Why wont you just run correctly???

[potatonet 0]

ok so we all know potatonets corrado is in the crapper once again. lets start out with this:

 

Drive the car around all the time, every once in a while for about 30 seconds I will lose HP severely, dunno what it is. about 2 weeks ago my car started driving around with no HP, couldnt get the revs up very high very quickly at all. got it home that day and it was fine. next day I start it up and it idles at the first mark after 0 RPMS which I am assuming is 500 RPMs. thought it was alternator didnt know really. since then it has been sitting in my garage being worked on by me.

 

Things I have replaced recently(last month and a half):

fuel filter

timing belt

alternator

water pump

radiator

O2 sensor

everything else in coolant system

fuel injector seals

crank bolt

top radiator hose

oil pressure senders

oil hoses to charger

oil cooler (front mount)

EVERY FREAKING THING!!!!!!!!

 

suspicions:

fuel pressure regulator

ECU (rebuilt a year ago)

...thats all I got

 

the car idles at 500 rpms once again, checked spark in Dizzy = perfect, check fuel pump flow = perfectly fast, timing is DEAD on I checked 3 times. If I floor it nothing happens, if I unplug the blue temp sender it doesnt start so I think that works. all belts are tight. compression test came back 110 - 130 across the board so I dont have a sucked valve. Charger works fine. Something is not right. I dont know what it is, all I know is that I couldnt get the revs to move for the life of me, changed the Dizzy to one from a fox (should idle at about 3000) =-), didnt do crap, =-(. I really dont know what is going on here guys, I cant get my car to move an inch and I need this thing. experts please help I know you may be repeating yourselves but its for a good cause, engineering degree.

 

thanks guys. I need everyones help on this one.

[Supercharged 2]

Does it make a difference is you unplug the BTS while running?? - If not, it's foooked!

[Banana Man 0]

Try pulling off the vacuum pipe from throttle bodie to ecu while it's running if the engine doesn't drop in revs drastically then it's a vacuum leak somewhere ( most common is the throttle bodie to ecu though)

[Guest]

It looks like you have covered all of the basics and I hope you are using Bosch W6DP0 plugs, they cost the world but are far superior to most other plugs. The Bosch plugs are expensive because they use a solid platinum core unlike others which are simply coated. When ever I first hear about odd ball problems such as yours I think about the ignition switch. The igntion switch on most VW's carries the entire load for the ignition controlled compenents such as the ignition system, heater fan, wipers, and a bunch of other things. This current melts the contacts on the igntion switch and you get volage drops through the ignition and funny things start happening. I think buying a new ignition switch and plugging it in without installing it is a cheap and Test.

 

Next, make sure that the battery cables, clamps, and all engine grounds are in good shape and the alternator is putting out 14.5 volts under load. The G60 really likes it juice and if the voltage regulator is worn or the brushes are below minimum spec this can make a big difference so check them out and clean the battery terminals and grease them. Look at all of the wiring and make sure there are no damaged wires or connectors anywhere. Intermittant problems such as yours can easily be caused by faulty wiring. Make sure the vacuum hose that goes to the ECU is VW spec 3.5mm hose and that it is exactly 1 meter long, any different and the ECU gets funny signals which can make funny things happen. Go through all of the leads and make sure they are not cracked and check the resistance of each one using a multimeter.

 

Jumping the fuel pump and watching fuel come out is not a test, it just shows that fuel comes out. You really need to use a fuel pressure gauge and measure the system pressure at idle and with the FPR's vacuum line unplugged and see the differences and lastly to test residual pressure. On your car the fuel pressure regulator will vary the fuel pressure from about 3.0 bar to 3.5 bar so you won't see huge changes. Here's a link on how to check this on a VR6, as you can see it isn't too hard Fuel Pressure Testing the VR6

 

There are also electrical tests in the Bentley manual that you can do to test most of the motors electrical system and it can be done with a simple multimeter. You should also check the codes in your car, with the G60 you check the codes using flash mode output.

 

There's a few basic things you should check before you go replacing things you don't need to. Hopefully you figure it out with out putting too much money into the car.

 

Cheers, Dennis

[potatonet 0]

so after reading another essay by insane_VR6 I still dont know what to do, should I go buy a multimeter and test the stuff?

 

Why does it idle at 500 and why does it not make a difference if I hit the gas or not? I just replaced the ignition switch, the thing is that the problem progressed to a worsening effect.

 

is it a vaccum leak, does anyone have anything solid to say before I go out and buy all of these metering tools and fuel pressure gauges and VAG-COM cables and programs and bleh.

 

I got the throttle body to ECU thing and the blue temp sender and am gonna check those tonight. will report more later. keep thinking guys, and Insane_VR6, try to keep it to a few sentences and not an essay, and where do I get a multimeter and how much being that I am US?

[potatonet 0]

nevermind Insane_VR6 I appreciate the information, keep typing them that way, just frustrated

[potatonet 0]

ok so I plugged my 200 amp starter charger in and it blew the fuse for my garage, should have turned the lights off. anyway I started the car and then proceeded to pull the blue temp sender line off, when I did, nothing happened, revs didnt drop or rise. unplug the vacuum hose from the throttle body and the revs rose to about 1000 rpms, it was the best moment of my life, plug it back in revs stay there till I touch the throttle, they slowly climbed like they did when I drove it the last day it worked, then they kinda just died down back to the 500 rpms which it idled at before, so tomorrow I am going to the local place to pick up about 4 of those blue senders being that I replaced this one a year ago, cant remember if it was the original one or not, anyway faulty new one, stupid afterarket VW parts. will post reply with tomorrow's outcome. cheers.

 

BTW Insane_VR6 I have the corrado club of canadas calendar tell AHN that the headlights look awesome and nice job on those Red LCDs.

[Banana Man 0]

If your idle rose when you disconnected the vacuum hose from throttle bodie to ecu then I put money on it that you have a leak in one of the vacuum pipes, go out and buy yourself a couple of meters of 3/16th vacuum hose and replace the throttle bodie to ecu pipe ( make sure it's 1m exactly) and also replace the little vacuum pipe from the fuel pressure reg to inlet manifold. Also check that the acessorie nipples on the vacuum pipe from inlet manifold to brake servo aren't broken and leaking.

[potatonet 0]

ok I replaced the blue sender, did fine for a minute or two, then haltered to a stop, makes me think vacuum hose, what I dont get is why it sounds like it is pinking on some cylinders going to go out and buy a sensor to test fuel lines and a multimeter for spark yadda yadda, it just sounds like knocking I hope its not a rod.

[Supercharged 2]

unplug the vacuum hose from the throttle body and the revs rose to about 1000 rpms, it was the best moment of my life

 

You don't get out much then! :lol:

 

Sory mate, hope you sort it, I have similar issues at the moment...

[Banana Man 0]

Before you buy a multimeter go and buy yourself $2's worth of vacuum hose and change the hoses it could save you a load of cash. Has the knock sensor been replaced at any time and what does the cable look like?

[potatonet 0]

this car is sooooo jacked up. I replaced the vacuum hose to the ECU, 1 meter right..?, and the car now idles much lower like 750 range, there is definitely a vacuum leak in there cause you can hear it when you attempt to rev the engine. the only thing that bothered me was the fact that the old hose was 85mm instead of 100mm. will change all vacuum hoses this weekend and will post results then. thanks guys.