Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 9, 2006 It's the mount that's altered not the gearstick Kev. The reverse gate is elongated to allow the stick to still be pressed down. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ben16v 0 Posted June 9, 2006 was interested in tese a while ago, but i`d heard a few bad things about them, if theres proper positive feedback i might be interested ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 9, 2006 If you specify what percentage reduction you would like then it can be supplied at approx that range. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ben16v 0 Posted June 9, 2006 TBH i dont really know :oops: just would like a shorter distance i`d be happy to go on recommendation (remember `ive got a vulvar :rofl:) valver, valver, valver!!!!! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 9, 2006 Yeah i hear those vulvas are a c**t to drive! :lol: Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billinjah 0 Posted June 9, 2006 mmm might have to get you to do mine ill be in touch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H8RRA 0 Posted June 10, 2006 It's the mount that's altered not the gearstick Kev. The reverse gate is elongated to allow the stick to still be pressed down. Chris you should know as well as anyone, chris - the gearstick is modded. Anyway - being really DUMB! I've just realised I've got a ""spare" corrado :) at the side of the house so i have an exchange unit ready to go. What you'll all have to bear in mind here is that you need to get your sticks out (in best finbarr saunders style ;) ) which involved grinding/filing the front lip off the aperture where the stick lives. This is to allow the central pin to travel forward. To sort these out as there's some interest and i'm off for 2 weeks & got the time to do them - i'll have to turn then round sharpish so i'll be relying on people sending them back damn sharp. so whoever can donate/send sticks, i'll have one to send out the same day. what i'll do is try ans sort one out this weekend so you know exactle what your getting. for anyone who wants a reference as to what they're like - you're welcome to come to see mine or get references from chris nosky, chilly or andy hoyle who has my original red/burgundy svr i'll try and get some pics sorted today but as far as I can tell, the people who are interested and who i'll give first dibs subject to their confirmation are azzturbo h3rapor dec wires nickvrstorm? g the g ben16v billinjah i think its only fair to say that if someone wants a stcik spplied and wishes to send their stick back afterwards, i'll ask you to pay £100 and i'll send the modded stick back with £50 the same day. this is of course to ensure the exchange stick is sent back sharpish as others are waiting and to ensure the exchange stick does come back. if everyone lets me know if they want one, it'll probably be best to start a new thread - i'm off to start welding and choping now then ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 10, 2006 I'd have thought £10-20 quid but £50 extra's a bit rich is it not? just being realistic and saying what others are probs thinking. Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H8RRA 0 Posted June 10, 2006 I'd have thought £10-20 quid but £50 extra's a bit rich is it not? just being realistic and saying what others are probs thinking. Chris it'll be coming back the same day for gawds sake - if i don't get the exchange item back, i'm left with a car with no gearstick. the easiest way is to just send a stick for modding and then theres no hassle. if i had a spare stick it wouldn't be a problem....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris VR6nos 0 Posted June 10, 2006 well if you follow your own thread, there's a lad offering you one for that purpose! Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H8RRA 0 Posted June 12, 2006 ............ i`d be interested in a shift H8RRA, i`ll get a spare unit sorted then give you a pm mate :thumbleft: gaz - if you can sort this out sharpish, i'll abviously "do you a deal" for beinmg so helpful and progress with other kits for anyoine else on exhchange - sooner the better whilst i'm on holibobs before i start my new job.... ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gaz the geezer 0 Posted June 12, 2006 gaz - if you can sort this out sharpish, i'll abviously "do you a deal" for beinmg so helpful pm sent :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 12, 2006 grinding? what's all this then? Or is it just to actually get the stick out of the surround (so you are just nothing the enclosure)? gimme a pic and i'll warm up the dremmel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H8RRA 0 Posted June 12, 2006 see pic below - the main pin has to be removed in the directiopn of the arrow - the lip highlighted has to be removed to allow the forward movement. so, the precedure is, remove plastics, remove pin rtaining bolt and other 2 retaining bolts, grind lip, extract pin, remove small spring pin that retains pushrods to base of lever and extract whole assy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 12, 2006 do i need to remove the exhaust or this? May be interested Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 12, 2006 i'm out of my depth ;) edit: whats the exhaust gotta do with the price of fish? :-/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 12, 2006 i thought you had to remove the exhaust to get to the linkage. had to do it for the mk2 golf. im sure the rado is the same cus i think i saw it in the passat manual (similar set up to the rado) might be wrong, thats why im asking ']['H3R4POR you seem to be on every thread i read. how come? trying to beat a record? lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 12, 2006 I'll have one mate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 12, 2006 my work is very interesting, and very invloved :( the forum is a release, I have to use it as they won't let me have a pillow to scream into at work :( I thought you are simply lifting the mech out through the gator suround? not taking it out from underneither (where the exhaust is) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 12, 2006 Thats certainly what it looks like from the pics..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gaz the geezer 0 Posted June 12, 2006 I'll have one mate. i`ve already got you covered mate :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H8RRA 0 Posted June 12, 2006 no-ones mentioned underneath - you can sit in your drivers seat all comfy and warm and do this - the picture previous is what you see below your gator - the only difficult bit is getting the pin out as indicated - i've given a description earlier - stop flapping everyone :wink: - thats all thats required so, the precedure is, remove plastics, remove pin retaining bolt and other 2 retaining bolts, grind lip, extract pin, remove small spring pin that retains pushrods to base of lever and extract whole assy. if you lift your gator, its all pretty obvious really Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
quicky1980 0 Posted June 12, 2006 is that why you grind that item? so you can lift it out? Im sure the manual said it was done from underneath. oh well soon find out when some one puts me straight what work do you do? I noticed your bored vids Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H8RRA 0 Posted June 12, 2006 is that why you grind that item? so you can lift it out? Im sure the manual said it was done from underneath. oh well soon find out when some one puts me straight what work do you do? I noticed your bored vids quicky, matey - are you pulling my leg here? trust me - its as i've stated - and we're not talking about the gear linkage, just the gearstick - which is totally, wholly, completely, exclusively and specifically inside the car - below that leathery, scrotum-type cover - aptly below the cars knob ;) the big yellow arrow on the pic indicates the path of the large pin that retains the whole mechanism - that lip thats highlighted is in the way so has to move Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
double-6s 0 Posted June 12, 2006 quality answer. i can imagine basil faulty delivering that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites