Name that...thing...?!

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Right the 1st one comes out just beside the airbox, is it meant to go into something?!

 

Second one, is the airbox, at the bottome, is the meant to be nothing going into this pipe?

 

(The car aint running still)

 

Funnily enough, my neighbour has bought a MKII with the same engine as mine, and having the same problems as me!

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Also when I grab my airbox, I can really move it about.

 

Previous owner told me that if airbox isn't correctly connected, it can cause the car not to run properly.

[CorradoVR6-Turbo 0]

The bottom picture is supposed to have a hot air feed pipe from the exhaust.but I would leave it off.Its not needed.

 

As long as the top half of airbox is correctly connected it should run,if there is a pipe off ect from the air filter up the engine will not be able to draw the metering flap up and allow fuel into engine.

 

The top picture is a wire? Unsure of what this does.

[bcstudent 0]

Hmmmm...what was the original problem? It'd be handy if all the information relating to your running problem was kept in the same thread.

 

I remember a thread about the distributor and Hall sender. Can you remind me what state the car is currently at? Is there fuel at the injectors, is there a spark, etc.?

 

I'll have a look in my engine bay when it's a bit lighter outside but that 'thing' doesn't look familiar. Is it a pipe or an electrical cable?

 

The story about the airbox not being fixed down causing bad running sounds like rubbish to me.

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Hmmmm...what was the original problem? It'd be handy if all the information relating to your running problem was kept in the same thread.

 

Well the car is running ghey really, it was fine until I stoped at a junction, then went to pull off and the car went all funny. When accelerating, there is a funny "farting" noise from the front, and there is nooo power whatsoever.

 

remember a thread about the distributor and Hall sender. Can you remind me what state the car is currently at? Is there fuel at the injectors, is there a spark, etc.?

 

Well I got new distributor etc etc but I'm pretty sure the timing is out.

 

I'll have a look in my engine bay when it's a bit lighter outside but that 'thing' doesn't look familiar. Is it a pipe or an electrical cable?

 

I'll go get a better closer shot tomoz.

 

The story about the airbox not being fixed down causing bad running sounds like rubbish to me.

 

Hmm, I can remember once about a year ago he took a pipe out and the car kept stalling or something.

 

The bottom picture is supposed to have a hot air feed pipe from the exhaust.but I would leave it off.Its not needed.

 

Ahh right ok, just never noticed it before.

[bcstudent 0]

Hmm, I can remember once about a year ago he took a pipe out and the car kept stalling or something.

 

Excuse me for not reading correctly. Yeah, that makes sense.

 

So the car starts and runs, but just runs badly?

[White2505 0]

Ben,

if thats a brown wire in a black outer sheath then it goes to a sensor (that looks like it may be temperature sensor) on the left front airbox end of the inlet manifold/head.

 

My post this afternoon is to ask what the hell this sensor is and what it does as I have no idea!!

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Hmm, I can remember once about a year ago he took a pipe out and the car kept stalling or something.

 

Excuse me for not reading correctly. Yeah, that makes sense.

 

So the car starts and runs, but just runs badly?

 

Yea, is rough as hell when idling, and have to rev it a fair bit to stop it from stalling. But I'm keeping my driving time down as low as possible.

[White2505 0]

mine is also missing that pipe off the back of the airbox and runs absolutely no probelm at all.

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

mine is also missing that pipe off the back of the airbox and runs absolutely no probelm at all.

 

Okey doke mate, thanks for the help :)

[bcstudent 0]

Does the car running improve with increased temperature, or is it as rough as hell all the time? Could the warm-up regulator be knackered?

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

It does get better when it's been runnin for a while, but it's still crap as hell.

[bcstudent 0]

Well, like you say, checking the timing is probably a simple place to start. There's obviously *some* ignition and *some* fuel. It's just a case of finding out which one is not doing it's job properly.

[The Leningrad Cowboy 0]

I had a problem when the airbox worked itself loose at the jubilee clamp (OK, I may have forgotten to tighten it properly!) it kept stalling, and the only way to keep it going was by way-over revving. This was because the air was getting into the engine bypassing the filter and the Air Mass Flow Sensor, so the ECU thought there was tiny amounts of air going through, and thus fueling at a very low level. So, over-revving was the only way round it until I redid the band.

I'm assuming that you've checked that the air filter etc is all connected and feeding the engine properly, so I'm not sure if my diatribe will help, but ultimately if the air flow meter doesn't think air is going in (whether it's disconnected, shorted or really not seeing any air) then it will idle very poorly, and need some revs to get anything near normal.

I feel like this probably won't help, but there you go - my tuppence (ok, quarter of a penny's worth!).

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

The Leningrad Cowboy, yea I think it may have come loose, and only way I have to keep it from stalling is over revving, like I said, if I grab the airbox I can move it around quite a bit!

 

Sorry but I dont know how to do what you said to check lol!

[bcstudent 0]

I think he's talking about the Jubilee clip that attaches the rubbber air hose (feeding the inlet manifold) to the fuel distributor on the airbox. Just make sure it's tight and there are no splits or air leaks.

[davidwort 0]

The Leningrad Cowboy, yea I think it may have come loose, and only way I have to keep it from stalling is over revving, like I said, if I grab the airbox I can move it around quite a bit!

 

Sorry but I dont know how to do what you said to check lol!

 

What you really need to do is systematically check through a bunch of things.

 

firstly, the worst offenders are the vacuum pipes, they run from the manifold (right rear) to the ECU, dash(MPG), brake servo (big black one!) and then from under the throttle body to the air flap in the air box and to the auxiliary air valve (thing under inlet pipe from metering head to throttle body)

the rubber connectors have a tendancy to perish and leak with age and people often get them connected up wrong.

The air bleed screw (idle speed) on side of throttle body can get gummed up and needs removing and cleaning, likewise the idle stabalisation valve(make sure this buzzes with ignition on).

The Warm up regs and metering heads are pretty reliable but can cause problems if water gets in the fuel.

also check the microswitch on the throttle body operates with the throttle cable slack (closed).

There's a lot of info on k-jet problems on the Club GTI forum too, worth a read.

don't give up, it's probably nothing expensive and you can get most bits cheap second hand anyway.

Does it pull OK through the rev range, i.e. is it an idle problem, are your plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm all OK?

Timing is pretty easy to check, both ignition and engine. A timing light helps though.

Make sure the rotor arm is aligned with the mark inside the dizzy (i.e no. 1 cyl.) and you can see the timing and TDC marks on the flywheel through the inspection cover on the top of the gearbox. The one marked '0' is TDC the notch/groove is 6 degrees adv.

 

David.

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

WOW :shock: Thanks for all that David, much appreciated.!

 

Like you said, it's most likely something simple, I'm gonna print that off and get some help checking all that!!

 

Noticed today that one of the clips that secure the 2 parts of the airbox wasn't clipped on.

 

Thanks again mate :)

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Oh and another thing, it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders..

[bcstudent 0]

Try and isolate the cylinder that's not firing by removing each plug lead in turn while it's running; if you remove one and there's no change then you've found your cylinder.

[veeDuB_Rado 0]

Brilliant idea mate, would've thought doing that would knacker it.

 

When I taken out the leads normally, all of them would have a fair amount of oil on them, I thought this was normal until I saw my neighbour take his out, and they were clean...