Mr Mokaliscious 0 Posted November 10, 2006 I'm relatively new to the forum and would really appreciate any tips and advice when buying a G60. When buying my mk2 valver it wasn't difficult, just looked out for the usual.....! As this is my 1st car with a supercharger I want to be 100% confident what to look out for, also I'm wanting the best performance (obviously :wink: ) so I assume a stage4 supercharger will be best!!??! Sorry for being 'the new guy' but I thought if ever there was a place to get good honest advice it would be here. Without a doubt I will be buying my 1st rado from this site and there are quite a few V.nice examples, however once again I require the knowledge before I make any mistakes!! Any comments are much appreciated. GREAT FORUM BY THE WAY :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted November 10, 2006 hi mate. welcome the one thing to be sure of is a recent service. Darren@gwerks is the favourite. jabba were the past masters but seem to have let work slip on G60. ask for a certificate to show rebuild times or if not then after you have bought then send it in for a check over and build if needed. the rest is 8v GTi really. so expect valve stem seals and broken water flanges. G60's kill engine monuts too so it may be worth budgeting a solid front monut in. my personal opinion on performance is on a good charger a 65mm pulley, chip and maybe bigger injectors with a front mount and a decent exhaust will give you what you need for bout 500 quid. the next 2-3k will get aboout 50hp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Mokaliscious 0 Posted November 10, 2006 Niceone mate all points taken into consideration. I was aware a recent service is a must however I didnt know about the front mounts. I'll bare that in mind!! Cheers GazzaG60 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iow_corrado_g60 0 Posted November 10, 2006 how much you looking to spend chap also there is a buying guide in the wiki which is on the forum main page down the left hand side caled knowledge base go in there have a butchers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Mokaliscious 0 Posted November 10, 2006 No less than £3k, from what i've seen I should get a decent, well looked after motor. I'll take a look at that knowledge base too!!! Thanks mate Nice driving by the way :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iow_corrado_g60 0 Posted November 10, 2006 only reason i say that is nick is selling a neat g60 for around £3k check it out! cheers Andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blue_Joe 0 Posted November 10, 2006 G60's kill engine monuts too so it may be worth budgeting a solid front monut in. Please don't buy a SOLID front engine mount, I've just removed mine. Speak to G-Werks about their uprated front mounts instead!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubburke 0 Posted November 10, 2006 G60's kill engine monuts too so it may be worth budgeting a solid front monut in. Please don't buy a SOLID front engine mount, I've just removed mine. Speak to G-Werks about their uprated front mounts instead!!!!! why not? Are the corrado front mounts the same as the mk2 gti/G60? if so how about a vibratech one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iow_corrado_g60 0 Posted November 10, 2006 sam y are these so bad in your opinion! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Mokaliscious 0 Posted November 10, 2006 Andy Where can I see Nicks G60?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2006 My solid front engine mount was fine. The bar the engine mount bolts to is actually rubber mounted to the chassis anyway so it's not like having a truly solid front mount. I'd look out for good charger history and personally wouldn't get a charger with a 65mm pulley. Put it this way, the service interval for a blower with a 68mm pulley is 40K miles. The service interval for a charger with a 65mm pulley is 20K miles. Read into that what you will. I know many will disagree but at £800 a pop, you don't want to be shelling out for a new charger. If you like a car with a Jabba charger, budget in for it to be cracked open by someone who knows what they're doing (G-Werks or JMR) as they're famous for inconsistent porting and not replacing the exhaust end oil seals. I'd look out for a sound shell above all. Engine and suspension are generally easily replaced as they're bolt on but bodywork is more costly to rectify. Walk away if you see rust, Corrado's were very well built in their day and rust shouldn't be an issue. Also, body parts are quite pricey, especially if you go VAG. As you know, reds tend to fade but being a VW enthusiast anyway you probably know that! Common problems with Corrados are as follows: > Rear beam bushes go hard and will need replacing if this hasn't been done recently. (with VAG item, not poly cr@p) > Sunroofs can fail as the mechanisn is quite delicate (they weren't actually made by VW). Too much grease is a bad thing with 'Rado sunroofs. > Wing mount intercoolers can leak as they're stuck right down in front of the wheel arch and attract lots of salt and grime. They also have plastic end "tanks" which can leak. > The spoilers will often only work on the button- more often that not it's down to stereo wiring. These cars are likley to have been through a few owners by now, each fitting their own stereos so the wiring can often be a bit of a snakes wedding. > Wiring on 15 year old cars can be a bit dodgy with moisture working its way up insulation. Check all electrics. > Pay attention to the gearbox too and make sure shifts are smooth. The G60's cable change is hardly the last word in precision but it shouldn't be difficult to locate gears. The cables can go out of kilter making shifting tricky but this can be solved by using a special VAG tool to realign it all. Some and not all G60 'boxes were fitted with a shift weight, this drastically improved shift quality. They like clutches too so check if it's been replaced, preferably with a VR clutch. > The 8v engine is damn strong, all it needs is regular oil changes and it's likley to be OK. Bear in mind the frequency of previous oil changes as the blower shares its oil supply with the engine so long intervals will accelerate supercharger wear. Obviously cambelt interval is 60K like most cars and the tensioner should be replaced at the same time. > G60's run hot so if you're looking at a tweaked one an aftermarket oil cooler shows a careful owner. The standard oil "cooler" is complete c0ck and can corrode to such an extent that the water jacket fails and causes coolant and oil to mix which is a Bad Thing. Signs of this starting to happen are a white crusty residue where the oil filter bolts on. (water escaping and exaporating quickly) > Rear calipers sieze frequently and are best replaced with Mk 3 or 4 Golf GTi calipers which bolt straight on. A sign of this is a weak handbrake. > When driving the car make sure the car pulls strongly from low revs cleanly thorughout the rev range. It runs out of puff at about 5-5.5K RPM as the head struggles to flow at those revs but it should pull in a typically supercharger-esqu linear fashion. Test the boost using this guide (taken from somewhere on this forum): How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) Rambo 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu Smile Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended. Can't think of anything esle :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Mokaliscious 0 Posted November 10, 2006 Niceone Neil, sounds like you really know what you're talking about. I'll make sure I save this post somehow. Take it easy Adam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil VR6 0 Posted November 10, 2006 "Sounds" probably being the operative word ;) Most of it's based on experience and what happened to my G60! :D Have a nice weekend :drinking: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
