Removing Oil Cooler

[Gregor 0]

I finally got around to replacing the aged and cracked gaskets on my oil cooler, well almost. I'm stuck midway through job and was hoping to get some advice.

 

I was able to get the hoses and cap off the cooler. However the shaft that goes through the center of the cooler is stuck in the block. The shaft has a couple holes in it that are most likely for oil distribution, but also seem to double as place to get ahold of the threaded shaft. I was able to insert a very long screw driver in it, but the shaft is so tight that the screwdriver just bends when I yank on it. I tried applying some PB blast to the threads and soak overnight, but its still stuck. I assume its threaded and the threads run the normal direction (not backwards).

 

Is there some special tool or techique to getting that shaft dislodged from the block? Thanks!

 

1992 VR6

[Dutch24V 0]

Mine came of very easily so guess it's just stuck. Try whacking it with a hammer a couple of times :)

 

Dutch

[ReekieVR 0]

I am about to do this job Gregor. Dont suppose you could take a couple of pix of it and a quick 'how to' ?

[Gregor 0]

I am about to do this job Gregor. Dont suppose you could take a couple of pix of it and a quick 'how to' ?

 

So far I'm doing it the hard way so I can tell you what not to do. I read the shop manual and made a gaffaw sound after reading that the bumper had to come off. I didn't know about the trick of removing the subframe. I used a super long breaker bar to get the cap off which worked fine. To get the hoses off, I got on top of the engine, reached around sideways and yanked. Lots of bloody knuckles and odd looks from the neihbors. I'll try to get some pics, but without the subframe or bumper off, it may be very hard to see.

[Gregor 0]

Mine came of very easily so guess it's just stuck. Try whacking it with a hammer a couple of times :)

 

Dutch

 

Ok, just to clarify, the metal pipe that the cooler sits on IS threaded into the block and uses a normal thread direction, correct?

[Dutch24V 0]

Yep, a normal thread into the block that un-screws the normal way.

 

...but, the cap and bolt are/should be fixed together as one. I have tried to seperate the two but it is not possible so think yours has broken.

 

Your bolt must be well stuck for that to happen so not sure how your going to remove tbh.

 

Give it a really good soak in WD-40, leave it over night, give it a few hardish taps of a metal hammer and then see if it'll budge.

 

Other than that I think it'll be bumber of so you have better access to get something else into those holes other than a screwdriver.

 

Dutch

[Gregor 0]

I am about to do this job Gregor. Dont suppose you could take a couple of pix of it and a quick 'how to' ?

 

Well, it’s not much of a “how too”, but here how I did it. First off, it’s far easier to remove the lower frame support and access it from below. You'll need to support the engine when dropping the support, so plan on placing an jack under the tranny area.

 

The manual says to remove the front bumper and by far this gives the best access. If you haven't replaced any of the cooling system, like the odd plastic tube, the thermostat housing and the small hoses that connect to the cooler, I'd recommend just taking off the bumper and do a complete job. VW still hasn't figured out water cooling as this is clearly the weakest system in my Corrado as well as my old Scirocco.

 

I was lazy and had all those parts replaced about 2 years ago, so I opted to try it without removing anything. The two hoses were tough. As they were recently replaced, they had new clamps, the screw type so I was able to undo them with a small screwdriver. The compression type would be next to impossible without a little better access.

 

I opted to remove the hose that connects to the plastic pipe at the plastic pipe instead of the cooler just because it was easier to access. For the other hose, I couldn’t find the other end so I removed it at the cooler. It was at an odd angle and very much stuck. I ended up putting my left knee on the top of the engine and reaching down backwards with my right hand. A very awkward position for sure and no matter how I did it, I managed to bang up and bloody my knuckles.

 

I was able to get the cap off with a torque wrench. There was enough clearance to the end of the wrench between the intake and the radiator. Once I got the cap off, I was stuck. The oil cooler wouldn’t come off the pipe because of a flange at the end of the pipe and the pipe wouldn’t come out either. I had started with a long screw driver, putting it through the holes and pulling. It didn’t move. I moved to a hex wrench setting in a deep socket attached to a long extension. When I started to bend the hex wrench I knew I was in trouble and should stop before I did any damage.

 

Here is the cooler stuck in the block

 

After wondering through a couple hardware stores looking for some other tool options, the solution hit me like a ton of bricks. Why not use two jam nuts on the exposed end of the pipe. It was hard to find the right size jam nut and I ended up using 2, ¾ inch jam nuts. I tightened the first one on to about 100 lbs. The next one I dabbed some grease on the inside face of the second nut so it would spin more freely against the first nut allowing the tightest possible fit. The second one went on at about 100 lbs as well using the same torque wrench that I used to get the cap off. I got lucky and both nuts lined up allowing me to cover both nuts with the socket. I gave it a gentle tug and out it came right out.

 

Here's the cooler, pipe, cap and jam nuts I used to get the pipe out.

 

 

View of the block where the cooler was.

 

 

 

Here's a shot of all the parts cleaned up with new seals installed and ready for reassembly. Notice the inner seal has 2 small loops that hold onto the cooler. That makes it a lot easier to re-install. The old seal didn't have these loops and I'm not sure how you'd get the assembly installed with inner seal in the right place.

 

14 year old rubber! Hey, I thought oil was supposed to rejuvenate rubber.

 

Getting it re-assembled was a bit tricky as I was lining up the pipe with threads with the cooler attached all with one hand! This would be impossible without the little loops that hold the inner seal in place. This part would much easier if you had the subframe removed and could use two hands.

 

After the install was completed I replaced the coolant as most of drained out and topped off the oil as there some lost. No leaks so far and except for the weeping head gasket and valve cover gasket, its leak free. The sad news is that after all is sad and done, it now sounds like the water pump bearings are starting to go. Not sure if it was related to the work performed, or I never noticed the loud sound. I do hope it’s the water pump since they is about the easiest part to replace on that side of the engine.

[andy35554 0]

Hiya, another excellent thread that has helped me avoid paying a garage. I noticed recently that oil was on the drive, after a good look around the engine for the source it became apparent it was the inner "O" ring on the oil cooler. Having read the thread i bought the seals from the stealers £5.44 and proceeded to undo the front of the cooler with a 1" spanner - slightly too big but did the job. From under the car i could remove the cover and then pull the cooler away from the engine, renew the inner o ring after wiping the area down, replace the outer and put it all back together. The inner shaft of the cooler came off with the front cover on mine so no struggling, just awkward to get to. No removing the bumper etc! Anyway i now have a sealed oil cooler and no leak which i am well pleased with. I did not remove any of the coolant hoses. One was split a while ago which i had to replace as it was dripping everywhere, what a sod to get off that was, and i now have a scar as a reminder!

Thanks for this info guys

[vr6paul 0]

hi everyone

sorry for resurrecting such and old thread but have been searching about oil coolers as i think this may be where i am getting and occaisional drip of oil. changed thermostat at weekend so feeling confident!

I am planning on replacing the seals which i think are part numbers 038117070 and the same number ending in A.

Can anyone confirm these part numbers?

Also this thread has a good description of replacing seals - basically sounds like removing cover and then cooler - refit with new seals.

I read somewhere that there is no need to drop oil as it is above sump.

What about coolant? should i drop this out the car and then remove the hoses to the cooler before i do anythng else? or can i do all the above with hoses on?

thanks again for any info

[vr6paul 0]

any ideas on the above questions guys??

[andy35554 0]

any ideas on the above questions guys??

 

vr6 paul,, if you go to the stealers they can get the part numbers on the screen.. i know this will mean 2 trips but i dont have the part numbers

regarding coolant i didnt drain mine, see my comments just beofre your post

Andy

[RW1 0]

Did this job today. Pretty straight foward. Big thanks to the guys for putting up the info on here. :notworthy:

It helped a lot in the planning.

 

A few comments to help others......

 

- Undid the power steering pipe clip near the sump and tied back the pipe back out of the way. Same with the engine speed sender cable. All clear to get in on the clamp bolt and the oil cooler.

 

- Left the engine for a week, the oil that came out today was about half a mug full. Undid the clamp cap bolt a little and let the remaing oil drop into the tray below. When it finished dripping, just wiped the oil cooler and engine block clean of oil. No more oil dribbled out.

 

- Used a 24mm flat combi ring/open spanner on the oil cooler clamp bolt. Plenty of room and leverage from the spanner length available.

 

- Oil cooler pushed upward and outwards allowing enough room to clean the engine block mating surface and the oil cooler surfaces.

 

- Tightening torque for the oil cooler clamp bolt is 25Nm, 18 lbf ft.

 

Final oil leak of three sorted after 14 years! :D (others being the 2nd rubber sump gasket replaced by a flat hard gasket/shorter sump bolts and the upper & lower timing chain cases tighten together.)

 

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