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You can buy an adapter to fit an airline to the spark plug hole (under a tenner) This will allow you to pressurise the cylinder. Then you need a mechanics stethoscope (also under a tenner) Turn the engine to the correct place when the valves would normally be closed. Pressurise the cylinder Then listen (using the stethoscope) down the dipstick tube, the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. You should hear air escaping down one of the above This will tell you were the fault lies without stripping the head

If anyone needs a compressor clutch coil, clutch bearings or complete clutch for a Diava or Alpinair VR system i have some spare. Also recirc motors / gears, reciever dryers and pressure switches

3 more reasons to avoid trees (and Fords)

You should not need a pollen filter if you have ac and actually use it - The evaporator will filter out any pollen and it will disapper as condensate down your drain tube. Most manufacturers are now not fitting pollen filters to new cars if fitted with clutchless compressors. Pollen filters can cause blower fans to burn out in under 12 months if not kept clean.

does anyone know if you can buy complete lock sets for a corrado OE or aftermarket will do And ideas on price? at the moment i have 3 keys - 1 for doors, 1 for glovebox and 1 for ignition. Basically i could do with 1 key for all and my ignition switch is also on the way out. So a complete lock set would be good Thanks in advance

Ok give me a coulpe of weeks as i am flat out at work at the moment - And we have just changed our CAD system so the badges will need to be re-drawn Watch this space!

Have a look here - http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22821 i have now perfected the badge but the natural colour is white. They are made of a laser cured resin that is very simular to plastic. If anyone is interested i can make some more PS thanks to the guy who supplied the photos after i made them the first time making me start again! No idea what the font is though - it is based on the same font as most dub rear badges from that era

the tubing is cheap about 5 quid for what you need. You say your system needs regassing - is it empty? If not you need to get the gas recovered by a specialist. I whould not advise removal of the pipes for more than a few hours unless the system can be properly capped. The reciever drier should be changed every three years as a service item. Moisture in the system will react with the PAG oil in the system a cause acid - not good. Hope these short answers help you

AC compressors work with an electromagnetic clutch assembly - These basically have 3 components - 1 - Clutch rotor - this is what the belt runs on 2 - Coil - This is an electro magnet 3 - Armature plate - This is a sprung steel plate that when the magnet is energised contacts the rotor (engaging drive to the compressor) With no 12v feed to the coil an air gap should exist betwwen the rotor and the armature plate (normally 0.3mm - 0.8mm) The air gap is adjusted by removing the small bolt at the center of the armature plate and placing shims behind it. Check that you havent got an electrical problem first by unplugging the terminal from the compressor If you want to check your coil if should measure approx 4ohms to the comp body

Andy - dont forget to change the oil in the compressor as its hydroscopic so if no caps have been fitted it will need replacing. To quickly check it should be almost clear (unless a UV dye has been added) Also it may be worth flushing evap / hoses etc to remove old oil and possible debris. Storm - how are you getting on with your system?

yes very important because a charger is a very big lump of expensive metal to fall off. Saying that the tie bar was missing off my corrado when i bought it, probrably missed off when a new charger was fitted - its got one now though. Just to add the small tie brackets on manifolds (inlet / exhaust etc 16v / g60 etc) do the same thing so dont miss them off if they should be there

The support bar is not to stop the charger twisting under load. It is a tie bar to change (in this case increase) the natural frequency of the charger on its bracket to over approx 30% of the natural engine frequency (g60 is about 200hz) Without this tie bar the natural frequency of the charger to mount bracket will decrease and could even come close to the engines natural frequency. If this happens your charger will wobble and eventually fall off when the mount bracket fails. On a more happy note these tie bars are easy to make if you dont want to buy one

joebloggsvr69 - thanks for those pics they help no end, as its almost impossible to get correct detail from that photo i had. At the moment I do not plan going into mass production of this badge as i have enough projects of my own at the moment. This was only intended to help my sisiter out and help cover the damaged paintwork on her car. She will however have a storm badge worth far more than a complete car and if it gets stolen again another is only a buttom push away.

here is the badge against the 1 / 1 photo i used to draw it - character spacing is slightly out and im not totally sure on the letter connecting detail, depth and bevel rad etc These will be corrected when i actually see a pukka badge so you will not be able to tell any differance - this is only prototype stage after all PS - The angle of the S looks wrong because the paper is not flat