Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

[Riley 0]

Damn,forgot to add the injector loom to the list also! I fitted one from a known working car. :(

Edit:nope,i already added it to the list.

 

Cheers for the help m8,i may even venture upto the unit tonight to strip some of the throttle switch wiring back.

 

Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

sorry i tried my best to read through the whole thread but It's so long....

 

Have you tried changing the ECU relay.

Did you arrange for anyone to come and help you in the end(sorry i got to page 17 and then gave up)

 

If you know anyone with a G60 you could quickly swap a known good ecu relay in and see if it helps.

 

Has anyone checked the fuel pressure?

[ninoG60 0]

If you need my help Neil, just holler.

[DanVW 0]

Just a guess really mate never heard of it happening but you appear to have tried everything else!

It does sound like fuel starvation and the fact it goes away at WOT would lead me to think the ECU

is being told its at idle till the WOT switch is closed.

 

Check it from the ECU end of the loom to make sure you get a clean open/closed signal from both switches

 

Best of luck mate :)

 

Dan

[potatonet 0]

basically use the G60 ECU wiring diagram...

(dont know where mine is right now)

 

check for continuity between the wire ends.

 

also check out this guy

 

http://mysite.verizon.net/janvdb/vw/Eng ... blems.html

[mrdan00 0]

hi

 

sounds like your engine is stuck in timing setup mode.

i had this pain in the ass problem! easy fix and very cheap.

if you ever tried to set the timing up on your G60, you will no that you have to disconnect the BLUE water sensor on the top front of the engine so the engine can be changed into timing mode.

here's a way to test it.

start your G60 and pull the BLUE water sensor connection off. if the sensor is ok it will start running badly, so you need to put it back on, but if there's no change your sensor has had it and you need to replace it.

 

easy.

 

hope this helps

[Riley 0]

Hi m8,The blue temp sensor is a new vag one,and when disconnected the rpm drops to 500.

 

Ive gone through the wiring testing for continuity to/from the ecu plug.

Everything seems ok (can't believe im typing this,done it all before but what the hell...)

 

Just the below that got my attention but i think they are fine:

 

The brown/white on the throttle switch plug has continuity to ecu pins 5/6/9/10 which according to this ecu pinout diagram here is:

5 CO Adjustment blue

6 Ground (Sensors)

9 Air temp sensor blue/white

10 Coolant temp sensor brown/green

 

And again using the above link...It states that pin 6 should have continuity to the lambda earth.But ive never found this,but as above i think this is correct anyway as the lambda is earthed through the body/engine mount.

 

None of the other sensors/senders/earths end up at pins that they shouldn't do...so id say there is no shorting anywhere. :(

The fuel pressure has been checked (by a local jacka$$ garage) and seems to be ok according to the bentley manual.

Ecu relay has been swapped from a known working car,so has fuel pump relay.

 

Haven't had anyone look at the car apart from local garages/mates..and me who ran out of real patience nearly 2 years ago :? :( Just dying to find the cause though...

 

Darren,im just holding out on that offer of borrowing the lm1 at the mo...really have to watch the cash.

 

Neil.

[potatonet 0]

Im talking to a VW master mechanic right now, he works for a local garage in the area,

 

let me get this right, all the problems go away when the Wide open throttle switch is taped shut?

[Riley 0]

Yep,thats correct m8 :)

 

Its like a diffarent car,revs really responsively...ie:you stab the throttle and it responds straight away.Plus the popping totally dissapears.

 

Without it taped shut...you hit the throttle and it takes a second to respond,its just slow to rev,and every now and again it will pop instead of revving.

 

Cheers,Neil.

[Riley 0]

Im gonna end up doing sommet silly...

How the fu*k can it just start doing this after being parked up for 30 minutes nearly two Fuc*ing years ago!!!!!!!!!????????????????

 

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

 

And why does no bast*rd garage around here know what the fuc*ing hells wrong with it?????????

I swear...im on the verge of losing it with trolley jack in hand...would feel so good right now to put it right through every panel on the piece of sh|t :mad:

 

Video's:I couldnt get it to do the popping :mad: but i hope someone can tell the difference.

 

1st one,wot switch as it should be (excuse noise of mongy foot)

 

Second one,wot switch held closed.

[vr6 storm auto 0]

Hi

have you checked the co pot itself ? as it sounds mixture related and I have had one of these go faulty

I am sorry if this has been said before

 

Ross

[Riley 0]

Hi m8,yep...ive swapped the co pot from another known working corrado that i broke (have also checked that its adjusted correctly)

 

Cheers,Neil.

[Riley 0]

Guys...in the video's on previous page,someone has suggested it sounds like my isv is trying to hold the engine at idle?

 

What ya reckon?

[ninoG60 0]

dunno m8, but somepeople have done away with them, either unplugged them or blanked them off, think theres a post on dubforce about it. will get it 4 ya :D

[ninoG60 0]

http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.ph ... opic=10470

 

There u go Neil

[potatonet 0]

is your C a US spec C? cause your gallon thing says 15 and your readout is in MPH...???

 

sounds like fuel delivery problem BTW

[Riley 0]

Its a late uk g60 potatonet :) later ones have bigger fuel tanks...

 

I blanked off the isv at the inlet manifold,i left it connected electronically though as ive heard damage can be done to the ecu if its unplugged?

 

Anyway,started it up and it was just ticking over very low...tweaked the idle screw on the back of the throttle body and i couldn't believe how well/smooth it was running :?

Propper stable and smooth.

Took it for a spin and it seemed to drive pretty well,just felt smoother...but it was still slow to rev,and i think it 'popped' once. :(

 

Another thing though...Jesus christ,motorway on way back home i just gave it a bit of stick and it hit a definate 17 psi on the boost gauge felt like it too! Normally hits bang on 15 psi and no more. :?

 

I didn't go crazy because i understand that it could run lean,but jesus...felt addictive :lol:

 

Anyway...its still a piece of sh|t .

Neil.

[ninoG60 0]

leaky ISV?

Or would it vent through it once it got to 14 psi hence the high boost reading? ie the isv not being there , it cant vent it so it used it>?

still hope u can get summat sorted out with it, ref the popping etc

:(

Manny

[potatonet 0]

now you know what I feel as far as the boost goes! I try to tell everyone that but no one gets it!

 

anyway did you replace the rubber grommet on the idle adjust screw? that could be a problem though I doubt it.

 

the ISV - ECU thing is correct as well, I blew an ECU like that. plugging it and unplugging while running... bad idea...

[Riley 0]

Yep,i bought a new idle screw with the 'o' seal!

 

Ive just been searching and have come across something that caught my attention...

 

I can't remember the last time i heard my fuel pump 'run on' after turning the car off... I think im probably clutching at straws here...but you don't think its anything to do with the problem do you?

 

Maybe just the 'not starting first turn of the key' ?

But what about the popping/slow revving?

 

Can i bridge the wiring to the fuel pressure switch (on the end of the fuel rail) to see if it runs the pump? that would point to the pressure switch being faulty right?

 

Neil.

[potatonet 0]

HEY!!!!!!!!

 

sounds like a fix to me! my car doesnt start on the first crank unless I prime my fuel line twice, I have an extended line so it makes sense for my car.

 

someone near riley get a Fuel pressure gauge out to him right quick!

[Riley 0]

Here's hoping m8!

 

Anyone else any thoughts on the above? or are people getting bored of this now?

 

ps:My dad has kindly lent me the cash for a fuel pump...ive told him tuff sh|t if it dosn't fix the problem,but he reckons it will so... :lol:

 

Had a look at the pump earlier in the tank...looks like it will be fun to change :? and ive ordered the bare minimum (still £130 quid :shock: ) so im unsure if i need anything else...?

[nino 0]

heres hopin it will fix it, boy have you got some patience Neil, i take my hat off to ya!

Was thinkin , would this be a possibility, please dont shoot me down in flames but as i understand it, the auxillary shaft powers the dizzy shaft via a worm gear?

If the worm gear was worn on the auxillary shaft and it slipped a tooth every now and then, would that make the mark jump about? I dunno if that sounds right , probably load of rubbish, thought id share in the vain hope it may point to summat

Hope it is a success mate

Manny :)

[Riley 0]

Manny,that sounds plausable to me m8...May look into it,if i can be bothered...getting sick of messing now.

 

Have decided 100% now that im just gonna sort it whatever it takes (money permitting) and then get shot...pointless having it sat there doing nowt...

 

Will keep the borbet a's...and sell it with the porsche rims.

[dirtytorque 0]

did you order the fuel guage sender too?

 

The new pumps that they sell now are different to the original(brown) pumps that came with the G's

 

 

good luck.