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Quick Head Question

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pretty much, yup... The holes for the head bolts are slightly larger as are the seats for the headbolt washers, but other than that, they're the same... 8)

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Henny, what would I do without you??

Cheers mate

 

I've got chance to get one for cheap, so I'm gonna fetch it into work, clean it all up and get someone in the machine shop to port it all.

Then pop the newman268 cam in it ready for when the engine gets built.

 

Thanks

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I wish I'd have known that little thing about the bolt seats this time last year though... :| Would have saved me a fair old chunk of cash... :roll:

 

I think the Rallye head may also be slightly better ported from the factory than the G60 head, although this may just be a rumour... 8)

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I've just bought a set of head bolts and a head gasket for the C, so will I have to get the relavent head bolts and gasket for the rallye head or will they be ok?

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it's the block that dictates which head bolts to use as it's the block which has the threads in it... ;)

 

If it's a PG block, use the G60 bolts... If it's a 1H block, use the Rallye bolts...

 

Head gaskets are the same for all G60 engined cars.... 8)

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Nice one, It's still gonna be the PG block (with 83mm forged pistons). I just thought if I can get a head and re-build it, it will save my mate some time while he re-builds the bottom end, and it should save me a bit of cash, not that I'm tight you understand.

 

Also gonna have a go at porting the throttlebodie and inlet.

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Throttle body isn't bad to do... there's LOADS you can take off where the pipe attaches though to enlarge it... I was shocked when I compared my flowed one to a non-flowed one! :| Inlet manifold doesn't really need a huge amount doing to it... just match it to the gaskets and smooth off the internal cast marks and it'll be good... 8)

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After speaking to Pro-tune in Stafford today where I am having a front mounted intercooler put into the RS4 bumper. They also quoted me to enlarge the throttle body, which came to £300. I asked why so much to do this. It was as thay were also quoting to put in a larger butterfly valve.

 

I asked if this was necessary, to which they said, enlarging and smoothing the inlet to the throttel body will only make a difference if you enlarge the butterfly as well as otherwise it will just bottleneck at the butterfly valve and all the work will be in vain as no performance or torque increase will be gained.

 

A custom butterfly valve and all the pins made comes to about £120

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yup... it's the same casting, just with the holes and seats for the head bolts enlarged slightly... valve size, seats, seals, guides, gaskets etc etc etc are all identical... just those holes and seats that differ... ;)

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Right, I've managed to get the head (complete with in-let & exhaust manifolds, throttle bodie, looks like an uprated cam, green injectors and rail) for a nice tidy price.

I stipped bits of it on sat night before I went out (mom wasn't too pleased as I did it on the kitchen floor).

I'm now left with all these bit seperated. I'm gonna flow the inlet and throttle bodie tommorow, but need a bit of advice on how best to strip the head, anyone got any tips? ie getting the valves out? I've not really done anything like this before.

 

P.S. Might have an uprated cam, Ported throttle bodie and in-let manifold for sale and a set of green inectors pretty soon if anyone is interested?

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you need a set of valve spring compressors to get the valves out...

 

They're basically a big set of clamps which squish the spring down enough so that you can flick the valve collets (little clips) off the valve stem to let the spring and spring cap release off the valve... You'll suss it quickly once you get hold of the correct tool... ;)

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