mimjed

whilst some of the points you make are true, i believe you are missing the principal. i don't claim to be good at physics but...

if a piston of 5cm pushes down 10cm it displaces as much fluid as a 10cm piston moving 5cm. I'd presume in the world of physics that would probably mean more force would be required on the larger piston to achieve the same result, but as we are talking about going from a 22.2mm to a 23.8 the difference in force wouldn't be noticeable by your right leg.

therefore you achieve more breaking force with the same pedal travel. this reduces the spongy feel and makes the pedal more reactive. so no stamping required on the pedal.

also the only parts left of a corrado braking system i have is a pedal, handbrake cables and an abs light that will never turn on. everything has been changed to improve on brake pedal feel and performance.

Not sure I follow, holes are bigger in the banjo bolts to allow more fluid to move through the pipe with the same amount of pedal movement. In terms of hydraulics you get more push as a result.

One of my mates got taken for a spin in a 608bhp Peugeot 205....still front wheel drive!!

Punch Joey Essex in the teeth and I'll fit them for free!

Most people opt for r32 bushes in the wishbones ( can be bought ready off eBay. Might as well do anti roll bar links while you are there too.

Hmm always thought they went to m12 on the abs models to allow more flow.

I have a 4 port stubby from Ibiza on my rado. 2 m10 ports on left hand side, 2 m12 ports on right side. I'm using the m12 for the fronts for the same reason - more flow.

Sorry missed that, light should be on to limp. Def try unplugging maf. Sent my mk5 mental when it went.

Idle was fine but wouldn't rev. Clouds of smoke out the exhaust too.

You can (from memory) buy a licence for the freeware vag com for £60. Gets you support. Or a not so legit copy from ebay for around £50

Engine light on? Try unplugging maf and then drive it again.

If you are keeping abs then you need a two port. Mk3 golf/ibiza or Ford focus with all fit, and have the bigger cylinder. Think the only thing that may change is the union size on the master, up to m12x1 instead of m10x1.

They are essentially the same in braking terms, just comes down to price. But on the basis you are 20vt I'd suggest a stubby out of the Ibiza would be best suited due to engine clearance.

20 miles over the speed limit = court. Court will issue 6 points plus fine plus victim surcharge. I'd say £400 is a reasonable estimate. (Can also throw in community service!!).

Over 100mph is a ban.

Always worth a bleed as it is cheap. You can upgrade master cylinder, May be worth doing servo too. Mk3 tdi's are the same size but you have to cut the shaft on the back of it and weld the old one on (corrado is a clevis pin).

Ford focus also fitted with 23.8mm master, they fit too.

Nice one Sean/Hasan. Shover it back in at the weekend.

Nope, still chasing wiring on this, fook knows what previous owner was thinking.

Currently no heating, passenger window not rolling, water temp gauge not working and rad fan doesn't kick in.

Not to mention all the missing bits of loom inside the car.....turning me slightly grey but good to learn the ins and outs of ce2 wiring.

Euro car parts, often on sale for £50 ish. As others have said don't tak front end off, just bumper and the top cross member. Rad will sneak out.

Not sure where this is supposed to plug in, I didn't remove the dash so not even sure it's in the correct side of the car.

It's for the heater is as much as I can figure out. It has a yellow black cable with an extension coming off part of the same loom.

Can sort out better pics if needed.

irwin bolt removers for anything sticking out, bloody life savers http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-10-Piece-Bolt-Grip-8mm-19mm-Damaged-Nut-Remover-Base-Expansion-Twin-Set-/290463114744

will need a stud extractor kit for the flush ones. not much fun but can be done.

plus heat will always help.

Myself and a couple of friends are doing abs removals on our vr's, including removing factory bias valve. wondering if anybody else may be interested?

It's aimed at 288/312 and mk4 rear set up, but can change fittings to suit others if necessary.

still working out costings (mainly due to braided line length), mine will be the first car with the full kit fitted so i'll be the test monkey, and can make alterations from there.

Kit would consist of 23mm master cylinder from ibiza 16v etc. (redrilled to allow direct fitment).

Reservoir bottle with clutch outlet (can spec used or new).

Race spec rear bias valve.

Complete braided lines from the master cylinder to each caliper (no hard pipes involved).

All fittings ie banjos/unions are from goodridge and will be stainless.

My friend has been making braided kits for motorbikes for over ten years, so no swampy specials!!

and as a side note, there is no need to change brake booster to a vacuum type, stick with whats there already.

weather permitting and with one part i need (electrical connector for brake booster - if anyone wants to help out!!?) i think i should be able to have mine fitted and refinements made in about a month.

do the studs show or are they snapped flush?

yeah its worth a bash, if you figure it out let me know!!

theres a video on youtube of some dude whos changed all mechs and motor.

he shows you a different way how to set the motor (granted i didnt try this though)

haha no, tried kevs method 3 times and it still didn't want to play the game. just disconnected the power to the motor instead.

shame as it both tilts and slides as it should, but i never really saw the great use of a sunroof anyway so no great loss.

brand new genuine on ebay with ebc pads for 100 or best offer. got mine for 90.

banjos are m12, thread is m12x1 (might be worth double checking pitch as vw have a tendency to mess with things for no reason)

bugger that, get some 312's instead. i picked up mine for £100 posted. calipers carriers discs and pads. came with standard brake lines too, but might as well go braided. you need some 6mm spacers and some 10.9 bolts but i got these for around £12.

dont know why they go so cheap on ebay!!

Most likely is out of sync as it doesn't stop level with the roof on the button, bottoms out and then stops.

Cheers kev, sounds like another job on the Sunday list.

Give the relays a shove back in, normally happens when they come loose.

may well be needing on then...i only have a dash shell in at the mo, so shouldn't be too hard to spot.

failing that just pull the power to the sunroof motor i guess.

Haha concerning, don't think it has an alarm anymore. It's on its second conversion.

Any clues on the process and the hidy hole for the module?