Niges16V

I wouldn't worry about it just yet as it can take a few days/weeks to get back to normal. I had the same problem after bushes etc changed by a VW specialist (JMR) and it took about a month to sort itself as I don't do many miles. Rado's have some strange quirks that even the experts can't explain! As long as you can stop get out and enjoy some corners!!

if you have a add-on headlight loom then it is likely that the relay has suffered water ingress and is shorting out. Mine did this as the relays were in front of the battery, I've now replaced them and gooked all the contacts with silicon and housed them in a secondary enclosure, so should be OK now.

that will be the fuse in the motor, costs a few pence and someone to solder it on. Think there is something in the knowledge base.

How strange, I had a similar problem yesterday. Unit beeps a few times, shows some life but doesn't actually work. Pulled it out and checked that it had 12v, which it did so thought my HU was goosed. Dug out my old one to use in the meantime and I had the same problem with this too. Turned out to be that one of the 12V supplies (there's 2!) had come loose so wasn't able to power the unit properly. I suggest you check your connections again, then if no joy take a supply from the ciggy lighter and try that.

you need the disks for the late Golf VR (Highline). I assume you also got the carriers off the Golf as this is the important bit! You also need different hoses which I guess you have already noticed. It's a great mod to do, one of the best for the 'night & day' experience!!

Does this reseal the leather with that nice smooth surface? I imagine after sanding it down it would leave an almost fluffy texture of the leather. The reason I ask is that my steering wheel is feeling a bit rough after many years of sweaty paws and strong sunlight so just thought this might give it a new lease of life??

All fixed now :D John @ JMR traced it to poor connections & wiring in a number of places which was effectivly starving the ECU of power. Not that serious after all, but obviously tricky to diagnose & fix for a novice like me. Thanks for all your advice guys, so much more effective than a Haynes manual!!

The DTA might be a plan (if I knew what is was!), don't mind spending a bit more to upgrade! The fuel pump isn't kicking in at all. We got it running by shorting the relay but it still didn't fire. Besides, if it was the fuel relay then the others would still be kicking in wouldn't they?

I think that most the Golf's are OBD2. Didn't our old friend Trig have probs with his ECU (same year as mine I think) and ended up converting to OBD2 at great expense? Just starting to worry that it may be an expensive fix which will open the debate as to whether it is worth it! I'm on 155k with no evidence that the chains have been done, add these 2 factors together and it's probably mega bucks! Maybe a 24V conversion??? or am I jumping ahead of myself a bit??? :lol:

Thanks for the detailed responce Kev, most helpful as always! Yes I have been able to use VAG-COM in the past with my ebay opto cable with USB converter, and it also works on the wifes Golf III. The error I got was : Address 03 Controller: Note: Excessive Comm Errors So you could be right about the comms wire, but just a bit coincidental that it breaks and I have this breakdown. I've spent a week trying to figure it out and it's just getting more complicated. The only thing I could try now is a ECU swap as you explained, but as I do not have access to another and the weather is not ideal for outdoor mechanics I am going to have to rely on Mr Mitchels expertise.

No, don't have a spare ECU VAG-COM just comes up with "too many comms errors", it did find the ABS details at one point but then just reported "too many errors" again. The mobile chappy didn't have any luck with his "£8000" diagnostic kit either. If I take the cover off the 109 relay and close the contact manually, will this work? I could then try VAG-COM again. But too be honest, I'm going beyond my limited knowledge at this point and therefore wouldn't know what is good or bad. I've booked a car trailer for the morning and will take it to JMR in Littlehampton. If it is the ECU, is it a case of simply getting another from a breakers and bolting it on?? I doubt it! Oh, forgot to say that I have found the wiring diagram on the Russian site and concluded that the crank sensor is OK (maybe).

I had previously tested the resistance across pins 1&2 at 565 ohms so assumed the crank sensor to be OK, but to be sure I borrowed a scope and got these results: Pin 1 Red - 3.58V @ 10Hz ac wave! Pin 2 Green - nowt, just a bit of noise Pin 3 Black - as above So I guess the problem lies deeper within as there is no 12Vdc getting to the sensor. Can anyone shed some light on this or at least provide a wiring diagram?? Getting a bit tired of this now :(

Booo. Checked the ignition switch & crank sensor last night and they seem fine. Gave in and called a mobile mechanic out this morning who basically double checked what |had and came to the conclusion that it was the alarm. Called out the alarm chaps who promptly bypassed the system and still no joy. So I'm £85 down and got nowhere! Any suggestions? or should | hire a trailer and tow it to a Rado specialist as I have no confidence in Joe Bloggs mechanics.

Nope, no extras, just a key & fob as the jingle jangles wind me up. I've even stuck fluffy stuff on the steering cowl to stop the fob clonking it while driving along :D Anyone know how to test the switch, or should I just try to 'hot wire' the car with the switch removed??

I did actually change the ignition switch last year along with the 109 relay when I had the same problem but intermittant. It was from GSF so it could be possible that it has failed again. I will try to test it tonight by removing the wire connector block and shorting out the pins to create some nice sparks which should start the engine - according to what I see on the telly :D Thanks for the offer of the sensor, I may well take you up on that after i've checked it out with a scope. I'm going to cancel the alarm bypass as it is £50 and doesn't sound as though it is the problem. If I can't figure it out in the next couple of days I think I had better tow it to a garage.