover off in order to remove the airbox and replace the seal. It seems that I need to take the section of scuttle cover off because the rear of the plastic airbox cover is secured under it, but I'm vary waring of breaking the cover and the clips as I know how hard it will be to replace them. I've been able to pry the front of scuttle cover up from under the metal clips and I've removed the screw in the corner, but it's still held in place by something underneath, which I assume are plastic clips? Are there any tricks to removing the cover without breaking anything? Any exploded diagrams would be very useful also so that I can see what I'm dealing with. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the replies guys, It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion. As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing. I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option. I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀 It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,

...the engine. That is the question I'm deliberating over. My '95 Corrado VR6 has been in storage for 7 or so years and I'm seeking to get it back on the road. It's currently with a specialist garage who took it for an MOT and it only failed on rusty break lines and emissions (quite a few advisories though and some things that were missed completely like an ABS). The garage have assessed the car and said that it's got a really good body (v.little rust and mostly original paint) and interior (leather) but it does need a whole heap of work (probably 10k if I had everything done, not including cosmetic items such as respray). I definitely want to get the car back on the road but I can't justify throwing £10k at it right now so the work will have to be done in stages. As I alluded to earlier, my main decision right now it what to do about the engine. It's done 120k miles and was consuming a fair amount of oil before I took it off the road. The garage are recommending a full rebuild at £3.5k (assuming the head and block are ok). There obviously is an issue with the amount of oil that it's consuming, and that's probably the reason for the emissions issue (the CAT could well have been killed by an oil leak), so some internal engine work seems likely to correct that issue, I'm just not sure if it needs to be a full rebuild. I am planning on using the car as my daily, although that only amounts to only a handful of miles a week as I work from home. So I doubt I'll do more than a couple of thousand miles a year, but I still need it to be reliable. Popular opinion seems to be that a VR6 engine will need a rebuild after 150k miles, but I doubt this car will ever see much over 150k miles if I'm only doing 2k miles a year. So I'm not sure whether to go with the garage's recommendation of the full rebuild, as that should give me trouble free running (as far as the engine is concerned) for the rest of the cars life (or until they ban big petrol engines), or alternatively see if there's a cheaper route just to fix the oil and emissions issue, but then who knows what could be round the corner next? BTW, although I don't intend on selling the car, value has to be a consideration. A rebuilt engine is obviously going to increase the potential resell price, but clearly not to the tune of £3.5k. Any insight or advise anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. Robin

I don't mean to hyjack this thread, but whilst we're on the subject of turbos... I've been thinking about getting my VR6 turbo'd. Can anyone give me a ballpark figure for how much it's likely to cost to get a kit fitted? Also looking for some advice on who to go to. I've used JMR before for a suspension overhead but I don't know how good he is on turbo conversions. I've just looked up G-Werks as they've been mentioned earlier in this thread, they are just as close as JMR but judging from their website they look a bit 'G60 only'?? Cheers, Robin

How well do you reckon this works? http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9108

Silver C pulling out of the Shell petrol station on the A264 near East Grinstead. Only spotted at last minute as it was dark so didn't have time to flash.

It had a service at the end of April (which was before I owned it) and it had an oil change then (well they charged for one at least)

Just lately my C has developed a faint ticking noise from the engine. It's only audible at engine speeds over about 2500 rpm and it fades in and out in a sort of rhythmic pattern. I'm pretty sure that the noise continues when I come off the throttle. Anyone got any ideas? I hope that's it's nothing to do with the timing chain, it's only(?)done 77,000 miles. Tappets maybe? P.S. It seems to go away if I turn the radio up :D

The other alternative is to buy an iPod and a Dension ICE-Link. I've got a mStation in the Ghia and an iPod in the Corrado and I prefer the iPod option. The iPod also has the advantage of being removable so it's not just confined to the car (you can't take your mStation on holiday with you :) )

I could be me (I go to Crawley every couple of weeks or so) but I've only had these wheels on the car for a couple of weeks (standard Speedlines before that) and I've not been to Crawley in that time, so if the car you've seen had the same wheels then it's probably someone else.