Adam858 0 Posted May 16, 2005 Apologies for yet another oil question… :roll: Can you guys recommend me an oil for my situation? VR6 with 155,000 miles on the clock. When the engine is cold it is very rattley, and I tend to do most of my miles like this as the car is mainly used for very short journeys. When the engine is warm it is silky smooth, so I'm sure the rattles are down to oil taking its time to get into the top end of the engine. The oil is quite new and was changed by the dealer I brought the car from about 4 months ago, I have no idea what oil this is. Would I be better off with some Magnatec, or does this not make any difference? My usual garage uses Total semi-synthetic, is this ok or would my cold running be better with Magnatec? Or - are there any additives that would do the trick with any oil, you often see these things advertised on the TV but I’m a bit sceptical. Anyone tried any? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted May 16, 2005 They are always rattley when first started. Doesn't matter what oil you use it wont make any difference really. Use the oil from VW dealers. Synta Silver 10w 40. Its quite cheap too. I pretty sure it the tappets cos they are hydraulic and need the oil to quite them. Hence why all vr's make that noise when started especially when its really cold outside. T. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billinjah 0 Posted May 16, 2005 try mobil 1 i gets around the engine quicker but also drains out of hydraulic tappets quicker! a lot of folk on here dont like it but i do! if not a bit of extra virgin makes your engine feel tight again Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Timo. 0 Posted May 16, 2005 The VR tends to get through mobil 1 oil rather quickly. Its just soo damn expensive. If you want to used modil 1 make sure to get the 15w 50 as the 0w40 is just too thin. T. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted May 17, 2005 Yes, mine is a rattler when cold, a bit of piston slap I think. It goes away after a minute or so. Definitely not tappets as the complete head is almost brand new. Oil consumption used to be a bit worrying, but since going over to 15W40 Magnatec from 10W40 Syntha it has dropped to about 3000 miles per litre. I have now bought a 20 litre drum of Chevron 15W40 (less than £18 from Costco, fully compliant with the appropriate VW specification) and will use that at the next few oil changes. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted May 17, 2005 Yep, I'd say 15-40 is probably better for older VR's... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 17, 2005 15W40 is what's recommended in the book... Particularly if you're doing lots of short journeys and cold runs you'll want the best quality oil you can find... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 17, 2005 Been using 15W40 Magnetec in mine for the past couple of changes and also some Activ8 friction reducer. I've seen a marked decrease in cold morning slapping and the engine is noticably smoother and quieter when hot. I saw the Activ8 demo at GTI international and thought I'd give it whirl. It's been in the engine 2 weeks now and it definitely does what it says on the tin. I don't normally advocate pour in 'wonder chemicals' but this stuff really works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted May 17, 2005 I saw that guys at Inters. I wonder what the additive behaves likes after a few thousand miles of heating up and cooling down. Also why don't all the oil manufacturers (within millions of $$ in R&D budgets) already put this additive into their oil? Will it clog oil channels? I'm always a bit dubious of additives of this type. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 17, 2005 Well it won't clog anything because it contains no solids, unlike Slick50. I was very sceptical aswell but I couldn't dispute the maker's claims, having done the 'torque bar' test myself. I was willing to try it in a 115K old engine, what harm can it do? Well it hasn't done any.... as I say, it's become smoother and more responsive and I've done nothing else to the engine....can't be a coincidence. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted May 17, 2005 Cue "Oilman" Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted May 17, 2005 S'pose so. I was dubious of the torque bar test though as it doesn't really reflect the conditions in which the product will operate in the engine. Still, it's quietened down your VR so it can't be doing any harm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 17, 2005 Well, the torque bar test showed what the big end bearings go through at the top and bottom of each stroke and also the cam lobes, but main bearings and cylinder walls etc may or may not see any benefit, it's hard to say, but yeah...it's definitely done something that's noticable. Slick50 never used to make any difference at all when I've used it in the past. I wouldn't use it on a really low mileage engine but have no qualms in tipping it into a high miler. It's just a good excuse to rebuild it if it does cause a thermal meltdown :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted May 17, 2005 I see the grand plan now! :) You just want to lift the engine out, rebuild it on your kitchen table and powder coat & polish it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 17, 2005 Nah, I'd do it in the lounge so I can watch TV whilst polishing the block :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adam858 0 Posted May 17, 2005 Cool, so 15W40 Magnetec and Activ8 could help my 'well run in' engine. Errm, wheres the best and cheapest place to get these to products then, and how much oil do I need? Cheers guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 17, 2005 5.5 litres is required for a full change. Not sure where the cheapest place is, but if you find out, tell us! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted May 18, 2005 Try http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm oilman on this forum works at the above place and can sort you out with all your oily needs. I use Sinta Silver from the dealership, only about £14 for 5 litres! Seems fine in my 115,000mile G60. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 18, 2005 GSF sell Synta Silver at £10.95 + VAT for 5 litres. Synta Green (basic mineral oil) is only £6.95 + VAT for 5 litres. I'm considering trying out the Synta mineral oil for a while - it's 15w40, which is what the book says for the VR6.. Obviously I wouldn't expect it to last as long as the semi-synth Silver stuff, but maybe it'll do the tappets some good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 18, 2005 Cool, so 15W40 Magnetec and Activ8 could help my 'well run in' engine. Errm, wheres the best and cheapest place to get these to products then, and how much oil do I need? Cheers guys. I just get the Magnatec from Halfords and they're giving away free BMW F1 baseball caps when you buy it at the moment, LOL! You need "Magnatec for Conventional engines - 15W/40", it's about £14 IIRC for 4.5 litres, so you'll need two tubs. The second tub is needed to take another litre from and to use as your 'top up' oil. The activ8 you'll have to buy from here http://www.simplan.co.uk/ It's not cheap but then products that claim to do something out of ordinary seldom are, but as I say, the combination of Spagnatec and Reactiv8 has improved my engine quite considerably. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted May 18, 2005 I got some free Magnatec from Halfords when i went to buy a BMW F1 baseball cap...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites