Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Deluk

rocko prices? what to look out for when buying

Recommended Posts

it looks like a mk2 rocko G reg, if its cheep might buy it , what do they go for and what to look out for? wheres the rust? if any .

 

I dont know what engine size it is only seen it driving passed it , looks tidy :D

Deluk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only prob with rust on my old rocco was on the inner sills just beside where the rear beam is bolted on....nothing major though.

 

Nice basic car, so easy to work on yourself..and the parts are all very cheap compared to C prices!

 

I picked up a cheap on with no tax or MOT on it of Ebay for £50...spent the next few months rebuilding a fair bit of it at a cost of about £850 :oops: Then took it for a 2500 mile rally trip around Europe with pretty much nothing going wrong with it the entire time I was driving it!

 

Great little car! Only sold it as I could afford to buy, service tax and insure a 1.9TDi for the cost of insuring the Rocco alone!!!...so I really couldn't justify it anymore :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

was hoping you would reply first :) , so the insrance is high , just want a nice winter driver and its got steels on it perfick for winter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:lol:

 

I thought the insurance was very high for what the car was!....quoted £750 compared to £360 for the Corrado with all the mods decalred :shock: :? I'm sure it was just some weird insurance company glitch, so check out some prices for yourself. But a few places were quoting me silly prices, so I just took the boring route and bought a diesel :roll:

 

Mine was a 1.6Gt with a weber carb fitted, and it was great fun to drive! Ridiculously nippy little car! Very light, and handling was excellent once lowered and on decent shocks! Made the Corrado feel like a big heavy tank of a car in comparrison :shock:

 

Thing to watch out for is the brakes! They're not up to much when new apparently, so only get worse with age! I replaced all the pads/shoes disks and cylinders etc just to be sure. :wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After conquering the higest road in Europe!

 

PICT0305.jpg

 

Quick trip (or two) around the Monaco track!

 

PICT0320.jpg

 

And coming down the Col De Turini

 

DSC00083.jpg

 

Times like these, I wish I hadn't sold it now! :roll: :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A good one: upward £600-£700, though I've seen minty ones go for less on occasion. Prices seem to have flattened out over the last 12-18 months and £200 bargains are getting thin on the ground.

 

A grand should get you a very nice example. Personally, I'd go for an injection engine over a carb-ed model, but fun can be had with either.

 

Stuff to look for:

 

http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/as/as_lookfor.htm

http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/as/as_mark2.htm

 

 

High idle on carb-ed models - can be just a few quid to sort (waxstat adjustment) up to £££ if you replace the Pierburg with new. Weber replacement carb is a common option.

 

Rust on door edges. May also be hidden on wheel arches behind the body kit and plastic arch liners. Checking the seams along the lower part of the sill can give you a reasonable indication.

 

Fuel filler pipe corrosion. Common problem and it's an awkward part to get hold of. Rust falls into the tank. Worst case symptoms: engine cuts out after a few miles motoring. If you can get a look at the inside of the tank or fuel filter all the better - shine a torch in. Reach behind the arch and feel around for corrosion on the pipe. Dip a magnet in on a string and see what comes out.

 

Bulkhead where the clutch cable goes through is often prone to failure and should have a reinforcement plate fitted - check for splits/corrosion and/or poor welding. The clutch is normally very firm, but should not 'grate' underfoot.

 

Rot around rear strut towers (MOT failure).

 

Other than that, the usual things to look for on a 20 year old car. Brake and fuel lines properly intact, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pretty much all said by MusicMan there.

 

The Mk2s were actually quite well rust-proofed, after the rather disastrous results with the Mk1 Rocco.

 

Check around the window seams, too, as I have come across cases where the bottom corners even of the side windows have started to rot. If caught early, still easy to repair, as e.g. side window seals are unlike on the C not glued in and hence easy to remove :-)

 

Do check around the attachment points of the rear axle (the 4 nuts and their studs in particular, as the area around them tends to want to go, if the underseal has not been cared for).

 

Definitely treat a 8V Rocco to a lower strut brace (all A1-chassis cars benefit enormously from a lower strut brace).

 

Other than that, as my predecessors have already said, lovely cars, fast, handle very well in tight cornering, and easy to work on, not to mention, parts are a lot cheaper than C parts. Shame that some of those aspects went missing in the design of the C ...

 

Tempest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...