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I was so exasperated by the whole experience I just wanted to get away and do it myself. Now I've got everything as straight as it can be, it still pulls left - which is the problem I wanted to correct in the first place. It's because my subframe is slightly off, I think, so I'll straighten that one day when I can and align the tracking again.

Yes, they replaced the boots. It was lucky that I was under the ramp when he did it as he was unaware. Come MOT time I would have had to shell out for new boots and possibly new joints as well. I won't be going back. When I was finished there I was £35 down, tracking that was worse than when I went in, steering wheel mis-aligned and two boots replaced that were perfectly fine to begin with.

I might have to take it to a specialist, although I thought these people with the machine were specialists. It was interesting to read about a skinny bolt which could help the camber get a bit more upright. It was also interesting to read about only adjusting the tracking from the offside track rod, I didn't know that. My car has been adjusted from both sides, and not only by me. ATS did both sides too, burned through my CV boots whilst putting heat into the locking nuts then left my steering wheel about 20 degrees out, but that's another story.

But since I've already lowered it by 100mm, I don't know what the new figures should be. The camber can't be adjusted any further anyway which I why I don't understand why all of these figures are needed. It makes no sense if camber can't be adjusted further anyway. I just wanted them to check the distances from front to rear and then make sure the wheels point in the same direction. I might do as you said, take it to someone else.

I don't want to move the rear beam though. I need to measure against the rear axle to be sure that the front is straight. Then I need camber & caster angles for the front so they can put it on their machine. I don't understand why they can't just put it on the machine and adjust until it's straight and the camber is as upright as possible. I've done it as best I can with a home tracking kit now so it's better than before and the camber is adjusted as far as possible. I just need to measure the distance from rear to front hubs because I know my front subframe is slightly out which causes the car to pull left slightly. This would have been so much easier on the machine but they insist on knowing "the figures".

Yes, it is. I think the fronts have to be checked against the rears so that both sides are equally spaced. But you're right, the rears are fixed.

Hi I need to get a 4 wheel alignment done on my Corrado VR6 and because I have lowered my car on coilovers by 100mm, I am being asked for the new settings that they should put in to the machine. I think these are the camber angles etc. but probably there's a whole set of readings that they need. Has anyone else lowered by 100mm and know the figures they used please? I have to admit that I don't know exactly what they need but someone who's in the know might be able to shed some light maybe? I don't really understand why they can't just make it straight.

I have a set of standard springs and shocks if you want a standard set up.

I haven't read the whole post so forgive me if this isn't the info you're looking for... My car in my profile picture is on 17s and a Weitec Hicon GT coilover kit. It was substantially lowered from original, I never did measure exactly how much. The ride is firm but not excessive, damping is not adjustable but set just right. Oops! I just screwed my photo up, you're not meant to see that one. I'll try to attach a larger photo of the car when I get home.

Isn't that stuff called Schutz, not Schultz? Schultz may have been the guy who applied it in the factory ,but Schutz is the product :-)

I have a de-badged grille if it's any good to you. £25 del. good condition.

I have a Mk4 that I will be breaking soon. The bushes are shot but I have new ones to go in when removed. I have no idea if it's a straight swap but if you research and it fits then I can have it off fairly soon.

I have a de-badged grille. £25 delivered.

I've got a grille but no eyebrow, if you need it.

Do you still need this? I have a cable shift assembly.