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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Not allot to report in respect of look and any real upgrades, more so of trying to sort out the gremlins in the car. Had an issue with the fuel pump after a long drive it would hum for a little while so managed to get a replacement one sorted so problem solved, but have had an idling issue for some time, and a random misfire. So today managed to eliminate what we think it is, quite confident its the ISV, i did replace it as well as the vacuum pipe on the TB, Throttle position sensor turns out the new ISV was faulty too, so trying to source one at the moment. Fitted a genuine coil pack and ht leads to the car and the misfire is for the moment no more. But got the wheels back from RustyRims and has done a cracking job.
  2. 1 point
    Filling with petrol is always good when troubleshooting a non-start scenario 😉
  3. 1 point
    However, I think that the pictures show that I try to offer the best possible quality. And this brings us to the primary point of the thread. Many Corrado drivers are looking for centre console for the dashboard. We have already found a good solution for the LHD Corrados. (535 863 241 E) Many british Corrado drivers have asked if it is possible to produce this centre console for RHD Corrados as well. The part number for RHD should be 536 863 241 E. Correct? The basic question with such a complex part is of course how much demand there is. So I would like to ask you to estimate how many parts are needed at all. Greetings Chris
  4. 1 point
    Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425
  5. 1 point
    In between I also experimented with 3D printing. Especially for smaller parts 3D printing should be optimal. Unfortunately I had to realize that the quality is not good enough in my opinion. Therefore I stopped the production of some parts. Especially the clips of the speedometer are complicated to make. There are 3-4 different versions of these clips. It is almost impossible to make a universal version that fits all frames. (535858508 & 535858507) (535 827 769) Most materials used for 3D printing are simply too hard and brittle. Maybe it would be possible to assemble them once, but they would break at the latest when disassembling them.
  6. 1 point
    This was followed step by step by larger plastic parts. Unfortunately of course primarily LHD parts. For example: Number plate holder in European or American design 535813990 535813989. Frame for additional displays for early types 535 858 203. Air intakes as replacement for defective fog lights. Door sill plates 535 853 813 A.
  7. 1 point
    Be concise and polite explaining the situation, obsolete / unobtainable in your country etc You never know your luck
  8. 1 point
    I looked on the website and for you and could not see one in Spain. Maybe call them and ask for help. https://stockpiezasvw-audi.com/en/
  9. 1 point
    Unfortunately the 535 at the beginning means it is a Corrado specific part - the first three digits indicate the Medellin number. Maybe it would be possible to remove the mount from a car that is being broken for parts if the bonding is not too strong?
  10. 1 point
    I'd say don't bother testing, just replace it with a new one - that noise it's making in your video is not good.
  11. 1 point
    No worries 👍 To be honest mig welding is one of the easiest to learn, so I'm sure you'll soon pick it up. I've used gas mig welders and none gas one's, definitely the gas migs are easier to learn on, as they're a bit more forgiving and tend to produce a cleaner weld. Where as the none gas migs you won't be able to stitch weld for long periods, as it'll blow holes in the car metal work, so you have to change your technique slightly by welding much shorter stitch welds, partly due to more heat being produced and only having adjustment for wire speed, well that's what my gasless mig has, whereas the gas mig you have will probably have more availability to adjust, with wire speed and wire thickness, so this will give you more finer control. The end products will look the same from either welder, but the gas mig will fully disperse or aid burning away the slag, whereas on the gasless mig you have to clean off sometimes the slag, but not always, if you prep the metal work more, i.e make sure the metal area is fully clean and virtually no surface rust, you'll get good clean contact to weld on and less chance of burning through the metal, which can happen if you haven't prepared the area enough, or you're welding too long in the same spot. The welder I have is the (Sealey Mightymig 100) this uses flux core welding wire, so it produces more heat as it has to burn melt the flux, which is why you have to change your technique slightly from welding with gas migs. Plus each welder unit performs slightly differently depending on type and age of it, so you'll have to learn the sweet spot on wire speeds for different gauged metal panels on your car, mine is somewhere close to 5 on the wire speed dial, but sometimes can be + or - Also on my mig welder I have to make sure the wire feeder tube to mig torch, is fairly straight when welding, if I have any slight bends or kinks in it, it can sometimes affect the wire delivery to mig torch, it looks like the wire feeder tube is reinforced but not fully, yours may well be fully reinforced. 1) always have your battery disconnected when welding. 2a) prepare the area best you can, cut out any rust and have good clean metal to weld to, plus have a good clean earth contact for your mig earth lead. 2b) prepare the area but make sure it's safe, if welding inside your car or have a hole in the floor, make sure the carpet is lifted up and out the way, including the underlay, basically any fabric/material will catch fire. Be aware of area's where you have fuel, or oil lines including brake lines, as they're a potential fire risk. 3) have good safety weld equipment, like welding helmet, thick leather welding cloves, possibly even upper arm leather sleeves, or leather welding apron if laying down under car welding. Fire extinguisher or if you have air compressor you could use the airline with air trigger, or use a damp cloth to put out anything quickly that has started to burn. Make sure you weld in a well ventilated area, so if in your garage at home leave the door open, plus you could wear a PPE face mask due to fumes from welding or from grinding. If grinding use ear plugs also. 4) make sure you have some spare copper welding tips can be 0.8mm or 1mm, depending what size weld wire you're using. Also at least one spare weld torch flash nozzle, and at least one spare brass connection rod. Basically the connection rod screws in the end of your welding torch, this is what your copper weld tips screw into, and what your torch flash nozzle attach to. 5) when first practicing to weld try different gauges of steel, from 5mm thick down to 1mm thick, it's far easier to weld 5mm thick steel as it takes slightly longer for the heat to penetrate through it, whereas 1mm thick steel like on most car body panels, this heats up super quick so is great to manipulate into shape, but is prone to warping or burning through if your welding torch is too close or held too long in one spot, but the more you practice the more you'll understand the characteristics of steel, and the weld pool i.e that you see in green through you welding mask. My advice is to either do a mig welding course or self teach yourself from reading about it or watching YouTube video's. back in the early 1990s I was at college where I learnt to weld, did bits with brazing, Tig and mig welding, out of the three only really needed mig as that was the main one I wanted to pickup. Hope this helps Si
  12. 1 point
    The part number suffix (letter) can change to indicate a later version or substitution. Hella are a good brand - chances are the VW one is made by them or by Bosch, so I wouldn't worry about quality. The relay can go bad over time - a good way to test this is to jumper the connection the relay makes with a short length of wire - this should run your pump directly. It's a fairly common relay and should be easy to source.
  13. 1 point
    Regarding the rivnut idea you mentioned, that could work, but if they're too long then you'll have too much of the rivnut protruding up into carpet, unless you have one fitted under front seat, or under the rear seat, but that's only if one had rusted in those area's, if yours has rusted in the rear foot well area, you won't be able to fit one as it'll probably protrude up into the carpet too much ? Unless you fit the rivnut the other way round protruding out facing down to the ground, but then you'll have to modify the white plastic fuel pipe clip, to enable you to screw a bolt up through and into the rivnut. VW I think were doing the original threaded pop rivets or welded floor threaded pins a few years ago, I think they were selling in bags of 100 ? N90 261 401 = pop rivet for exhaust heat shield under car. N90 169 301 = welded floor pin threaded. N90 231 601 = welded floor pin threaded. Or it's to weld in a small bolt from inside of car, so only the small head of bolt is seen from inside, if the carpet or underlay is ever lifted. You'll then have the thread on bolt to screw into your original white plastic fuel clip. Bolt size you'll need that fits the white plastic fuel clip. Hex head 8mm, bolt stem M5, thread pitch 0.8mm. Hope this helps Si
  14. 1 point
    Yeah I've had a similar issue on mine, first was my original fuel pipe clips underneath same as in your photo, were splitting and disintegrating due to being 20+ years old. Not sure if you'll need the white plastic fuel clip but just in case part numbers listed below. I think there's at least 3 listed on Etka. Most Corrado's have option (A) fitted I think, but the VR6 can also have option (C) fitted also. (A) Part number of fuel clip is 1H0 201 449 (clip can hold x4 = 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes) 1988 onwards, fitted to MK2/3/4/5/6 Golfs, Corrado's (B) Part number of fuel clip is 191 201 449 (clip can hold = x2 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes and x2 3/16 brake pipe. 1985 to roughly 1992 mainly for MK2 Golf. (C) Part number 1H0 201 449A (clip can hold up to = X3 1/4" (8mm) fuel pipes. From 1992 onwards. Si
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Unlucky mate that tends to mean they are down to the last few so price high- luckily for the VR thay under half that price even though when at the dealers they were £600- . Glad to hear you finally sorted it.
  17. 1 point
    This is the Gamma IV, same as what Keyo has above. This has some nice features, 4x20w, CD changer control, greem dimmable lights, code protection and red anti-theft LED, telephone mute, speed dependent volume control (GALA) when connected to the the blue/white speed sensor signal and can be retrofitted with aux in, bluetooth or iPod adapter using the CD changer inputs - there's even a guy in Germany who retrofits a hardwired aux in cable with 3.5mm jack and Bluetooth 5.0 module for a pretty penny, which means you can retain the CD changer. The cassette flap makes it a lot less attractive to thieves than a fancier unit - and you can even play you Awesome Mix Vol. 1! There is an identical looking radio with blue/red illumination rather than the original green, so be careful to check this when buying.
  18. 1 point
    You definitely want his next shit to be a hedgehog
  19. 1 point
    You can buy it as the whole kit but not cheap. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/535845100-windscreen-moulding-trim-set-4-piece.html
  20. 1 point
    Not much of an update, been a bit busy with the house this weekend Got a tip for the exhaust, nice fake carbon from ebay and started looking at the side repeater fitting in the mirrors because I deleted them from the wings
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