Electrical Gremlins

[Dutch24V 0]

Well, can't find anything after a weekend of searching and half the dash removed again. All electrics work except the reverse lights and bloody no. 6 fuse keeps blowing. I tried to unplug the aux. water pump but the bolts that hold the plastic cover in place have rounded off so can't get to the conector :x

 

P&ssed off with it now so will leave it as is.

I don't get the fan wiring at all though, as there are 4 wires that run from the speed selector switch to the fan conector, and 1 brown wire that runs from the fan conector to the car body, which is presuably negative. Where does the live come from??

 

Thanks for the help all, especially chris...

 

DutchPieceOfSh$t

[RW1 0]

Hmmm… very frustrating. Here’s the wire to the cabin fan control switch. 5 in total at the switch. Is that a clue??? To a missing trapped wire?

 

“Where does the live come from?? ” - It should be connected to the switch – pin 2!

 

Cabin Fan Controller Switch wires:

 

Black/Yellow - +12 volts ignition

White - Fan speed 1

Yellow/Black - Fan speed 2

Yellow - Fan speed 3

White/Yellow - Fan speed 4

 

At fan motor end: (Additional wires not at Fan Control Switch end)

 

Brown – Earth.

 

-----

 

Internally, fan motor has Red - +12 volts, Brown – earth.

 

Not on fuse 6 but to avoid confusion, Grey/Blue wire is +12 volts illumination, Thin Brown wire – earth for illumination only.

 

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[Dutch24V 0]

Sorry, after double-checking there are 5 wires connecting to the internal speed selector switch matching the colours you say above :oops:

 

I have the Bentley book and have located all the wiring diagrams that apply to the 94 model year AAA engine. I know it's not a bible but I do see where the blower circuit connects to the aux. water pump one now, track 33 to track 22, into the radiator fan speed controller itself. Maybe that is the problem causing the fuse to blow and we know the water pump after-run circuit doesn't work too?

 

I've ordered a new aux. water pump anyhow so will replace that at the weekend. I don't think it'll solve my electrical problems, but the bearings are shot so it needs replacing and you never know!

If not guess I'm going to buy a new controller too and see f that fixes it, as it seems related to me?

 

My alarm keeps randomly arming itself now too btw. Not sure if it's related but it does connect to the same earthing point as the blower motor?

 

Dutch

[Dutch24V 0]

...aux. water pump doesn't work at all now.

 

Will it do any damage parking up, engine off, after a long motorway trip without the coolant being circulated and hence cooled properly?

 

Can't replce it 'til the weekend and I need her for work this week :(

 

Dutch

[RW1 0]

Hi Dutch,

 

With the weather being cold, I'd just drive it for 5 minutes at 40kph or so to get the oil temp down to some lower level like town driving readings. It's not as though its a hot day these days. Just don't abruptly halt the engine at top temperature.

 

Chris

[Dutch24V 0]

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks for all the help. I have replaced the aux. water pump today and all is working well, except the after run still doesn't work when the ignition is off?

 

I found the wiring for the 3rd speed controller too - it was trapped under the battery, the Black/Yellow wire was chaffed through and touching the bodywork! I guess this explained the fuse blowing!?

 

Anyhow, I have fixed the wiring up and tydied it away for the time being as the temp. sender which is disconnected has 4 pins, not 2. Guess I need to get one with 2 pins for a VR without air co.?

 

So the last remaining problem - the aux. water pump after-run. Guess it's the fan controller itself then, or does the 3rd speed fan temp. sender need to be connected for it to work?

 

Dutch

[RW1 0]

Dutch,

 

Glad to hear there is progress.

 

Aux. Pump – On the yellow temp sensor in the thermostat housing, short out pins 1 & 4 with the ignition off. That’s the red/black wire to brown/green (early cars are brown/red to brown). The rad fan should run (not full blast though) and so should the aux. pump. If not there’s a controller fault. If they do run, then the yellow temp gauge/run-on fan switch is suspect on the switch part.

 

The third fan stage wires/sender should not affect the circuit as they run off the “X” relief circuit (igniton on only).

 

Normally if the engine is too warm after stopping the engine, turning off the ignition with this condition should run the rad fan normally and the aux. pump until the yellow sensor switch turns off. So I wouldn’t expect an aux. pump only. Otherwise the pump is just circulating uncooled hot coolant.

 

The choice on the third stage sender is either refit a 2 pin plug or a 2 pin sender. In going the plug way, you may destroy the little pins and so have hassle re-pinning the wire ends, so I would tend to put a new 2 pin sender in.

 

Chris

 

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[Dutch24V 0]

Hmmm, from what Kev was saying earlier in another post I thought that the aux. water pump after-run comes on even if you flick the ignition on and immediately off again, regardless of engine temp.

 

Quote\

The after run is triggered when you turn the ignition off, even if you just flip the ignition on then off immediately, cold or hot. I'm sure the controller governs it. Some of the wires in the left hand plug on the controller dissapear into the car, see if you can trace them to the fuseboard.

\Quote

 

Is this not the case then and am I worrying about nothing?

 

Dutch

[RW1 0]

There are two 3 speed rad fan circuits. From August 1991 to July 1994 & post August 1994 (Chassis 50SK00****). The change is in the fan controller and wire thicknesses. The early fan controller has one fuse, 50 amp built in – part number 1H0 919 506. The later has 3 fuses, 5 amp, 20amp & 50 amp built in, part number 357 919 506. The change of this part is tied to the year previous in the parts listings, ie, the controller was changed August 1993.

 

Interchangeable. Well - no. Same circuit but different pin number connections in the plug, different wire current ratings and fuses change, early are fuses 13 – 10 amp, 19 – 30 amp while the later circuit is fuses 6 – 30 amp, fuse 19 - 30 amp.

 

My 1995 Corrado “does not”/”never has” run the aux. pump unless either the ignition is on, engine running or not or….. when the ignition is turned off AND the engine is hot, ie. the yellow sensor has tripped on. In the latter condition it runs, as soon as the ignition is switched off, the rad fan and aux pump until the yellow thermo switch trips off. Turning the ignition on & off does not trip the pump on when the engine is cold.

 

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[Dutch24V 0]

Thanks for clearing that up.

My VR was manufactured in March '94 and it has the later type controller with 3 fuses in, so should work like yours then.

 

I will short pins 1-4 and see what happens, but I think it's now all working as it should.

 

Thanks again Chris...

 

Dutch