1990 G60 Timing F**ked up URGENT! HELP PLEASE

[2_Door_fun 0]

You need to move the dizzy by twisting the toothed pulley to its dot timing mark. Then slacken the bolt and twist the body of the dizzy so the notch is at 12.00 oclock. This is factory timing I belive.

 

The Dot on the pulley (Aux) should be set to 45 mins past the hour. ie/ so the dot is facing the engine bulkhead.

 

See this link for a tech diagram

 

It should fire up once all timing marks are alingned. Mine runs a treat now. Well except my rad fan won't kick in..

[Spykee 0]

You need to move the dizzy by twisting the toothed pulley to its dot timing mark. Then slacken the bolt and twist the body of the dizzy so the notch is at 12.00 oclock. This is factory timing I belive.

 

The Dot on the pulley (Aux) should be set to 45 mins past the hour. ie/ so the dot is facing the engine bulkhead.

 

See this link for a tech diagram

 

It should fire up once all timing marks are alingned. Mine runs a treat now. Well except my rad fan won't kick in..

 

ok well i have done the first bit so that the two marks on the cam pulley are aligned so that it is at TDC but when i move the dizzy to the 12 o'clock position should the rotor arm also be positioned at the 12 o'clock position as well? if it isnt how do i move the rotor so that it is without knocking everything else out of allignment?

 

cheers,

[2_Door_fun 0]

You need to move the dizzy by twisting the toothed pulley to its dot timing mark. Then slacken the bolt and twist the body of the dizzy so the notch is at 12.00 oclock. This is factory timing I belive.

 

The Dot on the pulley (Aux) should be set to 45 mins past the hour. ie/ so the dot is facing the engine bulkhead.

 

See this link for a tech diagram

 

It should fire up once all timing marks are alingned. Mine runs a treat now. Well except my rad fan won't kick in..

 

ok well i have done the first bit so that the two marks on the cam pulley are aligned so that it is at TDC but when i move the dizzy to the 12 o'clock position should the rotor arm also be positioned at the 12 o'clock position as well? if it isnt how do i move the rotor so that it is without knocking everything else out of allignment?

 

cheers,

 

Hi mate.. Ahhh the delights of Top dead centre and Timing an engine. Basically if the dizzy pulley is at mark then the rotor arm should be at 12.00 oclock. The two are linked as you move the arm the pulley will move and vice versa. Then twist the dizzy body till the mark is infront of the arm and there ya go. TDC is acheived. Obviousley all other pulleys n stuff have to be at TDC also for the engine to fire. Basically the ability of the dizzy body to twist is to make adjustments with a timing gun. It enables far finer adjustment than say 1 tooth on the pulleys.

 

Goodluck...

[Spykee 0]

cheers for the advice..... im still getting problems though as the crank and the cam pulleys line up properly but then the rotor isnt at 12 o'clock so im still getting the same problem with the car not starting and to add to that now the 3rd stage of the ingnition barrel has packed in so the starter motor doesnt even bloody turn :(:(

 

just ordered an S2000 engine starter button to sort this though as i know that the ignition barrels are known to go on the C so i thought its easier to have a starter than keep forking out for the new barrel each time! plus ive already had 2 barrels as it is!!!

[Riley 0]

Spykee, if your cam/crank are lined up good...you can actually forget the intermediate shaft (connected to rotor arm,dont have to be at 12 o clock)

 

all you have to do is turn the dizzy body until the rotor arm points at the notch,although it looks like it is in your above pic. :)

 

neil.

[Spykee 0]

Spykee, if your cam/crank are lined up good...you can actually forget the intermediate shaft (connected to rotor arm,dont have to be at 12 o clock)

 

all you have to do is turn the dizzy body until the rotor arm points at the notch,although it looks like it is in your above pic. :)

 

neil.

 

Neil,

 

well thats the thing, i did move the dizzy to match the position of the rotor arm after having a mess about with it and returning it back to its original position, which is why i dont understand why the car still wont start :?

 

im getting my mate who is a mechanic to look at it tomorrow though so he should be able to sort it for me :)

 

cheers for the advice :)

[Riley 0]

no probs m8,good luck with it :)

 

have you checked the obvious,plug leads/firing order/dizzy connection etc? i know you probably have but always worth a shot...

 

neil.

[Spykee 0]

no probs m8,good luck with it :)

 

have you checked the obvious,plug leads/firing order/dizzy connection etc? i know you probably have but always worth a shot...

 

neil.

 

yeh checked all that so im totally baffled about why it wont start now :?

 

fires ok, correct order, dizzy is ok, fuel is ok etc...

 

gonna have to have a few more scratches of the head to think what it could be as its gotta be something else now :roll:

[localhost.80 0]

This worked for me after many days of kicking and screaming!!

My Car 1990 G60 8v USA Specs(I don't know about 16V or VR6)

***PLEASE READ NOTES AFTER AND NO SKIMMING OR MICKY MOUSING ANYTHING

1. Discconnect Battery.

3 .Remove Tensionizer & Timing Belt (Replace if needed)

2. Align marks on Camshaft Pulley With Belt Off

3. Turn crankshaft pulley couter clockwise(I Think) till mark on pully is line up with arrow

(use a screwdriver on no.1 spark plug hole till piston push screwdriver all the up if any trouble rises :D )

4. Make sure crankshaft pulley & bolts are NOT loose (Replace with DX Bolt & Washer if need)

5. Remove Gearbox Plug on the right side and check TDC mark "0" and NOT "|"

6. Align Intermediate Shaft with Crankshaft Marks "v" and centering dot on intermediate shaft.

7. Replace belt and starting at crankshaft-->intermediate shaft->camshaft

(try not to move pulleys & make some marking too for future references!)

8. remove plugs & distributor cap and connection wire

9. Make sure rotor and dizzy mark is pointing @ sparkplug no.1 firing order which is @ 12'oclock straight up(I had trouble with this at first) :oops: if not

turn the distributor by loosing the bolt under the dizzy.

10. Check marks just in case.

11. Check again...Still your are happy with results :)

12. Put back on the crankshaft pulley and all 4 allen bolts

13. Check timing belt and tensionizer

14. Turn crankshaft twice and check timing marks(make sure tdc "0" is align up on flywheel)

16. Put back on the dizzy cap and connections

17. Check spark plug wire firing order

1 - Up

2 - Left

3 - Right

4 - Down

Center - Ignition Coil (Also make sure ground(Black wire) is screwed down to valve cover on the right!)

17. Check your g60 chargers pipes lines are O.K!(mine had a acid burn from a busted battery)

18. Check ALL vaccum hoses for any leaks or if they are missing.

19. Put back on the battery any thing else

20. Almost forgot make sure the dizzy clamp bolt on tight enough

21. Cross Fingers or If you lost them trying (PRY!!!)

22. Listen to engine for any squeaky or humming sounds from engine belts also I recommend that you have someone sit in the drivers seat and start

engine while you check the belts

23. Continue to TIMING GUIDE!!

 

TIMING(I didn't have a timing light GGGRRR)

----------------------------------------------

1. Turn on engine

2. Let is idle till oil is @ 80 C (176 F) minimum with Blue Temp Sensor Connected

3. Remove Blue Temp Sensor Connection

4. loosen enough the bolt on distributor base clamp(Dont remove bolt with car ON!)

5. rotate distributor as necessary and try to obtain specification adjust 6 at 1 degree (bumping it maybe works) Idle should be at 2000 to 2500 RPM

6. re-connect coolant temperature

7. Rev Engine Three Times to 3000RPM to reset ECU

8. Check Idle should be at 850-950 RPM I Think so :roll:

 

 

NOTES & SPECS

-------------------------------------------------------

Ignition Timing Temp Sensor Off (2000-2500RPM)

Firing Order 1 - 3 - 4 – 2

CO content0.7 0.4 volume %

Engine oil temperature 80 C (176 F) minimum (Coolant temperature sensor DISCONNECTED)

 

Do NOT hit the rotor, there is danger of damaging the rotor shaft or bearing.

Check and Replace distributor O-ring replace if damaged(DONT FORGET MAKE SOME MARKS TOO)

 

Check ECU Computer hose is 1 meter(3Feet) Long!(Critical NO CLIPPING, TRIMMING OR EXTENDING, Must Replace with Black&Yellow VW OEM Part)

 

Check ISV Is working (Must Humm I THINK)

 

Check Vaccum Hoses

 

Check Battery Voltage Level Or Charge

 

Check OR Adjust Idle speed adjustment screw (-Left, +Right)

 

Check Oxygen sensor heater/probe harness connector

 

Check And Replace Air filter

 

Check to make sure Fuel Pump is relay OK(#80) and Fuse #18, Located in the relay box under the drivers feet at the TOP and make sure fuel pump turns ON at Engine Starting Time

 

Check or Replace ECU Relay

 

Checking/ Adjusting Accelerator cable and Switchs

 

Check Hall sender (loosen rubber boot on Hall sender connector (on ignition distributor) with the harness connector from fuel injector wiring disconnected

for any broken loose wires

 

Check Sparkplugs Wires Resistance (600 to 1400 Ohms)

 

Check rotor carbon brush with spring

 

Sparkplugs

-------------------

Bosch Park # W6DPO

Gap 0.6 to 0.7 mm

(0.024 to 0.028 in.)

Torque @ 20 Nm (15 ft lb)

 

 

Crankshaft Bolt (Center Bolt with 12 point star)

===============

Always Replace (CHEAP TO REPLACE OR PAY 1000X more later)

Torque at 90nm (66flbs) and 1 additional 1/2 turn

Apply some Threadlock before bolting on

Use a Torque Wrench

Don't sure a Impact Wrench to bolt on