antera309

I would try changing the oil pressure sensors first before delving any deeper.

I think I can help. The bit we're talking about is the one marked "PCV valve" in the pic below: (pic from a LHD car) Splits & cracks here are VERY common on VR6s. Fixing it means replacing the whole intake hose. £80 from VW, £65 from GSF or £30 from Ford. Take your pick! LOL The Ford part number is 7364573 , I believe. It is fitted to the Ford Galaxy VR6.

Rather than use jubilee clips, you should use proper fuel hose clips of the correct size. Fuel hose clips look like this: If you really want to buy the clips from VW, the part number is N 906 867 01 . I resorted to two of these on the end of each hose, just to make sure. I definitely wouldn't go paying VW £70 for a couple of rubber hoses though. You can get competition-grade stainless braided hoses for less than this.

You might be able to use an L-shaped bit of samco hose and a funnel - just pop it onto the crankcase breather flange as and when required...

I agree that responsibility ultimately has to lie somewhere, but I'm not sure it's with Stealth. In the US, the VF-E kits are supplied with a direct-replacement GIAC chip, pre-mapped for the setup. Custom remapping is not required unless the engine has other significant mods (such as a Schrick manifold, water injection or aftermarket cams). LOTS of cars in the US are running VF-E stage 2 with the bundled GIAC chip with no problems whatsoever. Here in the UK, the GIAC chips were not supplied with the kits and those I've spoken to on VWVortex find this very strange - why pay a tuner to do what VF-E have already done? I don't know why the GIAC chips were not supplied with the 20-odd kits sold by NS Racing last year. According to VF-Engineering, the UK-spec AF and AG ECUs are supported, but maybe NSR know better - I dunno. Having said that, a couple of people on the Vortex have reported stalling issues even with the GIAC chip, and have had to reroute their inlet pipework as described above in order to solve the problem. Is anyone on here running a VF-E kit with the GIAC chip? If so, I'd be interested to hear about their experiences.

Quite right, the Golf III does not have such a large overhang ahead of the front wheels as a Corrado does. I think the answer is going to lie in taking it across the front of the car. I have a (very thin) fibreglass front bumper on mine with no internal supports or foglight housings, which should help. :)

I've noticed that you can get 4" Billet MAF housings for OBD2... http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/ca ... p?pid=1900 C2 Motorsports do them as well, and I'm sure I read somewhere that they have developed an OBD1 version. I've emailed them for confirmation... http://www.c2motorsports.net

New MAF & 80mm flexi-ducting ordered. Hacksaw at the ready! I can't thank you all enough for your advice - I let you know how I get on. :)

This guy on eBay sells flexi ducting by the metre: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/COLD-AIR-FEED-IND ... dZViewItem The link is to the 80mm stuff. Are we sure it's 80mm? He also sells Samco hoses. My thought is to lenthen the distance between the MAF and the charger by running ducting behind the bumper. There's not a lot of space back there, but flexi ducting can be "squashed" into an oval shape to if required. My enquiries on VWVortex have turned up the same suggestion - space out the MAF and the charger. So guess what I'm doing this weekend? LOL Do you have any pictures of your install, buttles? I would love to see what you did as regards rerouting the intake. Steve, I've read a lot of posts about the MAF going outside of its operating limits on supercharged VRs at high boost - this is the hard limitation that cheesewire mentions and one of the main reasons why Vince chose to start disconnecting MAFs in the first place. But I'm still struggling to understand how this problem can affect the cars behaviour at idle, when it is flowing only slightly more air than a N/A engine would.

The MAF is mounted vertically fairly low down behind the bumper, between the plastic charger inlet pipe and the air filter. Here is a diagram showing how the pipework is set up: I already have a new MAF on order - it should be with me in a couple of days. When I fit it, I'll see if I can mount it horizontally somehow. Can anyone remember off-hand what diameter of hose the MAF outlet takes?

Sorry, what was it that didn't work? Rigging the output of the temperature sensor to fix the cold overfuelling? I have been experimenting with adjusting the throttle stop to up the idle speed in an attempt to make the engine less willing to stall. No luck so far, but I haven't gone as far as 15.4 degrees yet. I have the 021 906 258 AF ECU - it's very similar to the Corrado AG one.

Cheesewire, my setup is a standard VF-E stage 2, with the MAF upstream of the charger. Your comments make perfect sense, but they paint a very black picture of forced induction on VR6 engines, at least in applications where the stock engine managment is retained. I totally appreciate that the stock VR ECU isn't designed for forced induction, but both of the problems I've described occur at idle, when the charger is not producing any boost!!! On-boost it actually behaves very well! The question I put to the forum is this - does anyone have an supercharged VR6 which: 1) is running stock OBD1 management 2) has the MAF connected 3) doesn't stall at every roundabout & T-junction. ?

Vince explained to me that this is what causes the stalling - hot air being dumped onto the MAF by the recirc valve, which in turn messes up the MAF's signal to the ECU. Is this not correct? I'd be VERY interested to hear about the spring tension mod you mention - I was not aware of this.

I should make clear that it is the rubber underbonnet fuel hoses I cut 1cm off of, not the plastic fuel lines coming from the tank!!

I've been in the modding game for years and I am WELL aware that there is no such thing as "plug & play" modding, or at least not when you're talking about 100BHP+ increases. Vince has been very open and honest from the start that he is still learning when it comes to mapping these forced induction installs. The fact that there are only two niggles remaining (the stalling & the cold overfuelling) is actually not bad going. But I do think we should be looking into how to resolve these problems rather than just putting up with them. Any problem can be engineered around - I refer you to the chorus of people who told me that my flap-less VSR manifold was nothing but an expensive paperweight... Vince agrees with you that the redtop injectors are too big for the application, chosen by VF-E simply because they are cheap. There are plenty of intermediate size injectors available, but testing these would be a very expensive game of trial & error that no-one is gonna want to play. I remember the old Courtenay Turbo kits for Vauxhalls used to get around the problem by retaining the stock injectors and adding a 5th injector that only cuts in at high revs when the extra fuel is needed. Wet Nitrous kits work on a similar principle. I'm not sure whether the VR6 ECU could handle a 7th injector setup (possibly using an external control box a-la Schrick manifold), but it's worth looking into. The subject of the MAF comes up in every discussion I've read on s/c VR6s and my feeling is that people have been willing to ditch their MAFs (and endure all the problems inherent in doing this) too readily. At the end of the day, engines with FI from the factory (such as the 1.8T) run MAF sensors without any problems at all. The 1.8T MAF doesn't start sending screwy values to the ECU whenever the recirc valve operates, so why should a supercharged VR6 be any different? Are we just talking about some re-engineering of the pipework here? Could a MAF from a different car (e.g. 1.8T) be used? and if not, why not? Coming onto the cold running problem, this seems to just be a matter of manipulating the output from the coolant temperature sensor. Vince agrees with this approach. He suggested a switch on the dash to switch the ECU input between 300 Ohms and the true sensor resistance, but I'm gonna go one step further and put together a circuit that handles switchover automatically. I've got draft 1 of the circuit diagram in front of me right now! Wish me luck!