disappointed by chip and pulley

[Critical_Mass 10]

Ive recently fitted a SNS chip and 68 mm pulley on my G60 however the performance improvement is some what disappointing. I was told by a few on the forum id be grinning like a cheshire cat once they are fitted. Ive spoken to someone on here and told me the chip i bought, which was purchased from someone on the forum (but not blaming them for the disappoinment) told me it was an early chip. Would buying a later chip improve the performance. Some one please help!!!!

 

Any ideas id be grateful?

 

One last think if the when the black sensor is unplugged and no change in engine whilst idling does this indicate a fault, is so what and whats the solution?

 

Cheers guys!!!

[MattWilde 10]

blue sensor dude, black sends the water temp to the dash gauge, and blue sends it to the ecu

[Jim 1]

I believe if you run an earlier SNS Stage 5 chip (and not one of the newer stage 5.5 chips) you need to get a 3.5 BAR Fuel Pressure Regulator don't you? I know that my G60 was equipped with a Porsche 3.5BAR FPR to cope with an SNS Stage 5..

 

The stage 5.5 chip overcomes that requirement...

[Critical_Mass 10]

cheers for the responses guys. so it'll be around £110 for a stage 5 chip. Thats what ill do then.

 

Nice G60 Jim, how come you got rid?

 

Cheers

[steveo29 0]

dodgy idea running a chip that your not sure of...has it got a sns number on it?? maybe bilal would be able to say if its suitable

[Dubcharged 0]

Hi Mate

 

Always difficult for me to say what chip you are using if you get it 2nd hand.

 

Do you know what boost you are getting with the pulley? Might not be getting adequate boost?

[W3RKD 0]

following on to bilals post.... who has set the car up for you one the parts were fitted ?

[Critical_Mass 10]

fitted the chip myself. If any of you know "banana man" real name Ant, i bought it off of him. Bloke called Steve who knew him said he was genuine. But Steve said it will have been an early sns chip.

 

No idea what boost im getting.

 

Fitted the chip myself after getting instructions from ant. A mechanic who specialises in working on VeeDubs fitted the pulley for me.

 

By the way any ideas why my digital clock on dash and trip counter would reset everytime ignition is switched off? Temp and average speed etc still works just clock and trip gets reset.

[W3RKD 0]

your fueling / timing will need checking ... also boost will need checking you cant just fit these bits and expect massive gains the do need setting up.

[Jim 1]

The clocks going off and a misbehaving MFA (trip computer) CAN be a sign of the car having being clocked! Have you got paperwork / history for the car, etc?

[Rob_B 0]

the MFA stalks can go faulty which happened to me and ive checked and double checked all my documents. i agree it can be a sign of clocking but not all the time. i think if the battery voltage drops it can wipe the MFA aswell

[Supercharged 2]

Right, you should notice a big difference if everything is working correctly but it sould like you need to get your car set up properly and make sure all the engine sensors are working correctly - before speanding any money...

 

Problem with the clocks is more than likely just a blown fuse - have you checked them??

 

Next, What condition is the charger in and when was it last rebuilt? If your not sure, do a boost check, this can be done without any additional equipement but putting the MFA in diagnostic mode.

 

Next, how tight is the serpentine belt? - ideally a shorter one should have been fitted with the new pulley but the old one should be adequate if the tensioning damper is in good condition.

 

Next, how does the car feel to drive, how much fuel are you using, is it responsive? - this may give us an indication to what is going on...

[Supercharged 2]

This lot should keep you busy.... :lol:

 

Car not running right? Here's some common debugging tips!

 

1. Engine running warmed up, unplug the blue coolant temp switch, does anything change? No = bad coolant temp.

Alt: 1000 ohms resistance after normal operating temps

 

2. Air Temp (on intercooler tube) 500 ohms on outer two pins, you have to drill out the cap to get the adjustment.

 

3. O2 sensor, of course, check the wires/harness for any damage. If you haven't replaced this lately, might be time to get the universal and just crimp the wires on. $60 or less.

 

4. The TB -> ecu hose must be plugged in the right place. its closed to the passenger side. Unplug the ecu hose from the ECU , if the car still runs like crap, then its the ecu hose. Don't even attempt to drive the car with the ecu hose off.

 

5. Check your battery voltage, If the battery voltage goes low, the ECU dumps 25% more fuel than normal.

 

6. The ground wires, to the head, and everywhere else. Bad grounds are a common issue with this car, especially the one to the head.

 

7. Distributor cap/rotor, remove, inspect and clean dirt. Sandpaper any "growth/corrosion" on the metal contact points.

 

8. Wires,plugs, you should remove the plugs and inspect for damage, or fouling from being rich.

 

9. If o2 sensor goes bad, it will kill the cat real quick. Remove the cat by lowering exhaust, look inside, if its crumbly, turned sideways, or black, its probably dead.

 

10. Check vacuum through boost gauge (10-15psi of vacuum) or MFA (84-104) at idle. Anything else, you might have a big vacuum leak.

 

11. ISV - if you haven't rerouted it, you may have a leaking ISV.

 

12. Idle screw on throttle body. Make sure its not gone, or about to fall out. Usually results in "hunting" or high rpm idle.

 

13. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? Its by the passenger rear wheel. Easy to change, watch out for gas spraying you in the face!

 

14. Timing. If you don't own a timing light, you can mark the distributor cap and base with some paint/white-out. Unbolt the ~13mm bolt that holds the distributor down.

 

Turning the distributor cap right, will retard timing, Turning left will advance. Advance = more power, quicker off the line, more likely to ping/knock with poor gas. Retard is when you feel

 

pinging or detonation. I'd suggest, on the hottest day possible, advancing a little, driving, and advancing more until you feel knock/detonation or pinging when you first get on the gas. Then back off some.

 

Stock timing is 6-8 degrees, with good 93+octane gas , you should be able to go higher. With poor 91 octane, you are going to have to back off timing a bit with most chips.

 

 

Do you know how to test your boost levels?

 

1. Start Motor

 

2. Move the MFA selector to "2"

 

3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding)

 

4. Stop motor

 

5. Start Motor

 

6. Release the MFA end button.

 

7. Press the MFA End button one time.

 

 

You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance.

 

Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got.

 

A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape!

 

USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments

15 200 -23.7

55 400 -17.8

90 600 -11.9

127 800 -5.9

148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed)

172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak)

192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak)

211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak)

228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley)

242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger)

255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!)

 

255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended

 

Taken from http://www.snstuning.com (DIY section)

[Critical_Mass 10]

firstly the car has been hpi checked. And the MFA was working when i bought it but stopped working properly for whatever the reason is. I got the charger rebuilt by jabba about a month after i bought it (about 5 months ago). Theres a shorter belt on. Seems to use a fair bit of fuel. Checked the fuses, non blown. The boost check proceedure, ie turn key turn MFA on to 2 press button turn engine off etc doesnt work, i presume cos MFA keeps losing its memory. Had it on the rolling road before chip and pulely about 2-3 months ago and was showing normal.

 

What sensors do i need to check where are they and how do i check them. Well im undecided as to how the car is feeling when i drive it. Sometimes feels ok, other times feels a dog. AND a problem that i keep reporting on here but cant get any solution is the jerking. If ive got constant revs and speed i can feel the car jerking but its alot worse when going slow. The car is slow off the mark even with the pulley and chip. Getting it back on the rolling road maybe a good idea. It feels like the charger doesnt kick in until higher revs, ( i know the charger is always providing a certain amount of boost). Its all peving me off!

 

:?:

[g-dub 0]

hmmm jabba, simple answer go see the doctor at G-werks

[Supercharged 2]

Ignition switch is the other thing that can screw the MFA, maybe worth getting a new one anyways (even if it doesn't fix the problem) as they are well known for going wrong!

 

Fuel filter been changed recently?

[Critical_Mass 10]

yeah but g-werks is prob 250 miles away! im in leeds. g-werks is somewhere down south

[Riley 0]

im also ooooop north,but psd/g-werks have full blended my charger :)

should hopefully get it back tommorow!

 

it had a rebuild at jabba 11k ago,but was full of oil and made a knocking noise :(

 

worth it for piece of mind for me really.

 

like said,it sounds like it needs setting up to suit the new chip/pully?

 

pretty straight forward,especially if you have access to a c.o machine?

 

neil.

[olly elworthy 0]

bananaman was running a 3.5 bar FPR as tempest wanted to buy it off him,, thats one of your problems,,

[Henny 0]

Critical_Mass, MFA problem is a blown fuse or broken permanent live wire to the clocks... shouldn't be too difficult to find/fix it... 8)

[Critical_Mass 10]

Olly- what you mean thats one of your problems?

 

Thanks for the info lads. Ill go see about getting the timing checked etc see if that turns anything up. If not ill try the list of things that was stated earlier.

[bix 0]

Olly- what you mean thats one of your problems?

 

He means you need a 3.5bar fpr, and if its running lean without it you could do some serious damage to your engine :shocked!:

[olly elworthy 0]

yeap thats what i mean :shock:

[Critical_Mass 10]

sorry man i wasnt being funny with you, just didnt understand what you meant.

 

3.5 bar Fuel Pressume Regualtor, where can i get one, how much, how do i fit it?

 

will that sort the lack of improvement?

[Jim 1]

I'd really advise giving G-Werks a call.. they can supply you with the parts you need, and hopefully verify if thats actually what you need. It does sound like its part of your problem though..?