a_riot

On 8/14/2020 at 7:48 PM, Harry-vr6 said:

Next thing i have a slight drip from the After-Run Coolant Pump now I have seen a few posts on the net about deleting this, is this a good route to go down ?

I wouldn't.  If you want, hook up VCDS and drive around on a hot day, and watch the temps go up after turning the car off.  It can take quite a bit of time to get temps down after the engine is off, and the combination of the pump and after run fan accomplish this.  

 

• Front struts are very close to the firewall, so the strut bar up there isn't super useful as it's already pretty stiff.
  

 

I would agree.

 

• Front sway bars, on the other hand, can certainly help improve grip if the car is pushed (say... around a track).
  

 

Depends on the terrain you are on. A smooth track, might help a bit, on a poorly maintained road, it may make for less traction.

 

• Rear struts are in the middle of nowhere, and the corrado has a much larger opening than modern cars do, therefore a rear strut bar could (theoretically) be useful.
  

 

I would say theoretically only. The rear is so light anyway I don't think its a real concern.

 

• Corrados aren't as stiff as we all think. (At least compared to modern cars.) If you jack up the car the door on that side is difficult to open, meaning there is certainly SOME flex.
  

 

 

So what are all of your thoughts?

Those are my thoughts :)

Ah yes, there it is. Didn't even need to remove the hatch lid. Turns out the switch works, just seemed to get dirty and stuck. Some spray in there and toggling it back and forth seemed to get it working, hopefully for another 25 years :) Thanks for the tip!

What an obvious suggestion - thanks for that! And ive recently had a new Toad installed...

Would this also allow you to open the door from the handle in an emergency as opposed to trying to get hold of the fob again?

Not sure what a Toad is. The Viper just piggybacks on top of the OE locking system, so all behavior is the same as before. Other than keyless entry, I have it programmed to keep the relay active so that if the windows or sunroof is open they get closed as well when I hit the lock button. It's come in handy in the winter when I want to run into a store and leave the car running but locked. I just take the fob with me and leave the key in the ignition. The only caveat is not to stick your head into the open window to do something and accidentally hit the fob button when leaning up against the car. I narrowly missed getting my head stuck in there.

Mine has apparently failed and so the light in the luggage compartment isn't turning off and is draining the battery. Does anyone know where this switch is located? The Bentley says "hatch lid" but I haven't been able to spot it. It looks like this:

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/562204_x800.jpg

I've been thinking about this for a while. Is there any way to install a rocker switch to lock the doors when in the car? I've got a few spare switches i was thinking of using

Have you not installed a keyless entry system? I put a cheapie Viper in mine and use the key fob to lock the doors when in the vehicle. I never actually lock the vehicle when inside, but if I did, it's easy enough.

So I took the driver door card off, and pressed the switch.. I can hear something trying to engage in the motor, and also clicking from the rear passenger card. I gave the motor a tap in case it was seized up.

If you can hear something from the motor when hitting the switch, then I'd guess its the issue with the top yellow plastic guide. It seems to get stuck in the guide channel in the up position, and then jam, so when you hit the switch the motor clicks but it can't move the window so it cuts out. To fix it you'd need to remove the regulator and get it unstuck, which may require disassembly of the gear housing to get some slack in the cable to get it to release. I did this with mine, and once I got the plastic guide unstuck, I used JB Weld plastic epoxy in the little crack that developed that caused it to jam, put it all back together, tested it outside the car, reinstalled it and it's worked fine ever since.

Latest problem, the foam backed lining has started to come away from the edges of the inner cover, the foam is virtually dust.

When I have sorted out the seal and the lining I think I might disconnect the switch! No, I will disconnect the switch!!

Cheers

Mine did the same thing recently. I bought a can of the expensive 3M headliner spray-on glue and it seems to have worked well. It was simple to pull the panel off, just two screws, then the inner panel can be pulled out. I removed all the material and glued it back on after cleaning all surfaces with IA.

Why not fix it? Usually the motor is fine, and the mechanism gets stuck at the top.

It appears to be for the rear. Are you referring to 535 801 193/194?

Sounds like the typical symptoms of a failing ignition switch.

Those motors are nearly indestructible so it's doubtful tiredness is the issue. However, they can get out of sync with the controller and act up. The last time I dealt with this was when one of the screws that was holding in the motor assembly backed out and the motor would spin but the cable wasn't engaged with the gear so the roof didn't move. Once I got that sorted, the roof wouldn't close all the way, and just stop a few inches short because where the motor thought the roof was and where the contoller did didn't match. So I would spin the motor with it disengaged to the cable, estimating how much spin I needed to get it back in sync. It took a bit of back and forth, but before too long I had it synced. Perhaps that is your issue as well.

They are cheap enough to buy, it would be difficult to make one much cheaper. Most time-saving tool I've made I use to route the door lock pin through the hole in the door card when I've taken it off and am putting it back on. It's a 4 inch piece of stiff plastic hose with an ID large enough to put over the pin, but with an OD small enough to get through the hole in the door card :)

Another tool I made is for bleeding brakes and clutch. It's a very large syringe with a long hose affixed to it that fits snugly over all the bleeders. Using it I can bleed my brakes and clutch by myself.

The tool is cheap enough if you want to save yourself some agro. Getting that ring on and off is the only part of the job that gives me any grief.

https://www.ebay.com/i/202510808498?chn=ps

I have one, but I'm in the US which may make shipping expensive.

I will be contacting Bosch tomorrow, just hope they have a definitive answer whether it is indeed a 4 bar.

I'll be surprised if you get a definitive answer. Here is the excerpt from a Pierburg catalog. You can see a 3 bar pump is listed for the 2.9 engine.

I looked into this a while ago, and the Pierburg pump that came with the car seems to be listed as a 3 bar, 4 bar and 3→4 bar depending on where you look. I doubt you need a 4 bar pump, and even if you find one listed as such, perhaps it is or perhaps it isn't. I don't think VR6 engines require a ton of pressure, and how the pump pressure is listed is also up for debate. Is 3/4 bars referring to a minimum, a maximum, or average pressure? I've never been able to find out and it doesn't seem to matter much as far as I can tell. I was looking at one listing and it said the maximum fuel pressure for the 3 bar pumps was 4 bar, and the maximum for the 4 bar is 3.8?!? So there's not a lot of clarity out there.

The Bosch pump does come with a bit of a kit and a couple of hoses, like you mentioned its all down to is it compatible with the other fittings in the tank, so I was wondering if anyone had fitted this pump to a late VR6 and had success.I will be changing it because of the fault codes, we have pretty much eliminated everything else apart from the injectors which are also getting done. Could always be a rogue bit of wiring to though I imagine.

 

Fitting instructions

 

https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/xlist/80/0986580823IN00WHCOB900.pdf

 

Cheers.

I also had to resolder the connections from the top hat to the pump. I had a cold solder joint there that was preventing the pump from running. With new solder, new hoses, and a new pump, I'm hoping I don't have to look in there any time soon. We'll see.

What oil do you use? Here is the noise from mine...not much ticking sounds.

It's just a pump, so many different fuel pumps will work, they don't have to be Corrado specific. The issue tends to be the fuel level sender more than the pump since fitment can be an issue. As long as the pump housing fits in the bayonet (mine even floated in the tank for months), and can house the sender, it should work just fine. You can even just buy the pump itself and keep the original housing and so on. If yours is working, and not making noise, I'd leave it alone. However, if you do change it out you may want to have fuel hose from the top hat to the pump on hand, as those tend to fail over time. Often enough they get replaced with regular fuel hose, not designed to be submerged, and turn into a black messy goo.

Using 10w40, at the moment, thought about changing for 10w50 or 60 as per some threads but if this works will it not simply mask the sound rather than solve it?

You would want thinner oil, not thicker. I would try some Seafoam in the engine (or similar UK product), or ATF, run it for 100 miles, and then switch to a 5-40 type of oil and see if you notice a difference. You might have a bad spring in one, thus would need replacement. Some have used Rislone engine treatment with some success but I have no experience with it.

A word of warning when you remove the slave. If you happen to use a ratchet and extension, when you undo one of the bolts, it's possible to get the head of the ratchet stuck against the long transmission bracket. If, like mine, your ratchet direction switch is on the back of the head, good luck, you're stuck! At least this can occur on the US cars.

Only when it dies completely - before that you will get difficulties getting into gear, slow pedal return or "jump" to at rest or pedal to the floor. They can show all these symptoms with no visible signs of leaking until you take it out - I had one where the rubber boot on the push rod was leaking very slightly.

 

It's easy enough to replace the slave anyway and they are not that expensive, being a thankfully common part.

For sure. You use the thing enough, you want it to feel good, and not do damage to the clutch, so a new slave cylinder is a good idea. I bleed the clutch with a large syringe and hose, and pull fluid from both the master and slave, only pumping the pedal a few times between pulls. Seems to have worked the best for me.

Done this on both my 93s and never had this issue. I used one metal OE sensor and an aftermarket plastic one, both went in with issues. My guess is that there is something stuck in there that is preventing you from installing it properly. I can't imagine jacking the car up could have any influence on it. Did mine with one side jacked up.

I have not long purchased one of these hoses and and have the old one that has a bit of brown discoloring on the small top hose.

 

They are really exspensive £90 part number 021133518H , you can order off VW heritage classics .

 

It is attached to the PCV valve, a light blue vacum valve solenoid part number 034133517 and aslo the throttle body. these are only on the late VR6 models. All you need to do is remove the one end od the air intake hose its a doddle to fit.

 

Is your hose aftermarket that you have fitted that connects from your pcv vavle to airbox hose it looks different from mine.

Neither of my 93s have this setup. I guess it only came on 95s?