Dutch24V 0 Posted April 20, 2006 No idea what has broken at the moment, but I hear/feel a deep clunking/metal on metal type noise when turning sharply at any speed. It seems to be coming from the front right wheel area. I have looked and can't see anything strange and when I rock the car or push on the wheels when stationary it doesn't do it. Strange thing is this morning on the way to work on the motorway there was a strong, nasty burning smell. It was so strong infact I almost stopped as I thought something was on fire, but after a while the smell faded so I caried on. My dipstick rubber seal has perished and *some* oil seeps out onto hot metal so I just put it down to that. Reflecting on that now though it definately wasn't oil burning as I know that smell pretty well by now :oops: I'm thinking maybe something related to the drivetrain has perished, but no idea what? I haven't a clue whan it comes to suspention / driveshaft bits so was wondering if anyone has any ideas? CV-joint maybe? :? I'm just going for a quick spin to see if I can figure out some more. ...hopefully a wheel wont fall off or worse. Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 20, 2006 Sounds suspiciously like an outer CV joint. Is it a metallic rumbling, clonk? Not a grinding noise? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 20, 2006 Just got back from a spin and yep, that's what it sounds like Kev. It sort of sounded/felt like a large spring creaking type noise/feeling and I could feel it through the floor quite severely. It's seems louder when turning to the left, but the sound is more from the middle right of the car and I can feel it through my feet on the drivers side (LHD)?? Would the burning smell come from a dead cv-joint? Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 20, 2006 Only if the CV gaitor split and spat grease on the disc :-) But I presume you have the metal back plate in place behind the disc still, which is there to prevent that from happening. Creaking spring sounds slightly concerning, could be a siezed top mount not allowing the spring to turn. Does the steering get heavier when this noise occurs? Inner CVs generally click-clack when you pull away, outer CVs make a deep, metallic thudding noise as you turn and worsens with steering angle. I think you need to jack it up and have a nose around mate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted April 20, 2006 I once had a rear engine mount go causing the engine to rock forwards under heavy cornering and reversing, this in turn ploughed the alternator belt into the chassis leg making a grinding and when the pulley hit -a graunching sound! Took me ages to work out what it was! Needless to say I've replaced all the mounts now! Just check the belt/chassis leg by the alternator for rubbing.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 20, 2006 Thanks guys. I'll check around again in the morning now when it's light. Another un-paid day off due to the C by the looks of it :( The steering didn't seem to get heavier when cornering btw and I've tried reversing/accelerating whilst stationary with the brake on and the engine doesn't move more than usual. The top mount idea sounds a good one as it defo. felt spring related somehow. If I bounce the car though nothing? Does the spring turn then? It did feel like that sort of a creaking tension and then a deep clunking and it does seem to be corner load dependent, not speed. Also when going over speed bumps, just as she makes contact with the bump, it sometimes clatters abit and something sounds loose for a split second. How would I spot a dead top mount then and if it happens when turning to the left more would that point to the left or right one? Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 20, 2006 Yeah the springs and dampers turn with the steering. The bearing in the top mount takes care of that, otherwise the spring would just stretch when you turn and eventually snap. That's exactly what happened on a mate's Ford Cortina, LOL! The top mount bearing seized solid and the spring was just stretching and then eventually there was an almight TWANG, followed by a nasty clunk. Game over for that spring :-) I must admit, I've never heard of a VR top mount doing that as they're strong old things, but it's not impossible. You can only really tell by removing the top mount and inspecting it as jacking it up and turning the wheel just removes the load and won't tell you anything. If you can get a finger between the top cap and top mount rubber, then it's pretty much past it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 21, 2006 When I jack the car up so the front wheels are off the ground I can grap either wheel and move it up about 1cm. The whole suspention and shock lift up with the wheel and the top bit in the engine bay lifts up too. When the car is standing on the front wheels there is a 1cm gap between the top of the supsention and the car body. Also the top part of the suspention on the LH side moves freely and has a good 3mm of play side to side. I presume this is not good? Is this pointing to dead top mounts or shocks? Going to pop to a friendly garage to see if they can tell me for sure as I need her back on the road a.s.a.p. Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tug 0 Posted April 21, 2006 Have you checked the ARB drop links? One of mine sheared a few months ago and the ARB was clonking on the wishbone and also rubbing against the CV boot. It could be friction melting the rubber? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 21, 2006 Thanks tug. I have checked around the CV joint area and all looks good though. I think I could just smell impending doom from my engine as the amount of smoke she was producing this morning was not normal :oops: It cleared up after 30 seconds or so though :) The garage reckons it the top mount bearing or what ever, so I'm going to remove the suspension now and pop it to VAG. They will press the new bearing on properly for me, which is nice of them! Will report back if it's the solution. Thanks again... Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 21, 2006 tug, I stand corrected and you were spot on with the ARB drop link. It's sheered off and the ARB was rubbing on the outer most edge of the rubber boot. Luckily the rubber is still in tact and the CV itself looks fine. The top mount and bearing are OK too, just the top plate bolt was loose. I've just got back from a 20 minute walk to my local VW dealers and unbelievably they had 2 in stock :) ...38 euro each though for those little bits of metal :shock: Will try and reassemble it all shortly. Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tug 0 Posted April 21, 2006 tug, I stand corrected and you were spot on with the ARB drop link. Well I'll be damned! Glad you've found a solution Dutch, IIRC the ARB has a reverse thread on it, so it's anti-clockwise to screw the drop link in. Good luck! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 21, 2006 Thanks for the tip mate. There is no room to screw the new, unbroken, drop-link in though, so I'm going to have to drop the sub frame arm and pop the drive shaft out I reckon. Do you know if I can infact simply push the drive shaft out when I remove the large centre nut on the hub or is there more to in than that? Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dutch24V 0 Posted April 22, 2006 Problem sorted and all is well again :) Cheers guys, Dutch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
