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Bally

Advice on 2.0L conv..

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I now have a complete 2.0L 6a lump sitting in my garage.. big thanks to David for all is help.. :D

 

I need some advise on what to do next, I no I have alot of prep work etc in order to get it in the car & plan to replace most of the parts before installing the lump.. I also have a polished 50mm inlet which I'm not sure on fitting? also thinking of having head/ported polished/gas flowed??

 

I'm looking for reliability & performance..

 

need some advise guys..

 

KevHaywire seems to no his stuff... so pls advise.. :?:

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mate aslong as the engine was healthy before it came out you shouldnt have any problems

 

Use u head and cams on the bottom end and that should keep u happy :)

 

also if u want change the water pump on there and off course head gasket and geaskets before sticking it in

 

as for the inlet personally i would stick to the 50mm one for the more fun as ive never noticed this fall in torque even on my other mates 16v that everyone keeps mentioning

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hey Al. the lump seems to be in good nick, but am stripping it over the next few wks & get it looking mint again..

 

water pump & a metal head gasket are on my shopping list..

 

as for inlet, myns running the 42mm at mo.. would like to see what the 50mm does with the 2.0L... :D

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If I were to be fitting a new engine, I'd definately whip off the sump, replace the oil pump and check the bottom end and big end shells while it was out of the car...

 

The bottom end and big end shells are only about £40 all in for a 4cylinder VW engine and can be done without taking out the crank... I'd also be tempted to stick in some new piston rings so you KNOW that you've got a good bottom end which will last you a good 80K miles with no problems if treated properly for the first few hundred miles... 8)

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Cheers for the reply Ian, plans are to replace whtever is worn etc..

 

want it to be reliable so wont be cutting corners!

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you could, as a suggestion, get the crank reground to suit new bearings.

while you are having that done, get it balanced

while you are in there, get the conrods all matched (to same weight) then balanced

and have the whole lot "tuffrided"

 

also shed some weight off the flywheel too.

 

that'll make for a tasty and strong bottom end. shouldnt cost much, but in the long run, will be dope.

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i must add though - get the flywheel lightened PROFESSIONALLY

 

tempting as it may be to machine bits off it, it can lead to disaster.

i had a friend with a pug 1.9 gti 205, he lightened his flywheel himself, by drilling etc.

it broke at high revs, went through the bellhousing on the box, and jammed into the passenger side footwell so hard it was poking through the floor. a "spare underpants" moment :shock:

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Thanks for the reply mate, Flywheels on my list to be lightened & balanced..

 

will look into the other bits, cheers :D

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its well worth doing.

 

a good machine shop / engineering place should be able to do the whole lot.

when my vr6 motor dies, i will have that all done to it. it shouldnt cost that much either

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