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jamest

brake pads!

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my light has just come on in the vr6 saying my pads are worn so i have just bought some new ones:

 

 

anyone know of a "how to" to fit them or is it best left to a garage...!

 

 

cheers

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I think that it's quite unusual to have pads with wear indicators, although not unheard of.

 

When you say, "my light came on", do you mean the handbrake/low fluid level warning light? If so, you might check the fluid level as well as the pad thickness.

 

Changing the pads is entirely within the capabilities of a competent amateur. The usual safety precautions apply, like getting proper axle stands under the car and not relying on the jack. You do not need any exotic tools for the front brakes. The only slight difficulty can be in pushing the piston back into the caliper, but firm even pressure will do it. What I do is to bolt the caliper back onto the carrier once the old pads have been removes and lever the piston with a small wooden hammer handle against the disc, through the opening in the front of the caliper. There will be criticism of this from some quarters, but so long as you are not heavy handed you wont cause any damage. The alternative is to buy a suitably sized clamp. Make sure you don't push hydraulic fluid out of the reservoir - it is excellent paint stripper.

If you have any doubts about your competence though, get it done professionally - it shouldn't take an hour from start to finish on the front.

 

If you are talking about the rear pads, that's a bit more complicated and you will need a special tool to wind the piston back into the caliper - it will not just push back in, it needs to be pushed and turned at the same time with a special clamp, about £20 from Halfords.

 

Good luck

 

Best wishes

 

RB

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The download is a good basic guide, but in my experience it is a good idea to scrape all the accumulated surface dirt and rust from the guiding surfaces of the pad carrier (ie where the pad backing plate sits in the carrier). This ensures that the pad doesn't stick in contact with the disc when coming off the pedal. Make sure also that the anti-squeal springs are properly located.

 

Finally, this is the ideal opportunity to have a very good look at the condition of your flexible hoses and cv joint rubber gaiters. Also, be critical of the condition of the discs themselves.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

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The download is a good basic guide, but in my experience it is a good idea to scrape all the accumulated surface dirt and rust from the guiding surfaces of the pad carrier (ie where the pad backing plate sits in the carrier). This ensures that the pad doesn't stick in contact with the disc when coming off the pedal. Make sure also that the anti-squeal springs are properly located.

 

Definitely. I had to file accumulated rust and stuff off my rear carriers when I fitted the MK4 calipers. The old pads had siezed solid because of the rust build up and needed hammering off the carriers!

As Roger says, make sure the front and rear pads slide easily along the carriers before refitting the calipers.

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