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CorradoVR6-Turbo

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Posts posted by CorradoVR6-Turbo

  7. Posted

    021 115 103 is replaced with 021 115 105B,if your replacing only the sump gasket it would seem odd to replace the pump if it all is working just fine? only real test would be an oil pressure test ...

  8. Posted

    Ouch,o bought my vr pump from the dealers and it was defo under 90 quid... But that was a two years ago,if they stopped making them you could try ford sharan or go 4 mo r32 shallow sump and pump set up ? Btw What is wrong with your pump ?

  10. Posted

    Just driving them. I don't need to own or work on them on a daily basis to know what they're like to drive. That was my 'argument' all along, how they drive, not what bits break. Everyone knows about the scoob's flat four weak spots, just like everyone knows 1.8Ts like to lunch coils and don't like running lean. I have owned a 1.8T, I have driven a MK5 R32, S3s, 4 Motions etc and own an R32 engined car. I think that's enough experience to fight my corner with :D

     

    So your basing your experiance on having a r32'd corrado lol, what the hell is that anything to do with a S3?? and if your corrado is so good to drive why did you mod it? was it not good enough? your like a politician,always got an answer to everything even if its a load of crap....

     

    Im going to leave it there dont want to "stir" things up anymore ha ha.

     

    anyway its nice to see your cheered up Kev :D

  13. Posted · Edited by CorradoVR6-Turbo

    Im assuming your comparing a stock corrado with a stock s3 in all these comparisons ?

     

    Stock corrado handles rubbish and what feel are we talking about,the understeer when pushed hard,yea a sorted corrado will handle well,as will ANY car...

     

    Ive had had a few Subaru's sti and wrx over time,yes they are good point to point cars but they are not jap reliable at all,they often throw big end shells when pushed and to replace them is a full engine out and strip down job....time consuming and costly!

     

    You get a hell of allot more car for your money than a raddo...fact,3.5k can buy you a good example.

     

    The heading should be changed to whats better than a corrado ......

  14. Posted

    If you want a good daily car with haldex,hid's,full electric,climate ect i would pick the s3 any day,its a good car that has its own looks,understated wide arched "winged" doors blades just set it apart from the rest! The corrado has its classic looks thats great to look at but its dated inside and its a great weekend car... thats it! imop,i hated the corrado as a daily car,but i went away from that a while back and just used it as weekend fun...an expensive one at that!

     

    The do rust on the roof rails and lower door edges and a corrado has no rust?....sure they do,in many places you wont see but its there!

     

    Im i a fan of the 1.8t? ....no im not, VR's or 24v lumps any day for me,but they are reliable and have plenty of torque low down for daily driving and can do the twistys very well considering the 1450kg weight ! The 4wd have got me out of trouble many times and as for saying they are rubbish then thats rubbish,go play in the snow as i have and many others and you will have so much fun! go out in a rwd/fwd and good luck,also not just in the snow but the mainly wet condition's we have in the uk! you wont get me back to non 4wd for some time!

     

    Either way its YOUR choice and only you can make your mind up....

  16. Posted

    Ive dealt with allot of rust over the years and treated it well,no need to cut out sections,the surface needs to be ground down but there will be always pitting you cant get rid of,this needs to be dried out with a hot air gun then treated with kurerust or something similar,then preped and painted.

     

    Arches need to be preped on both sides,then the inner side treated with underseal of cavity wax,done this for years,never had a come back....never!

     

    all down to preparation,bodyshops cut corners to save on time and money and always have done.

  22. Posted

    cant tell you how much a new one is but its just a rubber o-ring,in most cases it just wants removing,cleaning and refitting. You can do them without removing the front,remove the rad cover screwed to the top of the slam panel for more room,make sure the car is cold,remove the pressure cap to release pressure and then refit it,remove the switch and go from there,the pressure cap staying on will stop the coolant system syphoning its self so the quicker you are the less coolant and bleeding you have to do.

  23. Posted

    Building a tuned N/A motor will always cost plenty to get real gains out of them,the old 12v head is the part that restricts the power,so you will always be up against a brick wall,its far easier to add a charger to the side,seen a kit go for around 1500 quid and less,that will be an instant 250-280hp mark,if N/A is what you want, drop the R32 motor in there,cams and map you will see around 300hp !

  24. Posted

    yea all the above,the crack pipe and thermostat area are the places you cant see without getting a mirror and light in there,you can have a leak as you are driving and it will probably evaporate and leave a stain,so look for a stain around those parts mentioned.

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