Please help my g60 - Err where were we? Page 42

[Riley 0]

I haven't done m8,but yep...ive been told that i need the sender too. :( Tis on back order he said,so ill see if i can order it tommorow...

 

Cheers,Neil.

[dirtytorque 0]

these cars really like to suck money from you eh?!!!

 

 

:(

[Riley 0]

Aye...ya not wrong m8 :(

 

I bought this one on condition rather than engine choice too...really wish i hadn't bothered buying it.I hate to say that...but its been the worst car ive ever owned. :(

 

Neil.

[potatonet 0]

Neil, how old are you mate?

 

you dont need a sender unless you want to know how much gas you have, I suggest getting the car fixed then running the gas off of mileage on ure odometer. save the 40 quid... =-)

 

Ive owned 2 cars, my C and a 1969 VW bug, thought I was getting out of trouble once I got rid of the bug... negative.

 

I bought the car on availability... they dont exist in the US, or are limited. I do wish I bought a VR though

[Riley 0]

Im 28 years young in september potatonet,why you ask m8? :oops:

 

I hear what you say about the sender...but im an stupid perfectionist...drives me mental :lol:

 

The vr's are a nice smooth engine i must admit...But i must also admit that im not really a fan of either > g60 or vr6 :lol:

I like my normally aspirated,high revving,twin carbed 4 pots.

[potatonet 0]

just curious =-)

 

let us know how the fuel pump works out.

[Riley 0]

I was up at the unit earlier,reading some tech stuff i kindly got sent off someone on cgti...Not a lot i haven't already checked...

 

But!

I did read that the fuel pressure (after turning engine off) should hold at 2bar for 10 minutes...(iirc)

When the guy tested my fuel pressure,as soon as the engine was turned off the pressure dropped to zero pretty much straight away...maybe 5 seconds.

 

Now i have already replaced the fpr...

so i guess im asking if this would point to the pump? im sure i read somwhere that the pump has a non return valve built into it or something?

 

Cheers,Neil.

Pump turns up tommorow,but the sender to go with it may be a couple of weeks :(

I may try the pump on its own without the sender hooked up,what ya reckon?

[dirtytorque 0]

thats what I would do....

[Supercharged 2]

I don't think you can mate becuase of the electrical wiring but you could have a look...

[ninoG60 0]

Neil, Im up at the unit tomorrow working on Shauns car from about 7, want me to bring the bentleys so u can have a look?

[potatonet 0]

uh yeah I would say ure pump = gonzo my car holds pressure for like an hour...makes me sad because I like watching it spike quickly... =-(

[ninoG60 0]

just a thought, is the pump the same as the green golf?( Shirazs old un)

if so just whack that on with the sender and swap it back when u get ya new un?

[Riley 0]

Cheers guys...Manny,the pump is totally dffarent on shiraz's...reyt big numb silly thing on the corrado,diffarent pressure too.

May give you a shout tommorow re:the bentley manual.

 

I don't think you can mate becuase of the electrical wiring but you could have a look...

 

Aye...will have a look,was thinking i may be able to wire the new pump to the old sender,and just cable tie the old sender to new pump,just while i run it in the unit...hopefully i should instantly be able to tell if the problem dissapears.

 

Hope to god it works...

Neil.

[Riley 0]

Its not the fuel pump.

 

Going to put an advert together for the car.

Any idea on value from looking at my members motors thread? (with the design 90's,not the borbets)

 

Please don't say dont sell etc...Its time for someone else to take it on,and i cant afford to insure it anyway.

[potatonet 0]

damn that car is a bitch....

 

I almost sold mine a while ago for 8k US thats about 4000 GBP... =-/ I had a bad charger though

[Riley 0]

Small update:14/1/08

 

I tried a different (tidy) injector wiring loom and (tidy) pressure regulator today...The problem is still bloody well there! :(

 

But i did notice something i haven't clocked onto before...

 

The scenario:

 

Sat in car up to temp,quickly stabbing the throttle which keeps it around 1500rpm.

Its slow to rev and pops/farts.

The boost gauge jumps from -20 to 0.

 

And...When it pops/farts...The boost gauge really violently bangs up to +5 or +10 psi.

So quickly that you struggle to see it :?

 

So my thinking is that there is definately a problem within the intake system somewhere...But why would taping the WOT switch shut totally cure it!? :(

 

Neil.

[potatonet 0]

dude.... still the same problem?

 

I say you have a short circuit somewhere. (probably at the fuel pump). Take a multimeter and measure the voltage to the fuel pump while it does this nonsense. (its free, just takes time)

[potatonet 0]

post on the VWvortex forums, talk to MRKrad he is the guy from sns here in the US, he knows digifant like the back of his hand.

[DanVW 0]

If you are seeing +ve pressure in the intake manifold when she pops/farts that means the missfire

is going back up the inlet manifold past the inlet valves, now I know you have checked the timing

and its bang on so its got to be pre-ignition :idea:

 

CAUSES OF PRE-IGNITION (Lifted from http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm)

 

Carbon deposits form a heat barrier and can be a contributing factor to preignition. Other causes include: An overheated spark plug (too hot a heat range for the application). Glowing carbon deposits on a hot exhaust valve (which may mean the valve is running too hot because of poor seating, a weak valve spring or insufficient valve lash).

 

A sharp edge in the combustion chamber or on top of a piston (rounding sharp edges with a grinder can eliminate this cause).

 

Sharp edges on valves that were reground improperly (not enough margin left on the edges).

 

A lean fuel mixture.

 

Low coolant level, slipping fan clutch, inoperative electric cooling fan or other cooling system problem that causes the engine to run hotter than normal.

 

Sound possable? Or am I talking poo (again) :-(

[Riley 0]

dude.... still the same problem?

 

I say you have a short circuit somewhere. (probably at the fuel pump). Take a multimeter and measure the voltage to the fuel pump while it does this nonsense. (its free, just takes time)

 

Yeah,same problem mate :(

Just that the g is off the road now so i can mess with it as and when i guess.

I will have a look on the vortex and see what comes up...haven't been on there for a while :)

 

 

Dan,

 

Im open to all poss causes mate :D

All the carbon build up idea etc is probably along the wrong lines,after having the head off/reseating the valves etc...But the lean mixture is a possability,as its slow to rev too (unless WOT taped shut)

 

Im just wondering if there is something wrong with my spec maybe thats been overlooked? :?

 

Full blend psd charger.

68mm pully.

sns stage 5 chip.

 

Neil.

[DanVW 0]

I guess the quick way to discount pre-ignition would be if it does it from cold? Also what about the FPR?

have you replaced it or tried a known good one from a working G60? Wish I was a bit closer mate bet

we could find it in a weekend of part swapping :-(

[Riley 0]

From what i remember (sorry its been a hell of an adventure? :lol: ) it dosn't do it when first started...I don't think. :oops:

 

Ive tried 3 fpr's on it now (1 yesterday) so i can discount a problem there.

Ive pretty much swapped/replaced everything i possibly can really :shock:

 

Neil.

[DanVW 0]

Bugger :-( my money is still on pre-ignition though, just because it doesnt start till the engine is hot and

the manifold pressure rocketing when she misfires.

 

Know this doesnt really help you but I would be looking at picking up another G60 block and head for a swap

as its off the road at the moment anyway, as on the bright side if it solves the problem great 8)

if not you can always flog the engine on and you hae not lost any money on it just time and effort.

 

Easy for me to say though I know how much time effort and money you have thrown at this problem already!

[dirtytorque 0]

You took the head off before didn't you?

Should be quite obvious signs for Pre-ignition as it is quite a deadly scenario for an engine is it not?!!

And the plugs should show signs of it also!??

its worse than knock(post ignition) as is my understanding anyway. :?

 

Have you done a compression test?

Shame its all off road and so far I'd love a crack at it,although I would probably soon get demoralised Lol.

 

sorry if you have answered all the qestions already Riley but this is page 32 and I couldn't be arsed to read it all again :)

[Supercharged 2]

Riley - I take it the fault occurs as the car gets warm?

 

If so what happens if you let the fault show and then plug in a different BTS (a cold one) and just leave it hanging there in the engine bay...

 

If it then returns to normal, hold the BTS against the cyl head until the fault re-appears...

 

If the above happens then it proves the warm up map (fuel enrichment) is working fine but there is something wrong after it switches to hot running - ie Lambda or COPOT fault or something connected to these...