trebor

Ok ...wire number 4) must be the power source for the radio but there are 4 other wires one of them must be a earth. Whats the point in having a fusebox when the radio is not going through it..... It does not make sense......?

Me and the Misses were on our way back from B&Q in whitstable. When smoke thick burnt plastic smell started choking us... We were on a brow of a B road hill. Stoped car and Misses just jumped striaght out with out a word. Apparently images of volvos 4X4 bursting into flames (on "watchdog" last week)...Anyway engine stoped but key in ignition still pouring smoke. Removed key poped bonnet and got out.. Engine bay seemed ok........ Smoke started to clear........... Removed stereo unit.. There are two plugs coming from car one for speakers and the other for power/earth. The power plug was melted the wires are as follows; 1)red with white 2) brown 3) grey and blue 4) brown 5) blue and white... Ok..! wire 4) brown is melted there is no plastic coating left AT ALL. As Im still at the road side at this point. I trace the wire as far as possible inside dash. Behind 3 Dial heating which pushes inward. Remove cig lighter,ash tray etc. Also remove lower trim under steering wheel. Cut All stereo wires pulled them through to lower side of dash and tape ends..Its hard to see where the burnt wire goes after that.. So decide to try and get home....There's no smoke so every thing seems Ok. I have totally traced wire from stereo to ignition (riped out now) Is this right there's is no fuse. It did (past tense) run from ignition switch around the back of fuse box. Across steering column and up the stereo. All other wiring around the stereo wire is abit black other wise is ok. What the hell has made it melt like that... I have recently changed the ignition switch and swop the stereo a few times. Im going to need to run another wire from the Ignition plug or may be striaght from the battery would that work...? Which is the best way to power a basic stereo Regards Rob

Pics od old Ignition switch and two Blots

Igniton switch 6no905865 £17.68 2X Bolt n90420101 £1.70 total plus vat £24.77 Ok changed switch took about 2 hours I can definetly recommend the use of a cushion and the smallest philips and flat headed screw driver. Start fine every time 100 percent. However I had these two supplied bolts over. God know where they go any idea.. Thanks Rob

Having a problem starting no matter how hot or cold same problem.. Insert key into ignition turn off alarm with fob. Turn key to position 1 both warning lights Oil/coolant flash. Then coolant light goes out. Key to position 2 engine fires and turns. Revs increase and decrease (lovely idle) Release key, engine dies.. Engine will start if throttle is used to keep revs high.. Have checked Relays seating postions cleaned oil vapour from around butterfly Read ignition switch stevemac/henry how to+ wD40 Am I on the money here.. its driving me around the bend

Im running 268 shrick cams at the moment. There coming out soon if your interested

Ok.....Im back from stealthracing. The car made it the 375 mile round trip at a greatly reduced speed.. I drive it in, pop the bonnet and begin to explain the problem. Basicly sounds likes a bucket of bolts.. So were standing around listening to the engine. The tech guy chin in hand half listening to engine and half listening to me explaining how worried I am "Its been of the road for 2 weeks". etc etc. So you can image how :mad: :cry: :D I feel when the problem is a easy fix. On top of the schrick manifold there is a rubber vacuum stop and hose. Light finger pressure on this and the noise stops. I couldnt believe it. Apparently there is a metal rod thats vibrating inside the manifold. The noise it makes sound bloody terrible. The tec guy said they have seen a couple like this. The only way to stop it is to drill out the hole and change the rod for a better fit...?? If it stops that noise Ill get in done. The misfire was a combination of the 268s, dirty idle control on induction side.. ..... trebor

so.... if this is the case, whats the worst case scenario. Ive taken the car off road until the 1st of june. However Ive got to drive it 189miles to stealthracing is this possible--- Im not sure...?

A friend said he had not heard the noise before. However one of the cam followers could be cracked or lose . As the followers and cams are new it doesnt make sense.

The noise is most present at idle. As you increase the throttle the noise is less apparent. Less rather than more. If you get my drift... When driving it sounds and performs great. The cams and schrick has been fitted by stealthracing mid december 2004

Hi Have problem with un-healthy noise coming from top of engine. Sounds like a cam problem of sorts. I have 268 cams and a schrick manifold. There is no loss in power. However the idle is 550rpm and has a very small misfire.. :( Im worried some things about to let go :(

I also have a friend whose has a civic type. This guys a copper and wants to rice me. I have a vr6+268+shrickmanfold 215bhp 211 lb torque Who will win 0-60 and 1/4mile

sorry. vr6 corrado

On the same lines. Can anyone help with a coolant change. WHere is the drain plug to drain expansion tank and radiator.

trebor with the most expensive corrado ever. Its my first name backwards-- Up for sale again