AQUAMIST - Gonna need some assistance installing this!!!!

[Blue_Joe 0]

So I've gone and splashed out!!(literally on water injection!!!!)

 

So just some simple things and I know it's been discussed in a broad sense on the Water Inj Group Buy but....

 

Obviously I'm doing alot of engine work culminating in a custom remap at the end of the build. So the kit I bought was a Aquamist 2D that has the intelligence not to need mapping but actually detects the fuel flow through the injectors so.....

 

Do I have the car mapped without the water injection working and then due to it's intelligence let the brains of the water injection do the wok or..

 

Do I have it mapped with the water injection. However does this have implcations that I can't let the water run out and if it does what knock on effects would that have.

 

Oh my Word have I stepped into a minefield by buying this?????

 

And anything else I should consider????

[Chris M 0]

Hi Sam,

 

For the best results I would have it mapped with the water injection, because there are big gains to be had with more advanced timing and a slightly lean mixture. But you will need some fail safe devices should the water fail, to stop detonation.

 

You would need some way of sensing the water supply just before the water jets, something like a pressure switch. Then you will need some kind of electric dump valve, that if the water SHOULD be on but has not triggered the pressure switch the dump valve would then dump all the boost.

 

I don't know if the ISV could be rigged to do this job.

 

It might be a mine field but i think you are in the perfect position to make the most of water injection, if you don't then you will probably wonder what it would be like if you had.

 

I'm sure someone with more electronic knowlage will be able to help more.

[Blue_Joe 0]

However on the downside of mapping it, If I run out of water when the engine is wanting water then I could end up with a melted piston and other major damage to the engine! Bearing in mind that the kit will use approximatly 300cl/min so 3ltrs every 10mins That would mean that even with a 7 ltr bottle I would need to stop every 20 mins if on full boost!!!!!!

 

Thats alot of stopping and starting and expensive if I want to run water/methanol mixture!!!!

[Lippy 0]

Bearing in mind that the kit will use approximatly 300cl/min so 3ltrs every 10mins That would mean that even with a 7 ltr bottle I would need to stop every 20 mins if on full boost!!!!!!

 

Holy s**t!!

[Chris M 0]

Are you sure thats cl and not cc

 

Ive been running 500cc jets in my car for over 2 weeks now with some fair old thrashing and used about 3L of water/methanol mix

[Blue_Joe 0]

Well I spoke to Justin at aquamist and he told me that it would use a coke can full every minute at full boost (bearing in mind the kit I have is progressive so this figure is at maximum boost)

 

But I am arranged a call with the MD of ERL (Aquamist) this evening to discuss in greater detail.

[Blue_Joe 0]

Chris M, Thanks - Will check that figure with Richard as thought it was ALOT!

[beavis 0]

Well I spoke to Justin at aquamist and he told me that it would use a coke can full every minute at full boost (bearing in mind the kit I have is progressive so this figure is at maximum boost)

 

But I am arranged a call with the MD of ERL (Aquamist) this evening to discuss in greater detail.

 

I went to see Justin and Richard on Friday, two very knowledgeable chaps. The 2D system uses water more conservatively than the 1S system and will calculate when to inject water when it is necessary rater than at the upper threshold of boost.

 

It is possible to get the car mapped relying upon the water injection, you can use less fuel top end and dial in more ignition advance. But as mentioned before, this really does need to be combined with a fail safe system which will retard ignition timing accordingly. For a fast road car I would personally get the car mapped on the upper threshold of the ignition advance and use the water injection as safety when you have it turned on.

[Blue_Joe 0]

Thanks Steve - Just out of interest if I was to map the car to rely on the water injection, how would I build in a failsafe device to retard the ignition timing??????

 

I have also bought the Dash Display Unit for the extra failsafes it uses, don't know if that would help???

[keithmac 0]

DDS 3 will fault monitor the sustem and can be rigged up to dump boost in the event of a WI failure. If you`re in digi1 you may not have the ability of map switching, so the car drops into `safe` map when the DDS3 tells it there`s a failure.

 

I run a 1s on a 0.8mm jet and the water usage isn`t that bad really (4l reovoir), probably 1 tank of fuel per 4l water?

 

I can`t see you hammering it constantly on boost, only while accelerating?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

What Beavis says, i.e. map it with the maximum advance the engine will comfortably handle without the water and use the water to reduce charge temp and relax the knock sensors. Then if the water runs out, you're not going to suddenly be running a high advance table the engine won't like.

 

And not being rude mate, the simplest way round this is to just keep an eye on the water level, or get a water level sensor from a modern car that monitors washer levels and graft it in higher up the bottle than normal for a saftey margin.

 

Trust me, you won't use 3 litres in 10 minutes. You simply won't ever be in a situation where you will be continuously on full boost on public roads. Track days, yes.

 

Good move on the dash display, that is a must imo. It uses an impeller in the water line which then triggers a hall sender. This is the most reliable and least flow restrictive way to do it.

 

In my Aquamist days, the pumps were useless and broke every 3 months. I could have done with the dash display then! Now ALL the kits come with the far superior race spec pump and are 10 times more reliable.

 

I think you're getting overly concerned about nothing. Use your common sense as a fail safe, no offense meant.

[beavis 0]

We do it in a couple of different way. We either use the MF2 to control a valve to bleed off boost or use the MF2 unit to send a signal to the ECU and then remap it to retard ignition timing. Digifant can be manipulated to handle other inputs, but if you do it crudely, like Keith says you will just end up throwing the car into failsafe mode.

I would still advise to map it safely with the water off for a road car, there are too many other factors that can compromise safety otherwise. The new dash gauge is quite a useful piece of kit, once it is set up.. Then left well alone. As mentioned common sense is the best failsafe factor, the water will last you a while if the system is set up correctly, if you are getting though it in unacceptable quantities then the system is poorly set up and running inefficiently.

[Blue_Joe 0]

So - Got the kit!!!

 

Hmmmmm looks like it's going to get interesting. Does anyone on here no exactly what they are doing with this kit?? And do you live anywhere near Birmingham so that when I'm in a position to fit this (ie Engine completed) that would be able to give me and Stevemac a hand! I make a mean cuppa tea!!!!!

[potatonet 0]

oh my gosh I forgot about tea time.... hahahaha what time is Tea time again? 4:00?