willg95vr6 0 Posted May 3, 2006 hey i have trying to find past topics and no luck, but does anyone no how difficult it is to change the above and are there any instructions or advise they can give cheers Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 It's fairly straight forward. Which one are you changing? If you're doing all 3, undo the front and rear ones' top bolt/nuts and jack the engine up using the gearbox mount as a pivot point. Swap those two out (engine needs raising a good 6" or so) and then attack the gearbox one, using the front two as the pivot. The crank pulley is almost touching the chassis leg when the clearance height is right! You need to undo the power steering hose clamp that's attached the gearbox before you start. The box one is slightly more involved due to the support strap but it's pretty self explanatory when you're down there. I personally recommend Vibratechnics mounts, with competition grade at the front and fast road grade for the rear and gearbox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr Forinor 0 Posted May 3, 2006 With the mounts that you recommend Kev, how much more vibration (and any other negative points) is there compared to OE? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
willg95vr6 0 Posted May 3, 2006 ok cheers for the advise, i will give it a go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 With the mounts that you recommend Kev, how much more vibration (and any other negative points) is there compared to OE? No extra vibration at all that I can detect, just a very slight increase in diff whine volume. What the OE mounts are good at is smothering a poorly running engine. if the engine is running a bit off with uprated mounts, you will get a slight bit of extra vibration, but nothing drastic, they are rubber after all. Poly mounts all round would shake your teeth out. Poly at the front is OK-ish though as the x-member is isolated with soft rubber bushes. What you notice with the Vibras is a superior gear change (especially when side shifting from 4th to 2nd) and complete stability during cornering and acceleration. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr Forinor 0 Posted May 3, 2006 Excellent, thanks man :-) And where do you recommend buying them from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 Stealth seem good on prices for them. The front one is the pricey one for some reason, but I think all 3 are about £200 IIRC. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr Forinor 0 Posted May 3, 2006 If my sums are correct, they seem to add up to more than that, but I will give Stealth a call and see what they say. Anyone else any ideas of who have good prices for these mounts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 From memory, the front one is about £110, the rear one is £60ish and the gearbox one around £45, so not a huge amount over £200. It's been a while since I've actually looked at a stealth invoice, I just fold it up and shove it in my pocket, and pay! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr Forinor 0 Posted May 3, 2006 Lol, hopefully I'll be at a stage (soon enough) where money shouldnt bother me too much, but right now, it still does bother me, lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 Didn't mean that how it sounded. It bothers me too, but I'd rather not know, if you know what I mean? :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr Forinor 0 Posted May 3, 2006 I know exactly what you mean :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted May 3, 2006 I recommend the Vibratechnics all day long and have replaced my front and back with fast road items. The gear change has improved a lot as kev explained! The only thing is I still feel that the gear change could be a bit better. I find it a little knotchy from first to second or third to second say! I have been playing around with the cable adjustment at the gearbox end a few times now but seems to be happy were it was. This knotchyness does tend to appear more when decelerating and pulling away,so I thought this has something to do with that heavy lump moving around even with the uprated mounts. My question is could this have anything to do with the gearstick alignment inside the car as the stick isn't exactly central ? Anyone cheers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 What mount have you got on the gearbox? I had similar issues with 1st to second with a normal rubber mount, despite my shift being really good compared to some other VR's I've driven, but the VT box mount totally solved it. Full bore changes from 1st to second, no problem :-) How is your clutch? Some times the clutch can stick on it's splines a bit which makes changes in the lower gears slightly reluctant. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted May 3, 2006 I have replaced the gearbox one with a aftermarket solid rubber mount ,but not uprated at all really. The clutch feels fine but not sure of the history of when it was changed etc. The cars done 124,000 mls now so I'm assuming its been changed in the past? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 Same here, had the GSF diesel one on the box which went a bit soft after a couple of years. The VT one is a little stiffer and totally sorts the shift. 4th and 3rd down to second is smooth as you like, no reluctance at all. Could be on the orginal clutch at 124,000 as VR clutches are really tough..... did mine at 100K and there was still half the friction lining left! It was just really heavy and juddery, so out it came. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted May 3, 2006 The clutch isn't heavy at all, but I didn't realise that they last that well! Perhaps I should fork out for a box VT and have a full set ! Do you know if the gear lever adjustment from inside the car affects the change as described in the Bentley manual? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 3, 2006 I would, they seem to work well as a threesome! So long as the alignment holes in the floor for the shifter are aligned, it's pretty much all you can do there. You can get a VAG gearstick alignment tool though, but I've never seen anyone use it! It's usually just done by feel at the gearbox end with the cable adjusters. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted May 3, 2006 So there is only one adjustment cable at the gearbox right? The 13mm nut pivot adjusting thingermajig! Ill have a look at these alignment holes you talk of ,and another look in the manual. Cheers! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted May 4, 2006 I have to say "a little notchy getting into 2nd" at 124k miles on a gearbox that's delivering 180+ lbft isn't too surprising ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted May 4, 2006 H8RRA has a brand new rear engine VF-engineering mount for floggage! Note Not the gearbox one! Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rado16v 0 Posted May 4, 2006 Anyone got experience of the VF-engineering front one? Got a mate to pick one up when he comes down from the states for hols. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted May 4, 2006 Yip i have had one fittet for a couple of years and i would say that it does everything that it says on the box and i don't think you can go past one, Five star rating. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites