filski 0 Posted November 25, 2006 hi..just spent ages trying to put in new brake pads at the back. managed to get everything off and loose fine, got old pads out and put new in - but am stuck when i need to put the calliper back on as i cannot get the piston to go back in :mad: . i have undone the bleed nipple, opened the fluid resevior and followed instructions, but as i do not have any swanky tools i'm having trouble pushing the piston back in to get enough clearance for the new fat pads. any home-made devices / tips on how i can od this? :?: :lol: many ta's. f. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 25, 2006 It needs to be wound back! You can try doing it by hand or with circlip pliers but I would advise a trip to Halfords or GSF to get the proper tool! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted November 27, 2006 As Supercharged said, get the proper tool. About £20 from Halfords. Don' t be tempted to try gripping the piston with a plumber's wrench or similar; you will tear the dust seal and gouge the chrome plating on the piston. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted November 27, 2006 Yeah - I still can't believe the Haynes manual even suggests using circlip pliers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jslootweg 0 Posted November 27, 2006 Yep, get the brake caliper pison wind back tool, once you have one of those its easy peasy to move that piston:) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StuartFZR400 0 Posted November 27, 2006 Does anyone know the correct direction to turn it to wind inward? I tried this a couple months back and it seemed to do nothing in either direction, then all of a sudden went back in. Not pushing my luck, I just popped it on there and then. I only ask, as Im taking them off again this weekend... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
saysomestuff 0 Posted November 27, 2006 clockwise = inwards IIRC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted November 27, 2006 Yes, it's a conventional thread so turn the T-bar clockwise and the thread of the tool will turn and push the piston back in. It can be quite difficult at first but once it starts to turn it becomes easier. Take care not to strain the flexible hose whilst wrestling with the caliper Just bear in mind that the bellows-like rubber dust seal might stick to the piston and turn with it, eventually tearing the seal. If it shows signs of doing so STOP and gently push the piston out a bit with the brake pedal. This will give you access so that you can very carefully free the bellows seal from the locating groove in the piston with a non metallic and blunt instrument. Once it is free and allows the piston to turn independently, repeat the winding in process. Re-assemble pads and caliper onto the hub, ideally using new bolts for the caliper because they have locking compound on the threads. Check to ensure that the guide pins, to which the small 13mm head bolts attach, are free to slide. Give the brake pedal 20 or 30 pushes to re-set the pads, then reconnect the handbrake cable and it's done. If you are not changing the discs there may be some rubbing of the pads against the rusty circumference of the disc for a while, but that should soon settle down. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
filski 0 Posted November 28, 2006 so got the tool and life is simple again.:) it was tough at first but once turning it went in easy - i've done lots of calipers on bikes before where you just release the pressure by the nipple and push the pistons back in - never heard of having to turn them, hence why i got stuck. all good now and new pads on all 4 wheels. thanks for the advice. F. :lol: 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
